| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
DanielW 
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
Points: 220
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: Gleaner F Serial Number and Carb
Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 12:18pm |
Hi folks,
Getting sick of using my All-Crop 66 and 90. We only do a small amount of grain - only what's required for our cattle: At most 25 acres a year. The 90 is beyond worn out, and the 66 canvases are a real pain with the hay we underseed sending a lot of green material in with the grain and not travelling up the canvases well. Rightly or wrongly, last night I bought a Gleaner F with the 292 at an online auction for $390. Not sure it was a wise move. I only looked at it once briefly in the dark. It seemed ok, stone door and raddle looked good, no rusted out elevator or bin bottoms, seems to have always been stored inside. The main catch: It hasn't ran in 20 years. Which doesn't concern me too much: I have a spare 292 kicking around, and oodles of parts for every Chevy I6 of that era.
Rightly or wrongly, I'd like to drive it home. It's about 60 miles from our farm (which is about as close as I could hope for, as we're not in a farming area). Prices I've got for floating it are over 5X what I've paid for it. I'm going to head out to the auctions site this weekend to pop the carb, fuel pump, and fuel tank off. I'll bring them home, clean them up, and put kits in the carb and fuel pump. I'll then come back with them, a battery, and a pile of fluids and see what happens.
If I can get it running and it seems to be working ok (which I realize is a big 'if'), my only other concern before driving it down the road would be the main and traction drive belts. All belts looked pretty good when I did my hasty look at it, but just in case I'd like to order a set pre-emptively to have on hand. The AGCO parts website lists two sizes of belts, depending on serial number (and the serial number break for the belts is later than the serial number break when they switched from the Buda to the GM engine, so I can't go by that). I asked a guy at the site to see if he could see any markings on the belts, but he couldn't find any. When I go there this weekend, I can do my best to measure them and match them to the appropriate belt-size accordingly. But I'd really like to know the original/stock size.
This is a long-winded way of asking: Where is the serial number located on these combines? I don't want to be searching around it for hours on the weekend trying to find the tag. I'm not planning to order the belts from AGCO (I can get quality Kevlar V-belts from work much cheaper). But if I can find the serial number, I can figure out the AGCO part number for the belts and cross-reference them to their standard V-belt size.
Second question: If anyone happens to know what carb was on these, it would also help me. I'll be able to find out this weekend, but if I knew now I'd get a carb kit on order now, just so it would arrive a few days sooner. It's definitely not the Rochester carb that GM used on the 292 in their cars/trucks. Judging by pictures of the AGCO carb kit (which is ridiculously priced and long-lead at AGCO) I'm almost certain it's a Zenith 28. But if anyone knows for sure, it would be greatly appreciated.
Edited by DanielW - 04 Sep 2025 at 12:25pm
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
DSeries4
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7505
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 3:47pm |
Fs never had a Buda engine. All the gas engines were the GM 292. Getting the fuel system cleaned up will be most important for getting it home. Make sure the tires are good and properly inflated. The hydraulic brakes might be a problem. The cylinders always leak over time and soil the brake shoes, so you might have trouble stopping.
The serial number is below the engine on the left side behind the ladder.
|
|
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
|
Ed (Ont)
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Location: New Lowell, Ont
Points: 1500
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 4:57pm |
Those old Chevy 292's were a tough bird. Hopefully you can get it running! Too bad it's not the Rochester carb.  File your points and set the gap if it's been sitting that long.
Edited by Ed (Ont) - 04 Sep 2025 at 4:59pm
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2221
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 8:53pm |
 DSeries4 wrote:
Fs never had a Buda engine. All the gas engines were the GM 292. Getting the fuel system cleaned up will be most important for getting it home. Make sure the tires are good and properly inflated. The hydraulic brakes might be a problem. The cylinders always leak over time and soil the brake shoes, so you might have trouble stopping.
The serial number is below the engine on the left side behind the ladder. |
They did indeed use the G262 for a while in the Fs before changing to the GM engine. I have come across plenty of the Buda/AC-powered Fs.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2221
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 8:56pm |
Depending on how nasty the gas tank is, you might think about a boat tank. Someone on the forum recommended that to me when I was getting everything in order to drive my CII home. I pulled off the original tank and put the boat tank in place, and it worked great. Then I got the original tank cleaned up down on the ground and reinstalled before its first harvest.
I don't remember off the top of my head where the SN tag is on an F (I have mostly focused on As/Cs) but I thought it was on the LH side like the As/Cs. If not, it is at least in a fairly obvious spot on the outside of the combine.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8628
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 9:09pm |
|
Yes on the 262 gas in early F's. Ser on plate riveted to left side near rear ladder. Jack up rear wheels and spin them. See how dry they sound and if loose brgs. Not a project for the shoulder on the drive.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 04 Sep 2025 at 9:12pm
|
|
DanielW
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
Points: 220
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Sep 2025 at 8:51am |
Thanks kindly folks. Went there last night and brought the carb home. It's a Zenith 28 (or rather, 228) as I guessed, and I have a kit on order. New fuel pump on the way too, because I've had enough bad experiences with diaphragms going on old mechanical fuel pumps that have sat (a new pump was only $40 on Amazon - hopefully it's not a piece of garbage). I was also thinking of just bringing a boat tank and some jerry cans to get me going in the short-term.
I have a set of the main drive belts on order, but not the traction belt. The traction belt is not a standard V-belt (it has the width of an a E-belt, but the height and cog profile of a DX). I'm hoping the existing one will at least last me until I get home, so I can do some more evaluation of the whole thing before I spend almost as much on the Agco-specific belt as I did on the whole combine.
