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journeyman 
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Joined: 29 Jul 2018
Location: MINNESOTA
Points: 18
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 Topic: WD HEAD STUDS
Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 1:25pm |
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Ready to install new studs on WD block. Head was completely rebuilt [guides, seats etc]. Regarding installing the studs, is there a torque value on the studs prior to installing the head? Snug? Tight? Loctite or not? Thanks in advance
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bhaynes
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Joined: 23 Feb 2019
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Points: 105
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 1:52pm |
Hey Journeyman,
When I did mine, I cranked them down until I could barely turn them. I backed them off just a tad and then put the manifold on. When tightening the manifold, it will torque the studs down more. Mine have worked great. I didn't have a torque wrench or anything like that.
Just old school way of crank it down tight and then back off a just a tad. :) Hope this helps.
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journeyman
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 2:04pm |
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Sounds like a good plan. Thanks for the response.
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journeyman
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Location: MINNESOTA
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 2:06pm |
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Was actually referring to the studs that hold the head to the block but I believe the same method should work.
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Allis dave
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Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 2:15pm |
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You need to run a tap through the stud holes to clean them out. apply some lubricant to the stud then tighten them finger tight. Torque the 1/2 nuts and stud bolds to 90 ft lbs and the 3/8 stud nuts to 25ft lbs
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Bill_MN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 4:26pm |
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Studs of any kind should be finger tight only, just enough to keep them from turning freely when putting the nut on. The holding power comes from the clamping of the nut on top of the head, once the stud is stretched it is not going to turn out of the block. In fact, if you look at Dart Heads website tech tips, they say the tapered part of the stud where the threads end should never contact the block, there should always be threads remaining outside the hole otherwise the block material can swell and mushroom out from the tightening of the stud. With blind stud holes that are too deep you are supposed to put a small ball bearing in the hole to keep the stud up on its threads, of course not possible with the through holes so very gentle tightening is in order.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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journeyman
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 6:53pm |
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Thanks so much. I do remember putting ARP studs in a powerstroke 6.0 & that is exactly what they called for. Wasn't sure if that was an ARP thing or standard procedure. Thanks again for clearing that up. The WD I am working on was my dad's first tractor, bought new by him in 1949. Since his passing, I have decided to do a complete restoration. This is a fantastic site for help & info. Thanks to all here.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8509
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 8:08pm |
Journeyman, Welcome! Congrats on the family tractor! We would like to see pictures too. Good info on the head studs. I didnt get the message soon enough and tightened my 3/8 studs and the two 1/2 inch studs for the water outlet down into the block at maybe 20 ft lbs (guess). That's the way they are going to be. We will see if it leaks! Sounds like your about the same place I am with my WD series overhaul. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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journeyman
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 8:26pm |
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I have beentaking pictures as I have been going. I will post what I have as soon as I can teach myself to upload them to this site. Restoring this tractors has brought so many fond memories. He should be smiling down on me as he watches his prized tractor resurrected.
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MACK
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019 at 8:47pm |
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Never use hardware nuts on studs! Use good grade 8 nuts or best wheel nuts with tapper up. MACK
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