WD 45 3Bolt WFE

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   I first had this issue about 5 years ago and did a patch which is still in place but I don't know how long it's going to last.  Fast forward-the steering arm as it's called is fastened to the "fork shaft" by 2 stud bolts going into the threaded cast iron fork shaft.  Threads in the fork shaft are bad/stripped.  The rear one which does more work is probably worse than the front one.  I haven't torn into it again yet.  When this first happened I cleaned it up, jammed the 2 bolts in tight and used either Locktite or JB Weld and it held the arm snug to the fork shaft.  Now although the rear bolt is or appears to be tight, the steering arm at the rear bolt has dropped a little and is not snug against the fork shaft.  I'm looking for the simplest least labor intensive fix and there may not be one short of finding a better (not stripped) bolster.  Also, I'm guessing the 3 or 4 bolt bolster do not interchange without the plate.  I don't know how heavy the bolster is but it probably requires an engine hoist to get in & out.  Must not be a common thing since I don't ever recall it being discussed here.  It's kind of a b-tch of a place to work.  Last time and would have to do it again, I cribbed the tractor up and chained the front axle so as to not totally wheel it away.  All ideas are welcome.  Thanks for any input.  Was hoping not to have to change out the entire front end.

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Dennis J OPKs Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Overland Park, Points: 536	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dennis J OPKs Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: WD 45 3Bolt WFE Posted: 08 Sep 2020 at 11:55am
	I first had this issue about 5 years ago and did a patch which is still in place but I don't know how long it's going to last. Fast forward-the steering arm as it's called is fastened to the "fork shaft" by 2 stud bolts going into the threaded cast iron fork shaft. Threads in the fork shaft are bad/stripped. The rear one which does more work is probably worse than the front one. I haven't torn into it again yet. When this first happened I cleaned it up, jammed the 2 bolts in tight and used either Locktite or JB Weld and it held the arm snug to the fork shaft. Now although the rear bolt is or appears to be tight, the steering arm at the rear bolt has dropped a little and is not snug against the fork shaft. I'm looking for the simplest least labor intensive fix and there may not be one short of finding a better (not stripped) bolster. Also, I'm guessing the 3 or 4 bolt bolster do not interchange without the plate. I don't know how heavy the bolster is but it probably requires an engine hoist to get in & out. Must not be a common thing since I don't ever recall it being discussed here. It's kind of a b-tch of a place to work. Last time and would have to do it again, I cribbed the tractor up and chained the front axle so as to not totally wheel it away. All ideas are welcome. Thanks for any input. Was hoping not to have to change out the entire front end.

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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22049	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Sep 2020 at 12:19pm
	A nice new thread tap to clean out the holes and two brand new Gr8 bolts the proper length and Loctite them.

Catalinacrasher Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 01 Sep 2020 Location: Mulvane ks Points: 43	Post Options Post Reply Quote Catalinacrasher Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Sep 2020 at 5:34pm
	I just did this

Lonn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29817	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lonn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Sep 2020 at 7:54pm
	Is this underneath the tractor front bolster? I think Drallis has your solution. My WD was busted up like Catalinacrasher's but I just welded back in the bolt holes and redrilled and tapped them. Made the mistake of not using welding rod that was soft so it could be drilled and tapped easily but I got it done. Had to keep cutting the tap off and tapering it. Used up two taps doing it.
	-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot

Dennis J OPKs Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Overland Park, Points: 536	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dennis J OPKs Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Sep 2020 at 9:08pm
	Yes, it is underneath the bolster, the arm to the tie rods, seems like kind of a weak point but hey 60 years + not too bad. Previous owner beefed up the 3 bolt but not to the extent shown here-good job. Seems like to bolt a single front wheel or tricycle for a corn picker would put an awful stress on the fork shaft. I know my Dad did it when switching out for a picker. I'm going to try Dr's fix when I can borrow I think it's a 5/8 tap.