My other concern is the clutch: After sitting for 20 years, I suspect there's at least some chance it's stuck/frozen. I'm thinking (/hoping) I can access the cover (circled in pic below), to get in there with a pry bar and make sure the friction disc can break free of the flywheel and pressure plate? It's tucked in the previous owner's shed pretty tightly and awkwardly: I wouldn't want to fire it up for the first time and inadvertently drive through the wall of his shed because the clutch was stuck.
Edited by DanielW - 05 Sep 2025 at 8:53am
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21905
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Sep 2025 at 10:00am |
|
Clutch is the pad style. They don't stick. Start with trans in neutral and if you can shift it into gear when you depress the clutch pedal, you are good.
|
|
DanielW
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
Points: 220
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Sep 2025 at 10:22am |
Thanks Dr., I'd never thought of the pad style not sticking. Hopefully I'll be good to go once I get the carb/pump/tank back on and lube up everything.
I decided to buy the main traction belt as well just in case, even though the one on there looks good. Interestingly, I called the local Massey dealer where I get all my Agco-related parts from. They've always been able to get anything Agco-related: Allis, White, Oliver, etc. But apparently they're not allowed to order or sell Gleaner parts. The woman at the parts desk could look it up, but when trying to check warehouse inventory and price she got the error, 'Brand Restriction'. She said that's the case with all Gleaner part numbers: Agco won't let them order them, unless the part happens to be the same as another Agco brand part. Bloody ridiculous. The Massey dealer is 20 minutes away, but the closest Gleaner dealer is three hours away.
So much for trying to support local. I ended up ordering an aftermarket one online for what's probably half the price that the dealer would charge, and it says it'll be here tomorrow. Hard to try and support local when they make it so difficult.
Edited by DanielW - 05 Sep 2025 at 10:23am
|
|
Ed (Ont)
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Location: New Lowell, Ont
Points: 1500
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Sep 2025 at 8:35pm |
|
Yes it is too bad that they won't sell you the parts!! Where are you located?
|
|
DanielW
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
Points: 220
|
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Sep 2025 at 8:41pm |
Ed (Ont) wrote:
Yes it is too bad that they won't sell you the parts!! Where are you located? |
I'm actually split between two places: The main farm up near Haliburton, and the other down near Port Hope. The Gleaner was destined for Haliburton, but I'm now thinking I may drive it to Port Hope first, because it's a slightly shorter drive and I have a better shop there to go over it properly.
|
|
Ed (Ont)
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Location: New Lowell, Ont
Points: 1500
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Sep 2025 at 9:13pm |
Thx. Yes get it to a shop and go thru it as much as you can!
|
|
AC7060IL
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Aug 2012
Location: central IL
Points: 3534
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 hours 26 minutes ago at 8:38pm |
|
DanielW, I doubt it would need a carb kit? It’s carb is very simple, but a good cleaning is probably in order? Maybe snap a photo of carb linkages for reference before unhooking them? Carb has a metal fuel screen/filter located adjacent to incoming fuel line. Use a 13/16” box end wrench to loosen it. Be careful to not lose its thin gasket. Use compressed air & spray lube to clean it out.
Probably pull fuel hose from fuel pump & lower it below tank height to check that gasoline gushes/runs freely from it? If any debris in fuel line, turn off fuel flow from tank by sediment bulb & remove fuel hose from sediment bulb. Clean out fuel hose. Then Hook one end of fuel hose to fuel pump & extend other end into a gasoline filled repurposed 1qt plastic oil bottle. Secure that bottle to the engine air pre filter inlet pipe then remove its cap & place engine fuel hose down inside it, all the way to its bottom.
Hook up a good 12 volt battery & give engine a spin to start.
If it fires & runs, let it warm up & run on that entire 1qt bottle of gas~ about 5-6 mins run time. In first few minutes, check gauges for engine vitals. If all good, try doing an idle to full throttle to note distributors response. If snappy then great. If not snappy, do a timing light check. Book calls for 0 TDC, but these GM’s like 6-8 degrees before TDC. With good timing set, check that timing is advancing to 25-30 degrees at full throttle. If timing isn’t advancing, dig into distributor to free up possibly rusted/corroded spring loaded advancing weights(2). If advancing properly, as distributor rotation increases centrifugal force pushes advance weights outward hence advancing spark.
Edited by AC7060IL - 21 hours 13 minutes ago at 8:51pm
|
|
DanielW
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
Points: 220
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 hours 16 minutes ago at 6:48am |
Thanks kindly. I pulled the carb off late last week, stuck a kit in it at home and put it back on Saturday (it's a Zenith 228 carb as I hoped/guessed). Topped up fluids, set and filed the points, and used a 10 gallon boat tank with new lines and filter instead of the old fuel tank/lines. It fired right up dandy.
I'm still unsure about getting it home. Last week I said I plan to drive it home. I then decided to just get it trucked. But I've now reached out to the guys I usually go to for floating my large equipment, and they can't do it due to the height of their trailers and a few low bridges. Anyone I've found with a lowboy is either not calling me back, or booked out until mid-October. The new property owner is very friendly and doesn't mind me having it there for a couple more weeks, but would like to see it gone by the end of September.
So I'm back to thinking I'll drive it the 60 miles home. That wouldn't worry me on flat land, but this is a pretty hilly route with a few four-way stops on hills. It's usually a pretty quiet route, and when driving other equipment I'm usually able to time myself to arrive at the stops at a good time to just roll through them. But I'd hate for this to be the one time there's a long line of traffic and I'd need to hold myself stopped on a hill, and find I can't. I'm going to replace the two main traction drive belts (and probably the hydraulic pump belt while I'm at it) and I'll make sure the service brake seems to work ok. Hopefully I won't have any issues.
Any other thoughts/advice greatly appreciated.
|
|
