185 hard starting.

When the tractor sits overnight or a few days she’s a bear to start. Doesn’t matter if it’s 80 degrees or 40 degrees. Once she starts there is no problem the rest of the day. It’s the initial start that’s the problem. In the process of rebuilding priming hand pump and also cleaned the tank,changed filter, and pulled screen out of sediment bowl. When I repair priming pump I’ll double check for air leaks and if that doesn’t work I’ll look into the injector pump. And advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks jay. No inline electric pump on it. Bought this tractor several months ago and it’s a solid tractor but didn’t realize it had some of these problems. Trying to work the bugs out of it. I’m figuring the guy I bought it off of worked on it or had somebody work on it and didn’t really know what they where doing. Just a guess tho.

I don't remember, but do these models have a anti drain back valve on the filter? If not perhaps you could find someone who can read something besides the computer and find a filter that is dimensionally the same, same threads, etc. and put one of those on. While not  exactly the way to do things it will work. Actually it doesn't have to be the same size, just the seals need to be close and the threads have to be the same.

Thanks for all the helpful info. Will be tearing into it later this week. I’ll keep an update on what I find. Thanks again for all the helpful info.

Took starter off and got it rebuilt and also made sure batteries where charged up good. She turns over like a champ. No issues on that end.

I was just thinking that a fuel filter with a anti-drain back would let him know that the problem is after the filter. Just a thought.

It will smoke a lot. Timing could be any issue. Right now I’m fixing all the leaks on the fuel system.

Should he need a manifold heater when it's 80 degrees out?

Shouldn't need it at 80 degrees but, this would help in the diagnosis. Owners manual will refer to 50 degrees and lower. Make sure the manifold it HOT around the heater after activating it for 60 seconds. Just because you hear it "click" doesn't mean it's working.

If the rest of the system is airtight the sediment bowl won't fill up until you loosen the bowl a little or bleed the system.

If it is a roosa master pump...pretty sure it would be on a 185, over time the rubber seals will start to disintegrate and small, really small chunks will start plugging the small orfices and pre-screen. Might be a possibility? I have seen that happen on Dad's 180 and my D21. Always want to make sure they don't sit without running them every few weeks...I learned the hard way...twice...with my D21. So far I have not had issues with my 200 and 7040, but they get used a bit more. Just a suggestion...good luck and hopefully it's not a $500 rebuild on a pump.