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abbaschild95 
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Joined: 13 Feb 2011
Location: Colorado
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 Topic: tapping out dents?
Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:46pm |
when you tap dents out of a hood you dont heat it do you? i dont want to warp anything. do you just go at it as is?? thanks!
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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acd21man
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Joined: 07 Jan 2010
Location: tn
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Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 10:04pm |
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i think u can take bags of sand on one side and peck the other side (i may be wrong tho lol)
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2 wd 45,2 D-17 diesel/gas 3 pt, 220,d21, 4020,2 4430s used daily http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCudh8Xz9_rZHhUC3YNozupw
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abbaschild95
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Location: Colorado
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Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 10:14pm |
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hmmm interesting.... more i think about it the more i think this is a dumb question... hahaha no heat.... i dont think sometimes...
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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Dusty MI
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Location: Charlotte, Mi
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 5:55am |
Old body shop guys used a tool called a dolly to hold on the other side of what ever they were trying to bump out. That art is all but lost.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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JoeO(CMO)
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Location: Cent Missouri
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 6:05am |
On many occasions I have used a block of wood shaped(usually with the grinder and belt sander)to fit an area, the tapping with the different body hammers and dollies to bring back the surface to where it was, and sometimes, I have been known to take a few 2X's along with BFH and beat the heck out of grills, hoods and fenders (no heat) to get them close before sending to the salvage. HTH
Edited by JoeO(CMO) - 01 Mar 2011 at 6:09am
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 6:09am |
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All depends on how deep the dint is. A small dint you can place the dolly under the dint and tap it back even as long as you don't stretch the metal. For a larger dint the metal has already been stretched so you would off dolly it. that is place the dolly off center of the dint and tap the dint down as you work the dolly around the outside of the dint working out as the dint goes down and the metal thickens back. Not a wham bam thank you mamm kinda deal.
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DonDittmar
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 6:32am |
 Dick L wrote:
All depends on how deep the dint is. A small dint you can place the dolly under the dint and tap it back even as long as you don't stretch the metal. For a larger dint the metal has already been stretched so you would off dolly it. that is place the dolly off center of the dint and tap the dint down as you work the dolly around the outside of the dint working out as the dint goes down and the metal thickens back. Not a wham bam thank you mamm kinda deal. |
Exactally. I was told you have to "ask"the sheet metal to move, not force it.
I have used heat on real deep dents, just have to be careful not to warp it. I usually use a propane torch or the small welding tip on the ox/acy torch.
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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"
1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 6:55am |
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Like Dick says is how I've been told how to tap dents out. Start at the edges and work your way in. If it's not possible to get the dent all the way out tapping, get as much out as you can and use filler to finish it out.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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KenBWisc
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 9:56am |
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I'm taking a night class on body work. Another excellent tool is called the Bull's Eye pick. It's shaped like an overgrown set of ice or log tongs. It allows you to work from the back side while standing in the front and precisely know where the force your applying is. Above comments about offsetting the dolly are correct although when picking out a small dent in the edge of the material you may need to bump directly on the dolly. Heat is used to shrink the metal when stretched by the damage. Doesn't always work and is a bit of an art. On 20-24 gauge material it takes a low flame. Many body experts use a jeweler's torch. Start working the flame in a circle, rather quickly, around the edge of the stretch then bring it into the center leaving it there only until red hot but not molten. Remove the flame and lay a wet rag on the spot. Repeat until you get results or give up and use Bondo.
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'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 10:17am |
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I had a pretty nasty looking dent in the CA hood. I used the SIL's cheap hammer and dolly set to work it out. I put the dolly under the dent and hammered on the dented side around the edges. It seemed wrong to start with but after taking a good amount of time and just tapping away, the dent is gone and the hood looks really good again.
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TexasAllis
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Texas
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 12:05pm |
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j.w.freck
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 8:15pm |
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have any of you gurus ever used dry ice to remove dents on sheet metal.how does it work?i have seen it but did not pay attention...
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monitordoc
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 9:22pm |
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I HAVE USED A HEAT GUN OR THE HOT JULY SUN TO PREHEAT A DENT AND THEN DRY ICE . SOME DENTS POP OUT NICE AND SOME NOT AT ALL. LOTS OF HAMMER AND DOLLY WORK---TAKES TIME, BUT WORKS GOOD. I ALSO DON'T USE BONDO MUCH , I HAVE BEEN LEADING TO FFINISH THE REPAIR.
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abbaschild95
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 10:59pm |
will the really little ones sand out with the sandable primer?? or does it need to be pretty much smooth to start with?
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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Denis in MI
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 11:01pm |
It takes alot of primer and sanding to get any kind of a dent out your best bet is to use a little body filler or some glazing putty.
Just my opinion,
Denis
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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abbaschild95
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 11:15pm |
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alright. would you recommend a hard plastic squigee or a rubber one?
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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