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garden_guy 
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Location: Illinois
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 Topic: WD Brake band "jumping" when trying to adjust/tigh
Posted: 06 Jun 2018 at 10:13pm |
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Thanks for the muffler help. Going to work on that this weekend. But side issue cropped up...
Left brake works good. Press pedal down, good resistance, tractor stops. Right brake... Pedal is very loose, travels far, doesn't stop tractor. Take plate off, tighten brake band. Press brake, feel resistance, then hear "pop"... Brake is loose again. Rinse and repeat.
Is something stripped? Or a broken spring?
How far do I need to go in to investigate this... And where do I even start?
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 07 Jun 2018 at 4:40am |
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Sounds like adjuster screw is stripped...
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
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Posted: 07 Jun 2018 at 6:08am |
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X2 sounds like adjuster screw stripped. To confirm tighten it up then mark it with a felt tip marker or soap stone and try stepping on it till you hear the "pop" sound and see if it jumped back. R&R brakes on that model can be a challenge but plenty of help here, Good brakes is a must have safety item!!
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garden_guy
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Posted: 07 Jun 2018 at 7:11am |
That's kind of what it seemed like, but I will try to confirm this weekend.
Can I replace a stripped adjuster screw from the top of the brake housing? Or... Is this going to get more involved?
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Bill_MN
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Location: Sioux Falls, SD
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Posted: 07 Jun 2018 at 3:24pm |
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When you adjust the bolt is it progressively farther and farther in each time? Should be easy to notice that. I would also check the threaded end of the brake pedal rod underneath. That adjusting bolt inside is fairly large but the brake rod is small and under a lot of pressure, the pedal could be pulling the threads right out of the block.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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B26240
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Posted: 07 Jun 2018 at 4:01pm |
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If it's your adjusting nut or that area of the threads on the clevis bolt you may be able to add a extra nut that would be on better threads. Keep us posted as to what you find.
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garden_guy
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Posted: 09 Jun 2018 at 9:59pm |
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Well, I went out tonight and was only able to adjust it another quarter turn, and this time it did not "pop" back at me... So I am confused. The brake adjustment nut doesn't seem to have any more "adjustment" left to it now. The right brake pedal itself has a lot of slop in it, whereas the left brake feels "tighter".
But at least it will stop the tractor. Not sure what that was all about, will see what happens. I'm sure one of these years I'll have to pull them out and put the new liners in them, and fight the dang brake pin I've read so much about.
I probably ought to adjust the pedal travel so it doesn't have another 1-2" of travel past the left brake, but I will save that for another night... Thanks for the help, all.
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MACK
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Posted: 10 Jun 2018 at 7:52am |
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Best to replace lining before you ware drum out and have to replace it. MACK
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allisbred
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Posted: 10 Jun 2018 at 8:23pm |
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Start soaking the pin that holds the shoes on located at the bottom now. It is not that difficult to change shoes on those tractors if needed, make sure it is adjusted correctly on the top first(have seen several that had good lining and we're just past the centerline making them feel like something was broken).
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SteveM C/IL
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Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 12:53pm |
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.....and don't forget to "center" shoes after adjusting. A little tricky but must be done or you will wear one lining out. That little adjuster bolt/lock sticking out back side of brake hsg.
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garden_guy
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Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 9:24pm |
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Center the shoes, eh? Hmmm, never even noticed that stuff. What's the proper procedure for tightening and centering the brakes? Or should it be in the regular operators manual (I have it along with the parts and service manuals around the house somewhere).
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B26240
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Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 6:25am |
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Jack tractor till wheel can be turned, tighten centering bolt till drag is felt then back off 1/2 turn and tighten jam nut. Then tighten adjusting nut till drag is felt when turning wheel and back off 1/2 turn. If you have manual you should read it as there is also a brake peddle length reccomended for best leverage. FIND THE MANUAL AND READ IT.
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garden_guy
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Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 9:18pm |
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Okay, so reading the brake adjustment section (Page 26 of the operators manual), I am a bit confused. So my right brake has further max travel than my left brake by about 2 inches. But if I am reading this right.... I am supposed to turn in the equalizing screws, then press the pedals in two inches, then adjust them? So I basically need two people to pull this off? Or am I misreading the directions...
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SteveM C/IL
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Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 8:39am |
I"ve never read how to do it.....tighten 3/4 nut up top to tighten shoes.Keep going til rt side travel is even with left. Adjust centering screw so that both shoes move equal distance when you push pedal....YOU HAVE TO WATCH THE SHOE MOVE,NOT THE LINKAGE!!!!!
It's a one man job
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 15 Jun 2018 at 8:39am
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