Doing a little better

I got a little work done today.  Got the brakes adjusted on the 7G, managed to get the fluid in the trans up onto the stick and it milked up when I started the tractor so it will get changed if not flushed.  The brakes were at best bet 7 turns out, spec for a good adjust is 1 1/2 and they do well at this point, got a lot of debris off the final drive housing and the trans top, can actually see some of the necessary to work with parts!  Filters arrived just as I was readying to go to the farm; Air filter had to weigh 10 lbs., due to the exhaust being off and the original scavenging tube still open it was loaded with carbon and mud dobbers(dead), new one made the excessive smoke die off.  Have the rest of the filters for the complete change out.

Did have a worry expose itself, when I shifted from Forward low to high I got nothing, did not try Reverse yet as rain was moving in and I wanted it indoors to work on such as the exhaust, get started on draining.  Trevor is sending the track pins/parts he had, looks like that will fix up the rails.

Corey, today I got into the trans service, a real pain by the way, the result after fresh fluid and filters was about 120 on the trans pressure gauge(low green scale) and almost 15 on the clutch pressure gauge(high in green scale).  If you change your fluids get a drain pan of at least 10-12 gallon capacity or you take a bath reinstalling the plug to drain the pan and try again.  Three plugs, one for each side clutch and one main for the sump.

Shifting started sluggish after the fluid change but did better as I moved the machine around, the old fluid was grey and the filters small round bricks, luckily I had bought doubles as I figured a first change would be to catch the flushed crap from the fluid change out.  Steering still only releases the clutches, won't engage the brake for turning, I have to augment that with a touch of the foot brake to that side, not yet certain where to go on that issue.  Did see they had installed radiator hose in place of accordion boots for the steer/brake actuators(both sides), these may be too much resistance on the linkage for the steering system to overcome by the light hydraulic pressure signal.  Oh, and after the fluid change high side on both Reverse and Forward came back.

Next drawback and buyers remorse, I need to pull the right sprocket taper shaft and re-bearing/reseal, it is floating and allowing the sprocket to contact the rear bottom roller, also leaks like a open sore.

I was a little busy but took these, will take more as I progress.
I had to destroy to remove the trans filter from its casing.  While in that deep I managed to get the brake pedal return spring back on the left pedal, that too is much better.

DMiller wrote: Corey, today I got into the trans service, a real pain by the way, the result after fresh fluid and filters was about 120 on the trans pressure gauge(low green scale) and almost 15 on the clutch pressure gauge(high in green scale).  If you change your fluids get a drain pan of at least 10-12 gallon capacity or you take a bath reinstalling the plug to drain the pan and try again.  Three plugs, one for each side clutch and one main for the sump. Shifting started sluggish after the fluid change but did better as I moved the machine around, the old fluid was grey and the filters small round bricks, luckily I had bought doubles as I figured a first change would be to catch the flushed crap from the fluid change out.  Steering still only releases the clutches, won't engage the brake for turning, I have to augment that with a touch of the foot brake to that side, not yet certain where to go on that issue.  Did see they had installed radiator hose in place of accordion boots for the steer/brake actuators(both sides), these may be too much resistance on the linkage for the steering system to overcome by the light hydraulic pressure signal.  Oh, and after the fluid change high side on both Reverse and Forward came back. Next drawback and buyers remorse, I need to pull the right sprocket taper shaft and re-bearing/reseal, it is floating and allowing the sprocket to contact the rear bottom roller, also leaks like a open sore.

                 glad you're getting along. One thing, I found that the brake is nearly always necessary on the inside track while turning (unless going up a steep hill). At "cruising" speed, it will turn slowly with just steering levers. However, I usually turn at lower throttle settings; maybe at high idle it would turn faster. thanks for the gauge readings, that is approximately what I see on mine, just with too much drop off at low idle.

Well found a used sprocket shaft assembly for pieces, and got bearing numbers to interchange from a company in CA, they had a seal kit in stock and one race so I at least bought those.  Will be heading to Redbud IL to get the shaft pieces from Chartrand Equipment in the next few days.