Series 3 flexhead on K2

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   Wondering if anyone has put a series 3 flexhead (313) from a F2/3 onto a K2?

My concern isn’t about the hydraulic or electronic side of things.  That’s secondary, my question is actually fitting it onto the combine.

Were they built like earlier models to move the hooks in?  Drive shafting is also a concern. 

We are pretty darn handy with the welder and torch, so that can make just about anything possible, but just wondering if anyone has been through the process.

If I can get it locked onto the combine, and power through the shaft, the rest is down hill.

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67-d10 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 19 Nov 2022 Location: NESD Points: 30	Post Options Post Reply Quote 67-d10 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Series 3 flexhead on K2 Posted: 3 hours 31 minutes ago at 3:05pm
	Wondering if anyone has put a series 3 flexhead (313) from a F2/3 onto a K2? My concern isn’t about the hydraulic or electronic side of things. That’s secondary, my question is actually fitting it onto the combine. Were they built like earlier models to move the hooks in? Drive shafting is also a concern. We are pretty darn handy with the welder and torch, so that can make just about anything possible, but just wondering if anyone has been through the process. If I can get it locked onto the combine, and power through the shaft, the rest is down hill.

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AC7060IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3539	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC7060IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 1 hour 22 minutes ago at 5:14pm
	Centered version 1st. Relocate both of 313’s top pipe hooks & lower wedge hooks inward to align to K/K2 feeder housing. After that’s accomplished, then bolt in 2 custom made side filler sheets (5”?) to each side to enclose F/F2-3 gaps. Header feeder opening should measure same height for both K & F….? F is 10” wider (1 straw walker) than K. 2nd. Lengthen 313’s left side drive shaft. Think that shaft’s outer drive sprocket is probably keyed? Try to Fab-install a short(5-6”?)shaft adapter that may slide over original keyed end (ie original drive sprocket that fits keyed end with a welded black pipe extension to it & then another drive sprocket welded to it other end where it accept K2’s drive chain). This option along with 1st step above renders 313 adaptable/readily swappable between F & K. If extending shaft with more shaft, locate a good non-bearing area before drive sprocket end to cut & lengthen it. Now it’s set for K only though…. Whichever, the drive shaft is not a high rpm shaft so good/decent alignment should suffice? 3rd. Your local combine salvage yard may have the required hydraulic/electrical components from parts combine.(f3/M3/L3?) that could be swapped into K2. OR……. Left-of-center version 1st. Align K’s left side of its feeder housing direct to 313’s top pipe hook & lower wedge hook. Then relocate both of 313’s right hooks (top pipe/lower wedge) to K’s feeder housing’s right side. And then fab/bolt in 10” filler panel to cover F’s gap. Header drive sprocket is ready to chain as is. Done…! Most of header’s weight is on left drive side, so K’s header lift cylinders will probably appreciate being 10” closer to left side? And K’s cab ladder, left wheels, etc should clear cut crop just fine. Only issue(s) would be tire tracking per stalk damage if cut stalks line up with tires(sorghum?)?? Header is 10” offset to right, if that matters? Crop feeding into feeder beater housing should be ok? Just have to try & see. Worst is 1-2 of cross auger’s right side center feed fingers might need to be removed?? Edited by AC7060IL - 21 minutes ago at 6:15pm