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Welding projects |
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4102 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 07 Nov 2021 at 7:19am |
Had to fire up the welder awhile back, broke a coulter mount plowing. As luck would have it, none of my other plows have that style mount. My concern with welding it was the fatigued area next to the break. I ground it back a long ways in the classic 'V', It welded very nicely. The other project is a bit more of an experiment! Last fall after putting the 16.9X28's on the narrow front, the sub-soiler wouldn't go in the ground to full depth. My idea was to offset the latch eye. Picked up an eye at Hutch, used an old piece of plow frame for the other half. 'V'd them both, preheated and together they went. I'm not sure what the steel in plow frames is but it's pretty hard, the preheating helps with under-bead-cracking. At least I hope it does. Should have time to get this on the soiler today, will give it a try if I do. Ground is really too wet so won't do too much, just see if it works. Edit; As usual pictures are out of order but you get the idea. ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by IBWD MIke - 07 Nov 2021 at 7:20am |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22042 |
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I was in our weld shop one day this week and saw a new sheet of mild steel 4 ft x 8 ft that was 1/4" thick. I said to my welder, that cannot be the correct price written on it, is it ?? He said yes.....$600 bucks !!!! He said it is more than double what it was a little over a year ago. That is not inflation, that is hyper-hyper inflation and I'm afraid of how long this is going to last. Save your old steel !!!
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 88219 |
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very nice weld bead............. preheat sure does wonders on the hard steels.... grind the rust off to CLEAN metal as you did helps a lot... i even wire brush a 1/2 inch PAST where the weld will be so it does not suck any rust into the final weld...again, NICE BEAD.... is that 7018 ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Kenny L. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NEIOWA Points: 1360 |
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Look good Mike
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 5143 |
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Why not just make 2 plates so that everything bolted together?
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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farmboy520 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2016 Location: Beason, IL Points: 553 |
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On the farm: Agco Allis 9695, 7060, 7010, R66, Farmall H, and Farmall F20 (Great Grandpa's)
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4102 |
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Doc, I hear you! I don't scrap anything unless it really is scrap! Steve, it is a mild steel tig rod. Kenny, thanks. Paul, I really don't follow? Farmboy, exactly! I got this thing installed on the soiler today, had to do a little 'fitting', aka grinding, to get it together. Hooked it on the narrow front for a test spin. I love this thing but it is the most cantankerous snap-couple implement ever! Just a pain to get hooked up to. I took some pictures to post but apparently left the camera at the farm. Will try to get them posted tomorrow. As I suspected, It's really to wet to use this thing, ran it some but not working like it should. High point is, now it goes in the ground like it should. Hard as it pulled today, pretty sure if the weld was going to break it would have happened already.
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Ted J ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18943 |
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Looks good Mike. WHY is it so hard to hook up?
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4102 |
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Ted, on other snap-coupler implements the drawbar is right there at the right height. Back into it, snap, hook up the links, and away you go. With the soiler, the eye is on the ground and it's laying on one side. Think I'm going to make some kind of a stand or pair of. It could be supported by rafters with wire possibly. Then if I can just find the right spot in a shed...
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 88219 |
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Mike, i have a couple small "stands" that i use to support the 4x4 truck and equip when jacking them up..... i cut a dozen 2 x 4 about 8 inches long.. stack them like lincoln logs and spike each layer with 16 penny nails to the layer below.. You end up with a BLOCK that is 8 x 8 inches and as tall as you want...... i have a couple that are 14 x 14 base for BIG stuff.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 5143 |
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Take two plates, drill 4 hole that match the eve and implement in a square pattern and then bolt together with the eye above the implement hitch. This would allow everything to be put back original when said implement is use on a tractor with "normal" rear tires.
In my lifetime I've probably welded more miles of bead that many young ones have driven, so I look for other ways to make things that don't destroy original parts.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12225 |
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TIG eh? Those were fantastic looking beads, would have been an accomplishment to be proud of for sure coming off an arc welder. Not saying it couldn't have been, just saying a TIG sure makes a clean weld, and of course you still have to know what you're doing.
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Dakota Dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3971 |
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It should have had a parking stand
There usually lost once the original owner sell it. There should be a picture of it in the operator's manual.i dont have a subsoiler but when I was a kid and we went to get parts at the dealer every piece of equipment that didn't stand on it own had a parking stand. Luckily my loader and mower both came with stands makes hooking Nd unhooking extremely easy. |
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4102 |
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Paul, I saved the original eye, this one is probably from a plow? Steve, thanks for the idea on the stands. I remembered some that I have, came home from work, think I can make them work without much work. Dave, I'll look in the manual, don't remember seeing one in there in the past but...
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4102 |
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Found the camera in the toolbox on the tractor. Some shots of the mod and sitting on stuff to get hooked up. It goes in the ground now! I had taken the weights off for a tractor pull last summer, put one pair back on, not enough. Added about 1000 Lbs. of ballast, much less tire slippage now. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 88219 |
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LOOKS GOOD !!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4102 |
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Thanks Steve.
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8534 |
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Mike,
Your tearing the place up! Looks like the subsoiler is working well. Good welds! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dave (Mid-MI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hemlock, MI Points: 569 |
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I used to struggle when hooking up my #4 subsoiler too, until I read the owners manual. Prop it up vertically with the pull bar on the ground. Back over the subsoiler pull bar until the lift arms are under the couplers. Attach the lift arms and lift the unit off the ground. Grab the subsoiler shank from behind, pull back and align the pull bar eye with the snap coupler bell. Swing the unit forward until the eye snaps in the coupler.
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Stan R ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Location: MA Points: 993 |
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I'm surprised adjusting the top link would have allowed you to get the subsoiler to go full depth.
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4102 |
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Chris, thanks. Dave, correct you are! Right there on page 5, someone probably should have read that darn thing. As to the future, I will be building stands so that you can hook/unhook like any other S/C implement, stay tuned. Supposed to rain quite a bit around here today, probably done using this thing for the year. Try again next fall.
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4102 |
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Well, here is the stands. They came from work, come in on new hoists we put up. Just welded the hold-down straps together. Had to torch the new holes in the angle iron, couldn't get them in my little POS drill press. Mounted and in the shed. Now if I can get the pics in the right order. ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by IBWD MIke - 25 Nov 2021 at 8:51am |
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