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How to change blades on a belly mower?
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EPALLIS View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
Points: 1141 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EPALLIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: How to change blades on a belly mower?
    Posted: 15 May 2011 at 11:31am
I have an Allis-Chalmers model B with Woods belly mower.  About 5 years ago I needed the blades sharpened.  I ran it up on some car ramps and removed the blades that way but it was kind of a heck of a jump as the bolts were really on tight.  Now its time to sharpen again.  Is there an easier way to do this??
 
I ended up getting a 2 foot long pipe on the wrench in order to get enough leverage to loosen them.
 
Any assistance would be appreciated.  Thanks so much!
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brettIA View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 Jan 2010
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Points: 38 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brettIA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2011 at 11:42am
Make sure that the brake is set and the ignition is DISABLED before you get under that mower ! we had a call 2 years ago the guy was doing the same thing . the nuts were tight so he set the brakes engaged the mower and placed in gear . to keep them from spinning . he ended up with a running mower and moving tractor on top of him !!   heat nuts with a torch first , not red just warm that should release them then use plenty of anti seize when puting them on . next time wont be so bad !!
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Joined: 30 Mar 2011
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I have a piece of 2x4  with a step in it  and use it to block the blade from turning.
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 22824 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2011 at 12:04pm
I use an impact wrench. Nothing better. 
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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AC WD45 View Drop Down
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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Points: 2060 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC WD45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2011 at 12:13pm

Drive up on wramps, set brake. Unhook ALL spk plug wires. place mower and tractor in gear, tractor in 1st gear. heat bolts to cherry red. 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar with a long cheater pipe. That's how I do the bush hog, but I lift it with the 3pt and stick jackstands under it.
German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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Wil M (NEIA) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 478 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wil M (NEIA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2011 at 12:25pm
I personally would take the mower off the tractor and stand it up on end then use a 4 x 4 or 2 x 4 to hold the blades from moving and a cheater pipe on my breaker bar.  Then upon reassembly I would use some never sieze on the bolts and then put the mower on.  That is how I do it with the belly mower on my C and my regular lawn mowing tractor.   I'd never dream of driving it up on ramps and crawling under there. 
"Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs
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Joined: 10 Mar 2011
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Points: 218 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nsula_country Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2011 at 12:44pm

Impact wrench to remove. Breaker bar to reinstall. Use anti-seize too.


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pumpkin man View Drop Down
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 (DONOT USE HEAT ON BOLTS) you damage slip clutchs & melt the  nylon lock slip a peice of tubing over blade to keep it from turning use breaker bar & cheater pipe or impac wrench to losen bolt [bolts are LEFT HAND THREADS] owners manual calls for  [170 # torque]
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Points: 3962 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2011 at 3:51pm
I take mine off to do the blades. Not that hard just disconnect the belt, lift up remove the spring. let down disconnect the lift chain. Pull the two lower pivot pins and drive off. then use a loader and tip the back up vertical.  rember whick adjustment hole the pivot pins were in and put back the same way.
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Dick L View Drop Down
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If you have a manual lift you can jack up the front of the mower deck to where you can use an air impact or breaker bars without lifting the front tires. I just bought a hydraulic lift L59 but do not have it home yet to know for sure but I am sure that if you remove anything in the way ther is enough clearance to get the deck high enough. The domed washer acts as a lock washer and it does tighten more as you use the mower. I had one bolt that I tac welded a wrench to the bolt head and used a long pipe and a sledge to get it to move. The head had rounded off so a socked would slip. My smaller 1/2" drive air impact sometimes will not move them. I have a 3/4" drive for truck wheels that will. I have to jack one side of the dick higher than the other to get in under without lifting the front tires.  I sharpen the blades on mine several times a summer. This is the eleventh year for this mower. I did a total rebuild last fall. I put Duplicolor bed liner under the deck.  I use the mower to mulch the horse manure down after spreading on my hay field. The bed liner seems to shed clean.
 
 
 


Edited by Dick L - 15 May 2011 at 5:53pm
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 22824 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2011 at 7:17pm
Originally posted by pumpkin man pumpkin man wrote:

 (DONOT USE HEAT ON BOLTS) you damage slip clutchs & melt the  nylon lock slip a peice of tubing over blade to keep it from turning use breaker bar & cheater pipe or impac wrench to losen bolt [bolts are LEFT HAND THREADS] owners manual calls for  [170 # torque]
An L59 or L306 should have left handed threads. I have Woods 59 that someone sold for an Allis B with right handed blades and right handed threads. The reason I have it is because the original owner could never get it to work right. I ran it the first year with right handed blades and finally gave up and put left handed blades on it. That is one reason I use the impact. The blades will unscrew the bolt if not torqued well. 
 I could have spent an extra $100 10 years ago to buy left handed spindles for the deck but it works fine the way it is now if I torque the bolts up.
 Heat on the bolts could very easily transfer to the seal that is supposed to keep the grease in the bearing. There is really no need for heat if the blades are removed regularly for sharpening.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 15 May 2011 at 7:19pm
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
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Points: 1225 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfmurray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2011 at 8:26pm
If you want to get deck up so you get under it just take 41/2 in side grinder and sharpen in place. Be careful neighbor got killed working on bush just proped up.
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