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170 gasser ? |
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10878 |
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Topic: 170 gasser ?Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 9:17pm |
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My 170 gas has puzzled me. Repaired replaced alternator. Repaired voltage regulator harness. Replaced voltage regulator. Worked great. No problems. A couple months later, will not click or try to turn engine over. Would not jump across post to energize solenoid. What could cause the drain on battery? Could new regulator be stuck and drain it? Thanks, Tracy
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 89375 |
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 10:48pm |
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your going to have to run a few tests.. Battery could be bad.. alternator could have internal short... voltage regulator could have contact STUCK and being grounded... and then any of the wires between them could have a problem...
I would start with a fully charged battery.. disconnect the + cable and let tractor set for a couple days.. reconnect and see if battery went dead on its own, or has full charge... Get a amp meter in the line and see what is being drawn out of battery when setting with the key off....... if battery is good, start looking at the alternator / regulator / or even the starter motor... Is any of them feel WARM to the touch ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10878 |
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 11:35pm |
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Steve, battery is almost new. Alternator checked good. I put a new regulator on it, but I wouldn't swear it is good. Ain't like the old Neihoffs . My meter was dead today, low battery. I will charge up the battery and test from there. Thanks, Tracy
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1205 |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 12:14am |
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Pull one of the battery cables off in the dark and slightly touch it to the post you pulled. If there’s an any slight spark there’s a draw. You can tell by the size of spark how bad it’s drawing.
Newer vehicles have a draw all the time (that’s why they don’t sit as long with a charge). I don’t think alternators are supposed to have a draw… I will start pulling wires and check for spark until the spark goes away and chances are that circuit is possibly the problem. |
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54766 |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 4:26am |
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Never pull wires off of a running engine (alternator equipped). It's a good way to blow the diodes...
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Gary Burnett
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3141 |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 7:31am |
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I had about the same issue with my Oliver 1550 gas,regulator was the problem as they are pretty much junk these days.A 1 wire alternator from DB Electrical fixed the problem.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22374 |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 7:43am |
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There are "modern" regulators for those old Delcotron alternators, that don't have breaker points inside to stick and run the battery down. They look the same but are electronic on the inside. A nice upgrade and it still looks original. I'm pretty sure if the regulator points stick when shutting the engine OFF, if you notice (which none of us do), the ammeter will show a slight discharge, and not return to true zero.
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1205 |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 9:12am |
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Only do that with the engine shut down. |
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3
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RedHeeler79
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Joined: 09 Sep 2023 Location: NE Kansas Points: 213 |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 9:31am |
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An easier method than looking for a spark when touching battery cable to post…. Disconnect the ground cable, and hook a test light between the ground cable end and the negative battery terminal (assuming negative ground). If there’s a draw, the test light will illuminate, and the brightness will give you an idea of how strong the draw is. You can leave it hooked up this way and disconnect components or pull fuses one at a time until the test light goes out. Easy way to find a draw without a multi-meter.
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Tracy Martin TN
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 2:22pm |
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I checked the voltage this morning, 5.34 volts. I forgot to mention earlier, I had Hannah pull me a ways with the truck trying to start it. Never got a hit or pop. Would that voltage allow a spark, or was it too weak? Going to charge up my battery and see from there. Thanks, Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54766 |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 3:33pm |
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I'm pretty sure that voltage is called, in technical terms, deader than a peanut fart...
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1205 |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 11:50pm |
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From experience all my 12v coils has a minimum of 9.5 volt to run. |
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10878 |
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Posted: 17 hours 31 minutes ago at 6:02pm |
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I charged the battery up. Only shown 11.74 volts on my meter. Hooked it up to tractor, tried starting it, only would buzz the solenoid. Put jumper cables on it from truck, and it started. Pulled the battery out and going to have it checked out. During it running, it showed no charge at ammeter. Unpluged the voltage regulator and re pluged it, still no change. Turned on lights and shows no charge. Voltage regulator is gray in color lid, riveted to base. What couls still be my problem? Any help appreciated. Tracy
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 1502 |
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Posted: 16 hours 39 minutes ago at 6:54pm |
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Hmmm... even with a bad battery the alternator should still attempt to put some charge current into it. Worst case scenario is that you now may have not only a bad battery but also a bad alternator and a bad regulator. If it were mine I would test all three before replacing anything again. This is one of those chicken or egg situations where it is difficult to ascertain what failed first. Best wishes
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plummerscarin
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Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 4078 |
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Posted: 16 hours 12 minutes ago at 7:21pm |
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I agree the battery is toast
![]() You know what the voltage is not running. With the tractor running, disregard the gauge on the tractor and take reading with your voltmeter. Should be higher than your static (no pun intended) reading. A load test on the battery may indicate a bad cell |
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10878 |
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Posted: 13 hours 46 minutes ago at 9:47pm |
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I will take the battery to Oreilly's where it was bought. See what is up with it. I don't know how to test the alternator or regulator. I just think it is odd this all was working when I parked the tractor. Thanks, Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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plummerscarin
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Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 4078 |
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Posted: 13 hours 17 minutes ago at 10:16pm |
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I don't know about yours, mine has a GM alternator on it. I read the numbers stamped into it and traced it to a 70 Chevelle application. That is what I told the counter guy at O'Reilly's when I took it in to have them test it. I don't tell it's on a tractor cuz they wont touch it. Since you're going there for the battery, why not have them test alternator as well? That is of course if you have a GM style.
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1205 |
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Posted: 13 hours 12 minutes ago at 10:21pm |
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Oreilly’s should be able to test the alternator if you pull it off the tractor.
It’s probably a Delco 10si alternator… Edited by 55allis - 13 hours 11 minutes ago at 10:22pm |
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7581 |
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Posted: 3 hours 16 minutes ago at 8:17am |
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Check your ground strap. When I got my 8030 last year, it would drain 2 brand new batteries in a week just sitting in the barn! The braided ground strap did have some green corrosion on it. I put a new ground strap on and the problem was solved. So, I would say to check your ground strap and where it grounds to the chassis for corrosion.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22374 |
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Posted: 3 hours 9 minutes ago at 8:24am |
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Back in 1979 (sad to think I know what year it was) the dealership I worked at had a trade-in D-17 S3 on the lot that the battery would go dead in about a week. It didn't take too long to find it using the simple but effective 12V test light as the ground connection procedure. There was green corrosion build-up on the backside of the ammeter across the posts to the body. One new ammeter and clean up the mess and the problem was solved.
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