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Wd cam timing advance |
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bobutzinger ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 31 Oct 2012 Location: ohio Points: 135 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 18 Aug 2021 at 10:11pm |
Built a pulling motor and put in a cam done by a gentleman named Barney in northern Ohio before he died. Was told by a fellow puller running the same to advance the cam one tooth. Anybody done this or know any info? Thanks Bob
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B,B with snap co,2-C,CA,WC FLAT TOP,WC,ED 40,2-WD,2-WD45,2-WD45D,D10,D12,D14,D15,D15II, D17,D17D-S1,D17D-S3,D17IV,D19D,180,185,190Xt III,200,7000,7010,7030,2-7060,7060PS-Cummins,7080,K2D,F2D,F3D,2-M2D
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Bill_MN ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Points: 1466 |
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Somewhat old post but I did this when I rebuilt my WD engine, works great. Each tooth is 4 degrees if I remember right. Advancing one tooth increases your effective compression ratio without causing piston-valve interference on stock parts. I'm actually running WD45 crank with WD pistons so even closer to the valves and still no issues.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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bobutzinger ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 31 Oct 2012 Location: ohio Points: 135 |
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Yeah I have a 45 crank redone to run Buda rods. I have another 1 with stock cam advanced 1 tooth also. Was trying to find out if i needed to do that with a Barney Taylor cam that has been re-worked. Thanks Bob
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B,B with snap co,2-C,CA,WC FLAT TOP,WC,ED 40,2-WD,2-WD45,2-WD45D,D10,D12,D14,D15,D15II, D17,D17D-S1,D17D-S3,D17IV,D19D,180,185,190Xt III,200,7000,7010,7030,2-7060,7060PS-Cummins,7080,K2D,F2D,F3D,2-M2D
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bsallis180 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Jul 2013 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 209 |
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I’m not sure how advancing your cam will increased your compression ratio. On a cam you need more torque than advance it. If you need more rpm then retard it. If you have detonation then retard it.
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4906 |
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The important thing is: What is the cam center line suppose to be??? You should have been told this by the one who reground the cam, getting it close is not always "good enough" and may end up being worse that a stock cam properly centered. A tooth (4 degrees) may be too much or not enough. Doing anything by guess work is just throwing darts.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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Charlie175 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shenandoah, VA Points: 6359 |
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People make a slotted gear for the purpose of doing 1/2 tooth as 1 tooth may be too much
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
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Bill_MN ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Points: 1466 |
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Yes on a custom cam like from Barney that won't apply, the old advancing a tooth thing is supposed to help on a stock cam and engine. A custom cam should already be set up properly at the normal timing marks.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Robacpuller ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Apr 2016 Location: Wisconsin Points: 248 |
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My cam is a 4 master grind, Marty Nelson helped dial it in. Cam card was 107 from cam center line. We advanced it 1 tooth and a half. Marty made a half key to get it dialed in. Ground off old mark and re stamped it. Runs awsome. Guy in Spencer wisconsin ground it. Marty and him came up with grind. Best $150 I could have spent.
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Robacpuller ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Apr 2016 Location: Wisconsin Points: 248 |
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Forgot to say I have 400 cube motor.
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