large rivet removal question.

Ok guys i have a metallurgy question regarding some rivets i need to remove.  I am salvaging some parts from a 99-04 ford truck to install on my own, specificallly, the rear overload springs as mine does not have them.  The front overload stop bracket (rear spring) is riveted to the frame unlike the rear bracket which is bolted.  I dont want to use a torch for 2 reasons, i dont want to destroy the bracket and its located right next to the fuel tank.  Would i be able to drill the heads on these and then remove with a punch or will they be too hard and eat drillbits?  looks like only other option is some kind of cutting disk on a grinder.  the parts truck is about 30 minutes away and i dont want to have to go back, already been there once.  here is what i need to remove.  trying to figure out a simple and clean way to do this

I have used a cutting disc on an angle grinder and cut an X across the rivet head then use a chisel to cut off the top and punch it out.. That is of course you have the room . Sparks may also be an issue if near the gas tank. Be careful, HTH

Amos wrote: A sharp cold chisel.  We use them to cut rivets on airplanes up to semi trucks here.  You won't believe how easy they cut.

  I wondered about that,  i have some very good large chisels, if i can get in to swing would be the issue.

Tbone95 wrote: Cal, think about it this way.  As a general rule, hardness is metallurgically "resistance to deformation".  Since a rivet works by deforming, it "has" to be relatively soft.  Therefore, will drill, cut with chisel, etc.  Just for any future projects....

  wasnt sure on this application if they were hot rivets or just cold press.  hot would make them hard right?  i was imagining red hot rivets like building on old skyscraper lol

Edited by CAL(KS) - 04 Jun 2019 at 1:10pm

Tbone95 wrote:   I guess I don't know the specifics of that application either, so I guess I probably should just STFU.

  ha!   dont think that is necessary,  i just didnt want to show up with a drill bit and smoke it in 30 seconds if you know what i mean

if you mean a center drill like for a mill machine, no  but my plan was to drill a pilot hole then finish with 3/8 or so.  should remove enough material to punch through or chisel the head off

Edited by CAL(KS) - 04 Jun 2019 at 1:33pm

use the pilot drill as you said, then use your 3/8 drill to get thru the head.. use the cold chisel to break off the "head" of the rivet... Some will poke thru after that, some will be too STIFF... If they don't poke out, drive the cold chisel between the frame and bracket and PRY the bracket off the rivets.......... Personally I use a grinder, but not around a gas tank.

Step drill bit (unibit) drills its own pilot(s).  As others have said, pretty soft stuff.  also, use cutting oil, once you have the bit started.  Normally a grinder or cutting disc is way faster, but it don't look like you got much room, there...

Might be better to get a REAL truck that is capable of doing the job you are wanting to do. Half tons are never built to do much more that get a keg of beer or a few bags of feed. Just look at the data plate in the door to see what your truck is designed for, any more than that is puttin yourself an everyone around you on the road at serious risk. Every day I see overloaded and overworked wanabe trucks doing a job it is truely not up to. DOT cops are getting wise to bumper dragging unsafe landscapers and Harryhomeowners on the nations highways. They are finding it to be an easy revenue stream. All they have to do is look at the weight rating of the tires or the trucks data plate and the big fines begin. I had a neighbor recently get a $2500 overload ticket for crossing a 6000 pound bridge with one scoop of mulch in the bed. Then another $1000 for overloading the rear tires. You are putting everyone’s safety at risk when you do as you please and ignore a winpy daddy’s pretty little trucks limitations.

Glad the job went well for you Cal.