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coil rheostat-gets hot-normal? |
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Dale ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Points: 375 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 03 May 2011 at 5:01pm |
Doing some behind the dash wiring improvement on my AC 210. The light switch has a coil wire rheostat that gets real hot when the lights are turned on. Is this normal? Too hot to touch. What amp fuses should I use-wiring is mostly 12 and 14 gauge. Thanks
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realolman ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 384 |
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If it is just a resistor in series with the lights it would get hot... maybe too hot to touch. It seems silly ....why such a thing would be installed... why would you want to dim your lights unless its just the dash lights ... I am not familiar with the lighting on a 210.
I imagine a wire wound resistor would be precisely to be able to take a lot of heat in building wiring you can put a 20 amp fuse in the 12 and a 15 on the 14 gauge wires Edited by realolman - 03 May 2011 at 6:11pm |
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Butch(OH) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lucerne Ohio Points: 3835 |
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To add to the prior correct information. The light switch has 4 ( I think) positions.
1-Off
2- Dim road lights. Should have one on each side of the fender lights on and going through the resister to dim them and the Orang/red rear road lights should be on and wired through the flasher. It is mounted near the switch on the back of the dash.
3- Bright road lights. Should have one light on each fender on and at full voltage (bright) and the red/orange on flash same as #2
4- Field. All four head lamps on bright, red/orange road lamps off and rear facing work light(s) on.
I can get the wiring order from my 220 if it EVER quits raining long enough to back to the barn.
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