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Ranse 
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
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 Topic: Building Project
Posted: 11 Nov 2019 at 9:52pm |
I been working on a good dry place to store the D-10 and my motorcycle. I been working on it off and on since July, but I actually started it last year. Winter set in and it stayed to wet to dig until summer. Now winter is setting in again and I'm still working on it. got top soil scraped off ready to dig footer.  Blocks laid, gravel, all formed up ready for concrete.  Pad done.  This is how it looks now. Still a lot of work to do. I'm using a lot of sawmill lumber my Dad had cut and stored years ago. It's hard to work with and makes it go slower. I think my Dad would be glad it's finally being used and didn't go to waste. I plan to put vinyl siding on it to match the building it's attached to, can't have an eye sore in the backyard. I hope this will be a good building. My biggest concern is the roof is really flat. Only drops a foot in 14 feet. I didn't have much choice, but no leaks so far and hope it stays that way.   
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87625
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Posted: 11 Nov 2019 at 10:13pm |
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I have a car port with about that same pitch on the roof... Steel roof like yours... seems to work fine.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 33874
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Posted: 12 Nov 2019 at 4:40am |
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Did you add a vapor barrier Under that roof? if not will likely rain inside every so often from condensation. Looks like a fine shed.
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson Cnty,GA
Points: 6465
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Posted: 12 Nov 2019 at 6:08am |
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Nice shed! The D10 will like a nice dry place to get out of the winter weather which is here already.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8478
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Posted: 12 Nov 2019 at 8:14am |
Ranse, I need that! Good work! You dad would be very pleased! Maybe this will help get me motivated next spring! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Ranse
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Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
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Posted: 12 Nov 2019 at 8:36am |
 DMiller wrote:
Did you add a vapor barrier Under that roof? if not will likely rain inside every so often from condensation. Looks like a fine shed. |
The answer is no, and I've noticed a few drips in the floor already. You can write your name on the bottom side of that tin every morning. I've never noticed that on the old building the shed is attached to. I think this roof is worse because it's so flat. I was going to use that 1/4" Styrofoam insulation between the metal and lad. I thought I allowed enough room for it, but after the rafters and lad went up I decided it would be to tight getting the new metal under the old. I'm going to put 3 1/2" roll insulation between the rafters. I already have a bundle I bought for a different building. Condensation is a real problem in the all metal building were I keep the D10 and B now. Sometimes both tractors will be covered in water droplets sitting inside. Sometimes I think they might be better off outside. My motorcycle sits in an open metal carport, and it has suffered some rust because of it. This shed has a concrete floor, 3/4" OSB walls, and the thick black tar paper is a great moisture barrier. I'm hoping with the addition of the insulation and vinyl siding, this will be a moisture free building. A good place for my toys, unfortunately, I don't believe there will be enough room for the B as well.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24655
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Posted: 12 Nov 2019 at 9:40am |
My concern is 'snow load'. 2by8s(?) spanning 12'(?) is really 'marginal'. OK for rain, but snow can buildup and collapse roofs. See that happen here ,all the time....sigh.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Ranse
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Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
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Posted: 12 Nov 2019 at 9:56am |
jaybmiller wrote:
My concern is 'snow load'. 2by8s(?) spanning 12'(?) is really 'marginal'. OK for rain, but snow can buildup and collapse roofs. See that happen here ,all the time....sigh.
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I thought about that as well, but I live in Tennessee. We seldom get more than an inch of snow, and six inches is a blizzard for us. That only happens every 10 or 15 years.
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DougG
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Location: Mo
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Posted: 12 Nov 2019 at 10:07am |
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Good looking shed for the little D10 to snuggle into !
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 12 Nov 2019 at 10:37am |
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sigh, must be nice... I've already received a ' 6" white donation' from 'he who must not be named'.....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 6066
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Posted: 17 Nov 2019 at 12:34pm |
Yeah, you won't have much snow-load to worry about, as long as you don't get an ice storm, it'll be okay.
The only other way to defeat the roof pitch issue, would be to move the upper edge from below the prior roofline, to halfway up the peak, and then build a gable on the far end.
Condensation from underneath happens because the roof is cold, and the air inside is warm and moist. You can add insulation, but the real fact, is that there's moisture in the concrete that'll be coming up for a long time, and being an unheated space, you'll always have something cooler than the air to condense against. Adding heat, and exchanging with dry air is the only thing you can do.
