New Guy debating

Thanks for the reply. Yep got a complete set of cultivators and mounting hardware which look like they have never been used.

It looks like the brakes are just worn out, I tried adjusting them and can get a little pedal on the left side but nothing on the right. So it sounds like the bands are easy to replace, the drums are a lot more work.

I will order some new bands, can you buy these at NAPA or would I need to get from Steiner, etc?

Thanks

Ranse wrote:

Well, she looks good! I'm curious about the cap on the side of the hood. What's it for? I've never seen it before. Good looking Farmall too, did you buy both tractors? The brakes on my B are almost non-existent as well. That's a future project, one of thousands I need to get to.

The Farmall I actually took in trade.

I don't know a whole lot about them, other than yes they are dual fuel. You're supposed to start the engine on gas from the little tank, then switch over to kerosene (main tank) when the engine warms up. Unless it's been overhauled and gas pistons installed, the pistons will be a bit shorter and have a dish in them (kinda like an Allis power crater piston, but not as extreme). On a good day you'll have about 90 lbs compression, which I've heard is good for a kerosene engine. I put taller gas pistons in mine (since I only run gas) and raised the compression to 115 lbs, and I can tell there's a little power increase.

The engine serial number is located to the rear of the air cleaner, where the engine bolts to the torque tube. May be kinda hard to read, but should start with either a "BE" (most likely) or "CE" and end with a "K". The "AM" number on the right side of the block you saw is the casting number. the last two digits of that string of numbers indicates the year it was cast, but it's still a code. It will be a number like 12, or 13, etc. I can't remember what numbers line up to which years, but someone here will know.

couldn't decide on an Allis or a Farmall so ya bought both...lol. nice machine. when I pulled the final drives on my d14 (have to pull them to work on brakes on a d14) I just chained them to the trusses of the garage roof. when putting them back on I used a heavy duty ratched strap on the axle tube close to the end and one on the other side close to the final drive. that way if I needed to raise or lower it a little to get it to line up I could just give it a couple cranks on the ratchet strap.

Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers

If the brake drums are in good shape and you only replace the brake bands, make sure you clean out the housing really good. This makes getting the new band in a lot easier.

I made a tool from a piece of flat stock to scrape all the junk out of the housing. There's a a hole in the bottom of the housing where debris can fall out. Compressed air or a shop vac will help.

New brake bands from Steiner.

Careful cleaning out the housings. Those old brakes most likely contain asbestos. Nice tractors!

In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D

	This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
	The Forum	Parts and Services	Unofficial Allis Store	Tractor Shows	Serial Numbers	History