Restored d17 project

Lol there pokey....starting to look like guides may be the culprit.

There's a dimension given in the service manual as to how far to press the valve guides in BELOW flush of the top surface of the cylinder head (where the valve cover gasket contacts).  This is the most likely cause of 8 destroyed push rods.

my red flag is it said that the head was done twice it was split three times  three places or the same place three times

I'd have to look in my service manual at home to tell you the guide height, but it's below flush of the top of the head, not flush. I'm thinking 1/8" inch below.   When one used Allis/AGCO guides they had a mark on the guides that was the proper dimension so you pressed them into the head from the top until the mark was flush with the guides bore.

Gary Burnett wrote: The stem also looks like it’s an old valve not new one

you are right, rust pits everywhere.
Just noticed today that the bottom of the sleeves are pitted pretty bad…
If I was to planing on running it a lot I’d probably go ahead and put new sleeves in due to burning a little oil.

I didn’t realize that someone could do a job like this and still get business while charging full price..

Intake guides to be at least 1/8" (.125") below flush with the top of the head and exhausts are flush.

Dirt Farmer wrote: Just wondering, what are the chances that the last time it was worked on the guy put the wrong push rods in out of another project he had been working on and there is another project out there that has no power or cranks but won't start. Just thinking outside the box. Too long, totally collapsing the spring and bending the push rods.

Better safe than sorry while you have it this far along and if it starts leaking he'd probably blame you. I'd try to figure out why the bent push rods before I dove in too deep. Could turn into a money pit but that's not on you, you are working with what you have and connecting the dots like any good mechanic would do. While the head is being checked over have them check it for being true and flat and ask if there is a way to measure if and how much it may have been planed down. Be sure to check valve/rocker arm settings when reassembling. Keep us in the loop cause we all learn something on here from others experiences.

Looks to be in time..
Very confusing because front pulley doesn’t appear to have been removed and the seal too, but the gasket seems like it has gasket maker on it…

I’m starting to get bald spots from scratching my head….

cam is in time and the governor is OK......  and the valves bent... So valves were stuck in the guides, or the engine had oil on top of the pistons and came up on compression when full of fuel / oil ?

Edited by steve(ill) - 7 hours 37 minutes ago at 9:54am

steve(ill) wrote: cam is in time and the governor is OK......  and the valves bent... So valves were stuck in the guides, or the engine had oil on top of the pistons and came up on compression when full of fuel / oil ? he said it was in the shop for 7 years... maybe the rings stuck in the piston and no compression, or stuck to liner and no rotation.. so they put a few oz of oil in each cylinder and let it set, then  installed plugs without removing the oil ??

There only was some grease, in previous posts I had a picture of the cylinders right after I removed the head.
I sprayed some JD multipurpose oil down the spark plug holes to prevent cylinder scoring when I got it here. But it was still stuck until I removed all the push rods.