Having a small air volume underneath the roof means that on a sunny day, it'll be really hot in there... ventilation will help mitigate lots of problems.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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LeonR2013
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Joined: 01 Jan 2013
Location: Fulton, Mo
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Posted: 17 Nov 2019 at 3:22pm |
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Dave I agree. I always recommend plastic under the concrete on a pour. Makes a world of difference.
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Ranse
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Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
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Posted: 17 Nov 2019 at 8:32pm |
Once the garage door is up (which I dread starting) the building will be pretty much dried in. I'm not sure if I'm going to start the vinyl siding right away or not. I don't have access to a Sheetmetal brake anymore, so I'm not sure how I'm going to get it done. I've been painting all the exposed wood for now.  I'm still getting some condensation in the mornings. I haven't put up any insulation yet. I thought instead of using the 3 1/2" roll insulation, I would get the 1/4" Styrofoam insulation and cutting it in 23" strips. I could staple them to the lap between the rafters. This would leave a 1" airspace between the metal and Styrofoam. I thought this might work better than having the fluffed up insulation right against the metal, but I'm not sure. I may get condensation no matter what. The old building has the same type of metal roof and it doesn't get any condensation, but it has a wood floor and is off the ground. I did put plastic under the concrete. On top of the gravel, not the dirt. I'm not sure which is best, might not hurt to do both, but it's to late now. 
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 17 Nov 2019 at 8:47pm |
Ranse, That looks great and you have room for another Allis tractor in there too! You have done a lot of work on it! Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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allisrutledge
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Joined: 30 Mar 2010
Location: SurgoinsvilleTN
Points: 1360
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Posted: 18 Nov 2019 at 7:35am |
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Rance, any insulation you use will help, not with just moisture but also with help keeping it cooler on those hot Tennessee summer days. That's why I would suggest r13 at least if not r19 fiberglass. You will be happy you did.The next time you build a shed look at a product called condistop. It is put on the bottom of the metal as it is formed. A little pricey but we'll worth it.it has no r value but sure does stop the dripping. I built one without it and one with But they are both open front sheds. Your building looks good, now go on the other side and build a storage shed and make a shop out of that one!!
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Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns
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HD6GTOM
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
Points: 6627
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Posted: 21 Nov 2019 at 1:00am |
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After doing it once, I'd look at closed cell spray foam. I have not seen any evidence of condensation anywhere.
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ac hunter
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Joined: 05 Jan 2011
Location: OHIO
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Posted: 21 Nov 2019 at 7:58am |
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You will probably have dampness in your building for a while since all the moisture in the concrete has to evaporate from the top; won't go down through the plastic. We poured a floor in our building last December and it took several months for the moisture to leave. Had heat in the building to 60-65 degrees all winter and ran a dehumidifier when it was warm enough inside. Both gravel and plastic are good. You have a nice addition there. I have never installed an overhead door but lots of folks do so I'll bet you can too.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 21 Nov 2019 at 9:11am |
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It's a little late now but I put a layer of reflectics on top of the purlins before putting the steel on. It works better than just plastic vapor barrier under the steel . At this point spray on is prolbably your best bet it keeping it dry. Over head doors are fairly easy to install. Follow the instructions assemble all the panels and stick them in the door opening before you start putting up the rails. I did my 16x10 insulated by myself. The top two panels were a stretch. It's much harder if you don't have another door to walk through cause ther is always something on the other side you need after you get about halfway up.
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Ranse
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Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
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Posted: 25 Nov 2019 at 7:18pm |
 I hit a snag installing the garage door. The door hits the first rafter on the low side. I did manage to get he door up by removing the first roller and bracket and replaced it after it passed the first rafter. It seemed to clear the other rafters ok after the door made it's turn. As I see it, I have two options. I can cut a notch in the first rafter, or spend $80 more and get the low headroom installation kit. I can't get a lot of info on it. Has anyone ever installed a garage door using a low headroom kit? I believe I can get the door to go up and down without it. I'm not sure if there's enough room for the springs and such. I assume the low headroom kit will work because that's what it's supposed to do. I like to hear from someone who knows, Thanks.
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200 10and20
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Joined: 20 Jun 2019
Location: Tim Buk Tu
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Posted: 25 Nov 2019 at 7:26pm |
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Rance yes a lowheadroom kit will work very easy to install.
If I knew how to post pics on here I would show them on my on my old shop doors.
Edited by 200 10and20 - 26 Nov 2019 at 7:41am
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