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2900 question

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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Nov 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 2900 question
    Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 6:55pm

Are the sleeves in this engine (in my one-ninety XT diesel) supposed to have 1 or 2 O rings on them. My #2 sleeve was leaking anti-freeze into the oil, so the mechanic at the shop where I have it at pulled that one. It has 2 O ring grooves, but only one O ring, an orange one in the bottom groove. I called a long time allis mech that I know, and he thought that they should have black O rings in the top groove, and the orange ones in the bottom. Any thoughts on this topic? If it is supposed to have rings in both grooves, then that's probably why it took to leaking?  Thanks, Darrel

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Hurst View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 6:59pm
2 o rings, orange on bottom, black on top.  Probably had 2, but the other one deteriorated and broke apart.  I think my sleeves had 2 rings of leak stop when I took my engine apart to rebuild it...

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 7:06pm
Here's a picture of a  new sleeve, note that it is upside down in the picture:

1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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Jack(Ky) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jack(Ky) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 7:24pm
I am trying to buy a 7020 which I think has this same engine in it. It has water in the oil and that is probabaly where it is coming from. Good info.JP
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 7:28pm
injector tubes in the head are also a possibility on 7000, 7010, 7020, and 8010, as well as some combines. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 7:41pm
What Ed said.  One of those stupid copper sleeves was the reason I tore my 7000's engine down...  Any time you have a head off of a 301 or 200 diesel with copper sleeves, get it pressure checked for leakage around the injector sleeves!

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 8:36pm
thanks for the info, guys. I'm really in a bind with this whole situation as to what to do. The engine would of had a lot of life left in it if the sleeve hadn't started leaking. I know that the right thing to do would be to do a complete rebuild, but money is not aundant at the time. It's seems a waste to be replacing parts that haven't got "used up" so to speak, but on the other hand it would be stupid not to replace them while it is apart. If it all comes down to the fact that it got put together last time (before I owned it) wrong, (due to the lack of 1 o ring), it would be pathetic, but kind of water under the bridge now. Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 8:41pm
If you take some pictures of the parts, some of the guys on here may be able to give you an honest opinion of how worn out things are.  It doesn't take too much being worn out to get to the point where you go on and buy the kit, however... Head gasket kit alone for these engines is over $100...

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 9:42pm
Thanks, Hurst. I've pretty well made up my mind to at least do sleeves, pistons, and rod bearings. Going beyond that and pulling the engine completely out and doing the head and all is what is questionable. A couple questions that just came up are: the copper sleeves that Ed brought up where he mentions the  7000 on up, do they pertain to my 190 XT as well? and how is it with changing rod bolts, I know it goes without saying on anything 426 based, but should I change them on my 2900, too. My local dealer told me that for my serial # engine, they can't even get new rod bolts because there is an old style rod and a new style rod, and by my serial # it has the old ones which take a rod bolt that they can't get from agco, and the newer bolts won't work with old rods. If that makes any sense at all. Darrel
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 10:20pm
Cut a oring grove between the two that are already there and use another black oring whether you use old or new sleeves. Make sure you clean the oring area of block until the sleeves will drop in without orings and check for erosion in block.
  The 190xt did not use the copper sleeves like 7000 and up.
  As far as I know new 301 rod bolts will fit all 301 rods. Not as importen to replace as the 426.    MACK 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 6:33am
I would re-seal it. New agco orings, a gasket set and rings. It prolly wont work enough years to justify all new parts. Someone used cheap orings is my guess. Mack, I was referring to the post from jack/ky about a 7020, and copper tubes. good luck! Ed.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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JPG AUSTRALIA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPG AUSTRALIA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 7:32am
Yep I'd do like ed says ,but mark the sleaves and put them back in a quarter turn to where they were before.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 8:32am
Also, if you do new rings, check that ring landings in the piston to make sure that the gap is within spec and make sure you don't have a ridge at the top of the sleeve after honing.  If it was running find before and the ring gap is in spec, I would consider just reusing old rings, as they are worn to the bore and may actually seal better than new rings if the bore is out of round.  As for the rod bolts, they changed to a 12point flanged bolt that is a stronger grade, and older style rods can be updated to the new style bolts with some machining (I forget what exactly it entails, but it was somewhat spelled out in my 7000's service manual in the engine section, even though all 7000s had the new style rods as far as I know...).  I was told by several allis guys that replacing rod bolts was not something that was required on the 301.  However, that was for the newer style rod bolts, so I'm not sure this still applies to the older rod bolts or not?  Just from watching these forums over the years, it sure doesn't seem that the 301s have much of a tendency to throw rods out the side of the block, but I'm sure some will disagree with me on this. 

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 8:59am
I would never use old worn rings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 12:50pm
The only way to fix the problem is to rebore bottom of the block put a sleeve in and rebore. The block is rusted away and new o rings will hold for awhile but the block will leak.I do 3-4 blocksa year for a dealer this will stop the leaking. Everthing else is bandaid fix.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 9:00pm
If it's just pitting and a majority of the surface is still in tact, a careful epoxy job will solve the problem of the o rings not having a good surface to seal against.  Basically you just need to fill in the cavitation pits and then sand everything down smooth to the good metal.  I guess it really all depends on how badly the block is corroded in the bottom bore.

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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Beirnesy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Beirnesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2019 at 7:14pm
When installing 301 sleeves we are supposed to use vegetable oil on sleeve O-rings, wife has sunflower oil in the house will that work also. 
1969 220,1967 190DXT,1968 190DXT, LGT's 710,,716
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2019 at 7:17pm
Should be fine. Wipe the lower bore of the block with your finger coated with your sunflower oil too.

Edited by DrAllis - 18 May 2019 at 7:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Beirnesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2019 at 8:44pm
Thanks for the prompt reply Dr. Allis  

Edited by Beirnesy - 18 May 2019 at 8:44pm
1969 220,1967 190DXT,1968 190DXT, LGT's 710,,716
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2019 at 11:29pm
When my 3406 Cat started putting coolant in the oil,it was basically missing the o-rings on 1&6.They got better the closer to the middle  with 3&4 looking good. It had been running for a while with TOO MUCH advance. It pinged just cruising down the road. I think the predetonation vibrated the sleeves so much that it destroyed the o-rings. They were all there before because I installed them. Pistons had some nasty looking heat cracks on top.
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