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Allis C slower gear needed

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Alex09(WI) View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 10:19pm
I there any way to slow down 1st gear on a C allis? Maybe put CA final drives on? Also I read that during the war 1942, 1943 they had a slower ring/pinion for steel wheels or is this a myth?
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Dakota Dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 3:32am
You would have to put the CA transmition in place of yours. Steel tractors were geared the same as rubber tired ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 6:25am
Put the front wheels on the back and the back wheels on the front.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NICKMI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 7:54am
Another option is a Sherman under drive transmission if you can find one
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Alex09(WI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 11:29pm
Originally posted by Dakota Dave Dakota Dave wrote:

You would have to put the CA transmition in place of yours. Steel tractors were geared the same as rubber tired ones.

I thought that if you used a CA trans with B/C finals the speed would be increased. That is why I thought a C trans with CA finals should make the opposite, slowing the tractor down. I did notice the 1st gear in a CA is 2 mph vs 2.5 mph with the C/B so maybe I will have to use the CA trans and finals.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 6:10am
Wish I could find a Sherman transmission for my C.
Can't fix stupid
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 7:17am
SHAFT ASY. (Incl. PINION - 19T & Item 6) (Prior TR. C-109) (C)
Add to Pick List
702119362SHAFT ASY. (Incl. PINION -15T & Item 6) (TR. C-109 up to C-15714 & only w/Air Tires up to C-23080) (C)
Add to Pick List
702234372SHAFT (Incl. PINION - 12T.) (TR. C-57368 & UP) (Used on C-15714 thru C-23080, W/STEEL WHEELS)


GEAR ASY. (67T.) (B & IB)
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702096492GEAR ASY. (94T.) (C) (Prior to TR. C-109 - See M.N.I.) (Use 2 of 70211935, 1 of 70211936, 70206449, 70206450)
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702119352GEAR ASY. (82T.) (TR. C-109 up to C-15714 W/AIR TIRES up to C-23080) (C)
Add to Pick List
702134152GEAR ASY. (69T.) (Used W/STEEL WHEELS on TR. C-15714 up to C-23080; Used on all TR. C-23080 & up) (C)
Above is list of C  final drive parts
Below is CA parts
SHAFT, w/13T pinion, GEAR, 77T

Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 30 Mar 2016 at 7:18am
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mruhlig77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 7:26am
Is using a G trans also a myth???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 7:27am
By that either C final would be slower than the CA final. So,by my thinking, if you had a CA tranny and the early C finals, PINION - 12T and GEAR ASY. 82T,you would get the slowest speeds.

Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 30 Mar 2016 at 7:34am
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Alex09(WI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 10:20am
thats some food for thought, thanks guys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 1:28pm
Without more part numbers for the final drive housings, there's no proof that the shaft centers are the same distance apart for each set of drop box gears, so its not very likely to be possible to swap final drive gears to slow the tractor. The chances are a little better in the differential, but not guaranteed. For truck final drives it has been possible to get gears with a ratio from about 2.79 to at least 5.4:1 at least for my F150 that was the case. 4.10 vs 3.08 gives it a lot better towing capability with the manual transmission and because it was not getting the engine speed up to good torque territory, the gas mileage didn't change.

I have no proof, but I believe AC would have used relatively stock ring and pinion for the differential, standard auto gear maker parts so others may interchange. Will take taking that assembly apart and measuring the gears and their mountings and finding a hot rod shop with a stock of special gears to try to find a match.

Otherwise for slow speed smaller drive tires will accomplish that at the cost of ground clearance. A hitch dragging on the ground doesn't pull implements very well.

