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acplowboy45 
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Joined: 09 May 2013
Location: connersville IN
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 Topic: 200 tie rod question
Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 11:44pm |
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On the tie rod is the nuts suppose to be on the top or bottom that closest to the spindle. Same goes for the one underneath the the tractor. Reason why I'm asking this is I just bought 2 new ones and I'm having one heck of a time getting them to stay I've tighten them as tight as one can go without breaking the bolt and still have a tendency to move alittle. I have them set in those notches on the tie rod.
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LionelinKY
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Radcliff,KY
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 1:55am |
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Every one I've seen, the nuts are on the bottom on both ends. They should be castle nuts with cotter pins through them so that they don't come apart once installed. If you have tightened the nuts to the end of the threads and still have some up/down play, then there is an issue with the tie rods (aftermarket??) either not having threaded the bolt far enough or made the bolt too long to begin with. You should be ok to add a washer before the nut as long as you can still get the cotter pin installed correctly through the bolt AND castle nut.
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"My name is Lionel and I'm an Allisoholic"
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 7:44am |
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Find old tie rods and take clamps off them and install on new ones. MACK
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IBWD MIke
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Location: Newton Ia.
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 8:16am |
 MACK wrote:
Find old tie rods and take clamps off them and install on new ones. MACK |
Couple of random thoughts on this. I have had trouble getting the tow-in to stay put on Dad's 185 and my D-17. Both have new aftermarket tie-rods. Got so fed up with the 185 I resorted to welding them. First time I had to reset the 17 they got welded too. This works, just real unhandy if you want to change tread spacing.
I have kept the original clamps off of all the ones I have replaced and intend to double clamp in the future. I think the new tubes will need split a little farther to make the double clamp set-up work.
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LionelinKY
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 8:19am |
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I was confused at first. I thought you were talking about the ends. Now, I realize that you were talking about the tie rod length adjustment. I've heard there is an issue with the new clamps on aftermarket tie rods not holding. I hope they fix that by the time I buy a set for the 190XT since the old tie rods don't have clamps anymore because they were welded solid years ago.
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"My name is Lionel and I'm an Allisoholic"
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DanWi
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: wttn
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 10:11am |
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On my 190 and 200 still original tie rods spindle end nut on the bottom center under tractor nut on top so you can grease the joints on the end.
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calico190xt68
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Location: Frankton, IN
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 12:00pm |
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I recently fixed my tie rod on my 190XT and I bought my tie rod from Agco at about twice the price as the aftermarket prices as recommended here on the forum. Everything fit fine and tightened up just fine. I did have to retighten the clamp after my first test. Been good ever since. Agco tie rods have the clamp welded on I believe.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Ky.Allis
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Joined: 31 Jan 2010
Location: Kentucky
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 1:15pm |
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DanWi is correct One nut on top and one on bottom
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acplowboy45
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Location: connersville IN
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 2:04pm |
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Thanks for your replies I bought these tie rods through All state tractor parts. The clamps are welded on the new ones too.
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 6:57pm |
The factory ends have larger clamps and the rod fits tighter. I had to use the factory clamp from the old end on mine. I think the clamp bolt is on the top. The one with the rod goes on the outside. I think some of you are thinking about the actual rod ends. They will only fit one way.
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 8:14pm |
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Since mine were rusted in place, I replaced the whole unit as its cheaper to buy the whole assembly. Thought I would be smart and put anti seize on the rods so they wouldn’t rust in place so I could change my front end width for plowing. Haha, as soon as I turned the steering wheel the rod moved but not the wheels. Yeah, spent another hour each side removing the anti seize before I got good clamping force. Don’t do that. Used Agco parts.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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calico190xt68
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Posted: 18 Sep 2019 at 9:26am |
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AC720MAN, in theory that sounds like a good idea. Sometimes they aren't. Appreciate the chuckle. I did discover that you have to tighten up pretty tight though without anti-seize. I had to buy both parts because I could not get the old two separated either.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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