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D17 running problems

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creynoldsmiz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote creynoldsmiz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D17 running problems
    Posted: 21 May 2019 at 12:50pm
Hey guys, new to the forum. We have a D17 and are having some problems with it. Ill explain where I am at on it.

It wasn't running well AT all, would barely idle, we have....

Replaced spark plugs
Replaced plug wires
Replaced and set points, replaced condenser
Cleaned out the carburetor
Replaced sediment bowl

After we did all of these things, the damn thing took right off and sat there and purred like a kitten for 15 minutes, took it all through the throttle ranges, and it even idled down low very good. Thought all was fixed. Then as we were cleaning up tools and about to take in it for a spin, it started kind of chugging along and then not running great and sputtering. Then all the sudden it started running fine again. Then running bad again. Now its at the point where it doesnt run that good, but fires right up.

On this tractor, we have had problems with water getting in the tank, and the tank being a bit dirty in the past which I think is why the carb needed a cleaning. We had drained all that out and have fresh gas in it now, and a tarp on top to keep water out.

Is it possible that my carb has gotten dirty again? The thing that I am confused at, is that now when it runs, you can see the governor linkage moving quite a bit, and I am not sure if the governor is my problem or if it is like a fuel problem. I am also wondering if I can replace the steel fuel line from the sediment bowl to the carb, and run it with rubber fuel line and an inline fuel filter for extra precaution.

Please let me know where you would start. We have the points set to .022 I believe that's what the book called for.

Thanks guys!
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 2:41pm
Why don't you disconnect the fuel line at the carb, and attach a hose and see how long it takes to collect one gallon of gas. Should do it in 10 minutes or less.
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Dave(inMA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 3:03pm
x2. Try to collect the gas in a clear/transparent container so you can see whether you have water or rust/dirt in the gas. You might also have contamination that's plugging the inlet to the sediment bowl - the symptoms you describe could easily be fuel starvation caused by blockage at the sed bowl or junk that's intermittently plugging a jet in the carb. Did you install a "pencil filter" in the sed bowl inlet when you replaced it? A pencil filter is a tube of screening that mates with the sed bowl and sticks up into the gas tank. These are often used to protect against contamination from clogging up the works. Good luck.
WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Hancock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 3:17pm
You may want to look and clean out the shutoff valve itself, if there's any fines stuck in there - if you haven't done so already when you changed the bowl.
Just thinking of a possibility.
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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creynoldsmiz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote creynoldsmiz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 3:18pm
Ok I will try that for sure
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creynoldsmiz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote creynoldsmiz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 3:47pm
Does anyone know how to rig up a fuel tank from a gas can so I can bypass my possibly dirty gas tank and run it straight into the carburetor with fresh gas. Also does anyone know what size fitting I would use for the carburetor inlet To convert it into a male adapter Where I can run a rubber hose to it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 4:06pm
The sediment bowl and steel line has worked fine for decades. Why throw a wrench in the gearbox by adding a filter and a rubber hose that can break down internally and plug your carb?
 I wouldn't check fuel flow at the carb inlet. Take the drain plug out of the bottom of the carb and check it there. Elbows on carb inlets can and sometimes do get restricted and should be cleaned, and you could also have an intermittent problem with a sticking float or needle in the seat. Checking for fuel flow before the carb inlet, won't let you know of any of these problems.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 4:07pm
Any old lawn mower gas tank can e plumbed into the carb and used for a temporary gas supply.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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creynoldsmiz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote creynoldsmiz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 4:14pm
I guess I was trying to bypass it with a separate tank and fuel line to eliminate that from the equation. This fuel tank honestly probably needs to be replaced
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 4:46pm
Is there a female fitting on the carb that you can take to the hardware store to match up to a male fitting? 
WC, CA, D14, WD45
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creynoldsmiz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote creynoldsmiz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 5:44pm
I can do that but I’ll probably have to take the whole fuel line too because I think the ends are flared and the female compression fitting won’t come off
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 6:06pm
Welcome! Good luck with your investigation. Fuel is a good place to start.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 8:44pm
Welcome to the forum.  First off, a tarp is NOT waterproof, over time water will get through a tarp.  Find out where water is getting in the tank - most likely a new fuel cap can do the trick.  Based on what you are describing, I think there is more crud in the tank that is moving around sometimes covering the sediment bowl opening.  I would take the tank off and try shaking it and see if anything comes out of it.  After that, I would take it to a local garage and they can clean it by filling it with myriatic acid and letting it soak.  You would be surprised what you can find in a 50+ year old tank.

If you have a clean tank, clean sediment bowl, clean steel fuel line and a clean carb you will not have any more fuel related problems - providing you use clean fuel as well.  I have never had a problem on any of my tractors - no need for an inline filter.  They can restrict fuel flow as well.  The tractor worked well with the sediment bowl set up for this long, no reason why it shouldn't keep working as long as you do your part.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote omahagreg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 9:33pm
We were having similar issues on our WD. Some body had removed the fuel cap and I missed it, so water got in for quite some time!  It would start fine cold, then just slowly loose power until it died.  Found chunks of rust floating in the tank that would cover the intake screen!  Removed sediment and fixed it right up!
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1950 WD with wide front and Freeman trip loader
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 9:42pm
I would guess condenser, coil, or bad connections from switch and coil.      MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote creynoldsmiz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 7:58am
Hey guys thanks for all your help, you guys have a great wealth of knowledge I can tell. I will take a look at that sediment screen. Like I said, the reason I was trying to temporarily bypass was to figure out where my problem is. The tank has been re lined before, but I can still see stuff floating in there but I can’t tell if it’s part of the liner or just other debris. This is purely just a work tractor not show at all, so I wouldn’t really care if I had to make something look a little hoopdie. I know it does leak around the gas gauge, so I wouldn’t mind eliminating this tank in all honestly and rigging something else up that I know works and is clean for cheap. But I will first check the sediment screen and then move from there and possibly check to see if the carb got dirty again.