Another way of slowing would be to go to a tracked assembly that uses a much smaller drive drum than the original diameter. However buying new is not cheap. Sold to fit trucks for deep snow travel.
http://www.americantracktruck.com/
https://www.mattracks.com/
http://www.trackvehicletech.com/4x4-vehicle-track-systems.html
And several others. Those with the small driving drums will give the greatest speed reduction, while increasing traction and floatation. Some I saw offered for tractors too but I didn't dig into the details.
http://www.google.com/search?as_q=tracks+for+trucks&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&lr=&cr=&as_qdr=all&as_sitesearch=&as_occt=any&safe=images&as_filetype=&as_rights=

Gerald J.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 7:28pm
If you had the complete final drive units from the early C, you can't get any slower gears other than putting in a CA tranny or an underdive Sherman gearbox without a lot of expense.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dusty MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 9:22pm
Originally posted by mruhlig77 mruhlig77 wrote:

Is using a G trans also a myth???

The G uses the same transmission as the B & C.  Power from the engine on the G goes to the front of the transmission using the shaft & gears that the B & C use to drive their PTO.
The Special Low for the G is in the housing fasten to the front of the transmission housing.
When I got my G it needed a gear. I got one from a salvage yard out of a bin marked for a C.

Dusty
917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 2:36pm
The problem with thinking that a G transmission would slow down an B or C is the extra gear would be located in the rear of  the B&C torque tube where the crossbar for the foot rest is. If you really had to do it, you'd need to fabricate some way to hold the front half and back half of the tractor together. (a redneck with a welder can do almost anything that he sets his mind to, although it may not be pretty) All the normal B&C gears are interchangeable with the G. Anyway you look at it there's no cheap way to slow down a B or C other than smaller rear tires.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 10:28pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

If you had the complete final drive units from the early C, you can't get any slower gears other than putting in a CA tranny or an underdive Sherman gearbox without a lot of expense.

I might be wrong but wouldn't the smallest pinion gear with the largest bull gear give the slowest speed? That would be the post 23080 12/69 gears with a 5.75:1 reduction in speed. Or am I thinking backwards?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 11:23pm
One way to make the C or B go slower is smaller wheels..???
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 12:48am
also idle it down!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 6:26am
Originally posted by Alex09(WI) Alex09(WI) wrote:

Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

If you had the complete final drive units from the early C, you can't get any slower gears other than putting in a CA tranny or an underdive Sherman gearbox without a lot of expense.

I might be wrong but wouldn't the smallest pinion gear with the largest bull gear give the slowest speed? That would be the post 23080 12/69 gears with a 5.75:1 reduction in speed. Or am I thinking backwards?


Yep. I was trying to put the 12 pinion with the 82 bull gear I guess. Shocked
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 9:36am
The pinion with the fewest gear teeth mated with the bull gear with the most teeth will give the slowest ground speed, PROVIDING the teeth are the same pitch AND the shaft centers fit the gear box. There is no guarantee the geer centers are the same for different gear sets and that the gear teeth are the same size for different sets. Three parts have to match, the pinion, the bull gear, and the case.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 9:49pm
The reason I want to slow it down is so I can use bigger tires.  So if I use the later C finals I would have the lowest gearing and If I use a CA trans I could lower first gear even more.
Gerald- I would just swap the whole axle/final assembly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 6:48pm
Alex: From what I read you really just want a CA then, right? There were enough of them made you should be able to find one.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 12:20am
Paul is right. Why mess with a C when there are plenty CAs to be had
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 1:57am
Yes, It certainly seems like that would be the easiest route to go, given that the gearing is the slowest possible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TramwayGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 8:52am
There was only one housing listed for the 'C'. So all the gear combinations would have fit. Those are:

19/94. (Early tractors up to 109). Ratio 4.947
15/82. All tractors 109 to 15714 and air tires only 15714 up to 23080. Ratio 5.467
12/69. Steel wheels only 15714 to 23080 and all tractors after 23080 Ratio 5.75

For what it's worth; the 'B' used a 14/67 combination. Ratio 4.786

All tractors used the same ring and pinion combination.

Since the transmission was possibly made by Clark, perhaps ring and pinions from another brand tractor would fit.

Edited by TramwayGuy - 03 Apr 2016 at 8:53am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sandman2234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2016 at 8:35pm
How about using a D10/D12 torque tube with the 2 speed in it? Oh, and keep the 149 engine too!
David from jax
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