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FREEDGUY 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
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 Topic: Briggs Engine ??
Posted: 09 Dec 2021 at 6:06pm |
A friend of mine has a Huskvarna (sp) riding mower , model 2348LS, that can only be started by removing 1 of the plugs prior to cranking and then re-installing the plug/wire while the engine is running  . He recently went to a "dealership" that pedals some parts for this manufacturer for the mower deck drive belt and was telling the counter guy the starting scenario and a "tech" said that the cam was bad  ?? The engine runs perfectly once running according to the owner, so he's confused on why a cam replacement is the fix  ? Thanks
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 09 Dec 2021 at 6:31pm |
yeesh that makes ZERO sense..but a lot of CENTS to the 'dealer' for the 'repair' 2348LS sounds like a 23HP with 48" deck. If so B&S vtwins need to have their valves adjusted (always MORE gap needed),almost yearly. Info is on the web,need a 7/16"open ended and torx key(?).The 'trick is to lift front of rider up high, so oil under the valve covers drains into the block. I let it do that overnight. You 'should' buy 2 new valve cover gaskets, though 'gasket maker' in a tube works fine.Most of the time spent is finding TDC,then a simple adjust for the gap,When happy ,Put valave covers and gaskets on, lower, have a coffee THEN start her up. I do 1-2 a year. The 'signal' that it needs to be done is 'hard starting', 'battery won't spin the engine'....'slooooow turn over'.
Maybe this isn't it, but ther's NO way it needs a camshaft.
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Thad in AR.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Arkansas
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Posted: 09 Dec 2021 at 6:42pm |
 jaybmiller wrote:
yeesh that makes ZERO sense..but a lot of CENTS to the 'dealer' for the 'repair' 2348LS sounds like a 23HP with 48" deck. If so B&S vtwins need to have their valves adjusted (always MORE gap needed),almost yearly. Info is on the web,need a 7/16"open ended and torx key(?).The 'trick is to lift front of rider up high, so oil under the valve covers drains into the block. I let it do that overnight. You 'should' buy 2 new valve cover gaskets, though 'gasket maker' in a tube works fine.Most of the time spent is finding TDC,then a simple adjust for the gap,When happy ,Put valave covers and gaskets on, lower, have a coffee THEN start her up. I do 1-2 a year. The 'signal' that it needs to be done is 'hard starting', 'battery won't spin the engine'....'slooooow turn over'.
Maybe this isn't it, but ther's NO way it needs a camshaft.
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My experience says you’re right on.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Dec 2021 at 7:01pm |
YEP... if it only turns 1/4 turn and STOPS... needs valves adjusted.. Could be too tight OR too loose...They got to be just right to get the proper compression/ timing.
Edited by steve(ill) - 09 Dec 2021 at 7:05pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Dec 2021 at 7:07pm |
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This assumes your battery is not over 6 years old !! ... and the cables are GOOD.
Edited by steve(ill) - 09 Dec 2021 at 7:08pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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HudCo
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Posted: 09 Dec 2021 at 11:03pm |
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check the valve lash first but we have had that engine come throught the shop a few times with a sheared flywheel key and only off just a few degrees also we did have one v twin and single with bad atuomatic compression release wich means you have to replace the cam
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thendrix
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Posted: 10 Dec 2021 at 5:59am |
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We had a Scotts with that vtwin. Had to adjust valves about twice a year here to. Not hard just aggravating
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Tbone95
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Posted: 10 Dec 2021 at 6:36am |
HudCo wrote:
check the valve lash first but we have had that engine come throught the shop a few times with a sheared flywheel key and only off just a few degrees also we did have one v twin and single with bad atuomatic compression release wich means you have to replace the cam |
Removing a plug.....automatic compression release not working.....which is the cam.......INTERESTING. 
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john(MI)
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Posted: 10 Dec 2021 at 7:07am |
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That must be the norm for these days. I've heard of a dozen stories of the cam problem. That made me figure it was just lazy kids telling customers that so they would leave and not come back. Still made me wonder why the cam is going bad. I'm 67 and never heard of this problem before the last couple years.
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Lars(wi)
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Posted: 10 Dec 2021 at 7:31am |
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How far back does this go? I have a Craftsman riding lawn tractor, that starts very hard even with new battery and clean battery contacts. Always have, as long as I’ve had it. Bought used from an Ariens dealer probably 15 years ago. When starting it will turn over about 1/2 a revaluation, then stop, turn key off, then try again, may need to do it 2-3 times before it starts to turn over normal, then start. It is a 2 cylinder, will get the engine model number next week, and report back here.
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Dave H
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Posted: 10 Dec 2021 at 8:37am |
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Lars, if that is an opposed flat head Briggs, I have one doing the exact same thing. I will be pulling the heads and scraping the carbon out. Have done this before. It collects so much carbon due to the head configuration that the compression is raised. Last time (years ago) I did that and it went back to starting like new.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 10 Dec 2021 at 8:47am |
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Lars, mine is a 24 HP V twin about 17 years old... Did EXACTLY what you said... I could rotate the crank just over TDC on once cylinder and then it was good to go... Adjusted the valves and problem solved.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 10 Dec 2021 at 4:10pm |
HudCo wrote:
check the valve lash first but we have had that engine come throught the shop a few times with a sheared flywheel key and only off just a few degrees also we did have one v twin and single with bad atuomatic compression release wich means you have to replace the cam |
With the flywheel being off a "few" degrees, did it run smooth after starting ? Thanks to all of you guys that have replied !!
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DMiller
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Posted: 10 Dec 2021 at 7:29pm |
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Single Cyl Briggs OHV 11-14hp do the same thing. Had three so far two on Snapper Mowers(11hp) and a 14hp at the shop I work, take cover off adjust valves and All is Good Again as allows the Compression release to function. Cams are soft, if run too long as this or do not change oil routinely end up with a bad cam.
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AllisFreak MN
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Posted: 10 Dec 2021 at 8:55pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
This assumes your battery is not over 6 years old !! ... and the cables are GOOD. |
And assuming you don't drive an extended cab short bed pickup.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 12 Dec 2021 at 3:34pm |
DANG them 4 ft Truck Beds !!!!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 12 Dec 2021 at 5:08pm |
Maybe the B/S logo lost its black, and ran into the red? 
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 13 Dec 2021 at 6:13pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
DANG them 4 ft Truck Beds !!!!
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You would know, I believe that you run one
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 13 Dec 2021 at 6:16pm |
AllisFreak MN wrote:
steve(ill) wrote:
This assumes your battery is not over 6 years old !! ... and the cables are GOOD. |
And assuming you don't drive an extended cab short bed pickup. |
Thanks for a helpful reply Jack Hole  Ride those coat tails !!
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AllisFreak MN
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Posted: 13 Dec 2021 at 6:34pm |
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Sorry, I couldn't resist.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 13 Dec 2021 at 7:26pm |
FreeGas asks for it............. thats why we go along !!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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