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JimWenigOH 
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Location: NC Ohio
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 Topic: 8050 Vibration Damper
Posted: 11 Oct 2025 at 8:51pm |
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I noticed a slight wobble of the crankshaft pulley while the engine was running. Looking closer I noticed the neoprene on the damper was cracked and not spaced evenly around the circumference. Didn't look like there was any recent movement, but don't think this is proper. I tried doing a search for this subject and came up empty. I seem to remember this topic discussed on here before and believe there was a place out in the NW USA that rebuilds dampers. Would appreciate thoughts and comments on this.
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IBWD MIke
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Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 6:07am |
Jim, it has been discussed. Seems like not that long ago. If memory serves a dampener from a Detroit diesel of some sort might work?
Edited by IBWD MIke - 12 Oct 2025 at 6:11am
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 7:40am |
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Mike's link discusses the fluid dampeners used on the higher horsepower engines. I'm not sure if the guy in Oregon?? is still rebuilding the rubber dampeners. Dale manufacturing, I think.
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Mikez
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Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 7:56am |
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Right Jim is referring to the rubber in the crank pulley
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 9:51am |
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Dr Allis had one rebuilt not so long ago.....
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DrAllis
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Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 10:50am |
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Yes, and I had it done by Dale Mfg in Salem, Oregon. Address is 3425 Fairhaven Ave NE zip 97301. Email: langsatherdavid@gmail.com It is my understanding that he has officially retired now, but check that out for yourself. A & I products has new ones with p/n A-74037126.
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ecosse23
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Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 1:40pm |
Purely out of curiosity I had a google search, and turned up a firm in California -
http://damperdoctor.com/ - which lists custom rebuilding of harmonic balancers, including for heavy equipment. May be worth asking them, just in case they can help?
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JimWenigOH
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Posted: 13 Oct 2025 at 6:29am |
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Thank you all for the helpful information. Will do some research on repair or replacement, and update with results. In reading the Service Manual for the tractor, it states that in order to replace this crankshaft pulley, "....Support front end of tractor and remove front support and front axle assembly." Mine has FWA. Really, you have to do all this to remove the pulley?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 13 Oct 2025 at 7:49am |
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You will be pulling from 3 (of 6) 7/16" NC holes in the center hub. Loosen the crank nose bolt a couple of turns so the washer behind the bolt head is obviously loose. Make yourself a 1/2" thick plate (or thicker) with three holes to line up with the holes you are going to pull from. Use grade 8 hardware and run a tap thru the holes to get good connection depth. Mine is a 3/4" plate with a 1 inch hole in the center. I have a 1 inch NF nut welded to the inside of the plate and use a 1 inch NF Gr8 bolt for the pusher screw. You can use a short porto-power ram too if you desire. Sometimes takes 10 tons. Radiator shroud and fan must be removed to gain access. Front end stays put, but it's a tight area for sure.
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JimWenigOH
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Posted: 13 Oct 2025 at 8:36pm |
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Doctor, thanks for that great time saver. I have to wonder if A-C had an ACT tool for that or did every dealer just make their own?
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orangereborn
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Posted: 14 Oct 2025 at 12:07am |
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I will jump in here about the damper doctor. I tried in the last year to contact about a damper and did not have any luck.. coupler of years ago I did the same about a fluid damper with the same results.. so I was not sure of their existence. The site looked active...Let us know if it was just timing...Thanks...Dale
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DrAllis
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Posted: 14 Oct 2025 at 5:59am |
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What I have described allows for removal in chassis. Any other type of puller needs the front of the engine exposed to have room for pulley removal.
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JimWenigOH
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Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 11:48am |
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Thanks DrAllis, I'll be making one of those puller plates myself. I ended up ordering an A&I pulley from a local dealer for $475, A&I on ebay was $461, Damper Doctor rebuild was $600 plus shipping, Dale Mfg. is closed down. Once I receive the new pulley, I'll use it to get measurements for the puller plate and holes. DrAllis, I have a machine shop that can laser cut me a 1" thick plate. If I have the plate threaded in the center for the 1"NF pusher bolt, that would gain me another 3/4" at least to work with. Since I don't have mine apart yet, do you think that extra 3/4" would help any vs welding a nut to the plate as far as space goes?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 12:47pm |
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With the proper length 7/16" gr 8 pulling bolts, I've never had an issue with the 1 inch NF nut under the plate. The pulley only has to move 1/16" as it is a tapered nose on the crank. Also, any mild steel plate threads are not nearly as robust as a regulation 1 inch gr 8 nut for thread strength.
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JimWenigOH
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Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 5:35pm |
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Looks like I'll be able to make it myself then. Didn't realize this was a tapered fit. Thanks again for your help!
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 11:45pm |
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Once it goes "POP" it's off....you can begin to think it's not coming off...don't soil your britches when it happens.
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