I do know on the old sediment bowl before we just replaced it, that sometimes it would just clog and nothing would come out until I shot a little carb cleaner up into it and then pieces of junk would stream through . I bet my problem lies in there somewhere
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 9:02am
creynoldsmiz,
I would work on getting that tank in good order and cleaned out. We had problems with our old WD45's where the tanks had so much rust that it would plug the opening into the sediment bowl. I remember one day plowing snow in the drive and the tractor quit. Yep tank plugged. Removed the sediment bowl and poked something up in there to get gas to flow. held my finger over the outlet till I could get the sediment bowl back on! My hands are just now thawing out from that and it was 40+ years ago!
All kinds of stories of stuff floating over the drain and stopping the tractor. Then moving and allowing gas to flow. 
Its not real bad job to take one of these tanks off. Mine had a leak that had to be fixed. So it was on and off several times after I got it. 
You want to get this tank operational from a safety stand point. Anything temporary should only be used to determine the tank is the problem. Then please get the tank fixed. Or get a good used one.
Ok all this is assuming its a tank problem. But when you say there is stuff floating in there it probally needs to be looked at even if this is not the current issue.
 Sorry for the stories and length!

Tank removed:

Picture when I bought mine:


Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 22 May 2019 at 2:19pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MDWilliams338 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 9:24am
Originally posted by creynoldsmiz creynoldsmiz wrote:

Hey guys thanks for all your help, you guys have a great wealth of knowledge I can tell. I will take a look at that sediment screen. Like I said, the reason I was trying to temporarily bypass was to figure out where my problem is. The tank has been re lined before, but I can still see stuff floating in there but I can’t tell if it’s part of the liner or just other debris. This is purely just a work tractor not show at all, so I wouldn’t really care if I had to make something look a little hoopdie. I know it does leak around the gas gauge, so I wouldn’t mind eliminating this tank in all honestly and rigging something else up that I know works and is clean for cheap. But I will first check the sediment screen and then move from there and possibly check to see if the carb got dirty again.

I do know on the old sediment bowl before we just replaced it, that sometimes it would just clog and nothing would come out until I shot a little carb cleaner up into it and then pieces of junk would stream through . I bet my problem lies in there somewhere

If it’s the liner,that’s a whole nuther situation...best take it to a radiator shop and have it stripped.I’ve seen many tanks folks have done on bikes that didn’t properly cure and the liner started to disintegrate and fail. But this all sounds like a fairly easy fix once she’s not starving for fuel.
‘42B,’45B,’48C,’51CA,’52CA,’69170,1935WC,1936WC,WD,WD Highcrop,WD45,WF,D10/14/15/17/19

It isn’t how you die.It’s what you live for.-Daniel Boone
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote MDWilliams338 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 9:25am
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

creynoldsmiz,
I would work on getting that tank in good order and cleaned out. We had problems with out old WD45's where the tanks had so much rust that it would plug the opening into the sediment bowl. I remember one day plowing snow in the drive and the tractor quit. Yep tank plugged. Removed the sediment bowl and poked something up in there to get gas to flow. held my finger over the outlet till I could get the sediment bowl back on! My hands are just now thawing out from that and it was 40+ years ago!
All kinds of stories of stuff floating over the drain and stopping the tractor. Then moving and allowing gas to flow. 
Its not real bad job to take one of these tanks off. Mine had a leak that had to be fixed. So it was on and off several times after I got it. 
You want to get this tank operational from a safety stand point. Anything temporary should only be used to determine the tank is the problem. Then please get the tank fixed. Or get a good used one.
Ok all this is assuming its a tank problem. But when you say there is stuff floating in there it probally needs to be looked at even if this is not the current issue.
 Sorry for the stories and length!

Tank removed:

Picture when I bought mine:


Regards,
 Chris



Not to highjack but I love this 17 Chris!
‘42B,’45B,’48C,’51CA,’52CA,’69170,1935WC,1936WC,WD,WD Highcrop,WD45,WF,D10/14/15/17/19

It isn’t how you die.It’s what you live for.-Daniel Boone
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frnkeore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 12:05pm
I had similar problems with a Ferguson 35. It would run then quit, over and over.

In sorting it out, I got my bare hands soaked in gas, many times. It burns and is not healthy for your body! I try not to get any gas on my hands but, it can't be helped when working on tractors.

I took the tank off and turned it up side down, supported on my boom and shook it for about 1/2 hour. I got several things out of it. It took that long because it had baffles in it. Along with the objects, I got more that a 8 oz cup of rust.

I then filled it with a 10/1 mixture of water/muratic acid and let it soak, over night. I repeated it the next day but, the second day and night was cooler and I had to extend the soak and other 10 - 12 hours.
Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 2:26pm
Just re-read some of the original posts. Maybe it was answered ? Yes your carb could be dirty again. I have had some of them on and off several times. Even switched to a known carb from a like tractor.
Regards,
Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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