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WD-45 block questions.... |
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JayD-17(NY) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: New York Points: 577 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 6:14pm |
Mu cousin recently purchased a WD-45 parts tractor but after getting it home and looking it over, we decided it was a bit too nice overall to turn it into a parts machine. Sheet metal is in near perfect condition....Externally, the tractor doesn't seem like it had too hard a life, with very little wear on the drawbar and front end. Still has the original Nelson muffler with it.
Previous owner bought it to restore but when he pulled the head, he saw hairline cracks in the block between the cylinder sleeves and lost interest in proceeding with the restoration. It then sat for a decade or so before he decided to let it go for parts price... My cousin took the head to a shop and they found no cracks or flaws and they are currently giving it a valve job...... My cousin worked on removing the block from the tractor....he said it came out fairly easy and then removed the pistons from the sleeves. #4 was lightly stuck...... I took some pictures of the block hoping to get some opinions on how to proceed from here.....How big of a concern are these cracks? Should the block be tested too? Is it repairable? Are the sleeves savable or should they come out too? He said the pistons and ring looked to be fitting tight in the sleeves. There was no water in the oil or vice-versa. He is wondering if the sleeves are savable, if he could slap new rings on the pistions and new bearings on the crank or should a complete and through engine job be done.... [url=https://flic.kr/p/2jir9bH] ![]() [url=https://flic.kr/p/2jiu6YJ]
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Would be more concerned about rust on sleeves. The cracks are no concern. MACK
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8478 |
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Mack and The good Dr are some of the veterans on these Allis block crack issues. My two cents would be the same no issues with the cracks in the upper deck as the new sleves should protrude .005 thousands above the deck and seal on the head gasket. Now I like to have the block checked for other issues such as cracks in the lower webs between the sleeves. If no cracks then your good to do a rebuild. I would just go with new sleeves and a complete rebuild kit. Yes not a cheap date but about like one payment on a new kubota!:)
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7496 |
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That craack is no problem. I rebuilt a D14 that had a crack like that, but has never caused any problem. I would definitely do a full rebuild on it, you would never have to touch it again.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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blue924.9 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Location: George Iowa Points: 1089 |
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Block in my wd cracked and sank down. Pulled a parts wc block apart and had a crack between 3 and 4 that was repaired
Has worked for 4 years now. I vote take it to the machine shop and let them look as long as the sealing surface is fiat |
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hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 6066 |
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As others noted, that crack is entirely common characteristic of this engine. The casting at that location really only serves purpose of maintaining the top of the sleeve's position, and others noted, the seal is formed by virtue of gasket being sandwiched between the head, sleeve face, and coolant port areas. There's no circumstance of concern there. If the sleeves are damaged, I suggest dropping in a piston/sleeve kit. Make sure the piston/rod orientation is correct... read the service manual. If you install them facing the wrong way, they self-adjust to rather undesireable geometry and make unpleasant noises.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21836 |
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If I'm going to spend $$$$$ on a new motor kit, regrind the crank, etc , I myself would prefer a perfect block. One upper deck crack that was flat and not spread apart, I could probably live with, but more than one, not for me. Where I live it isn't hard at all to find a good used block for $200 or less. To each his own.
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8478 |
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The doctor has a good point. I was fortunate to have a good block setting in the corner of the shop for the last 5 years. It had no cracks in top or bottom. Mainly because it was replacement block that may not had many hours on it then was allowed to rust the pistons solid again.
Good luck with your engine. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Boss Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 03 Mar 2018 Location: Greenleaf, WI Points: 617 |
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All depends on the intended use. A tractor that gets used maybe twice a month 6 months out of the year for light duty I would clamp the sleeves down with bolts and washers, hone them clean, re-ring and run. Something that might plow 8 hours a day, bale hay, drag logs etc I would spend the money and do a complete over haul.
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