![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
7060 Intake gasket? |
Post Reply ![]() |
Author | |
Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 09 Apr 2011 at 8:40pm |
My black belly 7060 had been setting a LONG time before I bought it. The motor was fairly freshly rebuilt, but had one bad sleeve and piston, which I replaced. I also had to put a new/rebuilt injection pump on. It starts quick and easy and runs great, but when pulling even a marginal load (yesterday it 80 degrees or so and I was pulling an 18' 2300 finish disc), it gets too hot (220). I have flushed the radiator, fan belts are tight, foam around the radiator is good, air filters are clean, etc. The fuel was old and gunky when I got it, and have flushed the tanks and put 2 filters on before it gets to the pump, and both of them still look fine. I put the intercooler and gasket on by myself (without a lift) when I was going through the motor, and I have always worried I pinched the gasket or perhaps didnt get it seated right. Could that be causing my heat problems? Any other suggestions? I had my 7045 working the same day, pulling a 37' Unverferth rolling basket in a higher gear, and it didnt get over 200. Any suggestions or troubleshooting ideas for the intake gasket would be appreciated.
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Take the radiator to a shop and get it rodded out. There are alot of tractors in the country that need that. MACK
|
|
![]() |
|
Russ-neia ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NE Iowa Points: 489 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I second the radiator internal cleaning. Did that to our 7040 to cure the overheating problem.
|
|
The innovators offer what others will imitate.
|
|
![]() |
|
Hurst ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Midway, Ky Points: 1213 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Bad water pump and/or thermostat?
Hurst |
|
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours |
|
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21069 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Before doing the radiator, verify the temp is actually hot by installing a manual temp gauge like a D17 style. You can purchase a cheap gauge and wire it to the outside of the cab to watch and make sure you really do have an overheating condition. Compare it to the factory gauge as there will be an extra acces plug on the thermostat housing. Many dashboard gauges read high when they get old and there isn't a problem with the engine....it's the gauge or sender. |
|
![]() |
|
Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I thought about the gauge as well. I had been down that road before so I put a nice white face manual automotive gauge on it. The only plug that would come loose was the sender for the original gauge, so it isnt functioning for comparison, but I trust the new gauge I put on.
As far as the radiator, I have blown it out well, the fins are all straight. Last summer I made an adaptor to hook a garden hose to the bottom drain of the radiator, took the cap off, and I back-flushed the system the system with that. It really seemed to be clean and flow free, but it could easily still be the problem. I havent tested the thermostat either. Is there any way to test the water pump without chaning it out? Also, am I totally barking up the wrong tree about the intake gasket? Thanks again guys!
|
|
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21069 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
A blown/leaking intake gasket would cause more exhaust smoke, low HP and low boost pressures.
|
|
![]() |
|
Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks. It seems to have plenty of horse, has an acceptable amount black smoke (the pump was off an N6, so it is probably a little richer than the 7060 was stock, right?) and I dont have a boost gauge. It sounds like I dont have to worry about the gasket then. Back to the usual suspects I guess.
|
|
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21069 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Put the tractor in "Park" and operate at full throttle for about 15 minutes. (if it's Power Shift put it in 6th gear). After that warm-up period the temp gauge should read 180 degrees....that is what good thermostats should do. If this is good and the temps just steadily climb when working the tractor (say like over a period of 10 to 30 minutes) and the harder you pull it the hotter and quicker to hot it gets, it sounds like too small of radiator, or in your case plugged tubes not allowing good coolant flow or fins plugged badly inside the core. Be sure the transmission isn't over full by any amount as that adds to the cooling package heat rejection load. The fan should be 8 blades and the shroud should be covering 1/2 of the blade tips for best air movement.
|
|
![]() |
|
randy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 1194 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Try a hand held laser themometer and you can double check tractor gauge. I bought one at harbor freight fro $25 on sale .
|
|
CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
|
|
![]() |
|
injpumpEd ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 4988 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
what kind of gauge is it? I have bought some from oreilly sunpro? can't remember right now for sure the brand, but they always read 220*. before you tear the whole thing down, you still need to verify it is getting hot, and not just a false reading. Don't ask how I know this! LOL! Ed.
|
|
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
|
![]() |
|
Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've wondered about that with some of the cheap-o gauges like those from HF tools, but this is an Imega or something like that. I have one exactly like it on my 7045 and it seems to stay accurate there (or maybe the 7045 actually is running just as hot just not showing it!)
|
|
![]() |
|
randy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 1194 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The gauge is a laser, google harbor tool and enter Cen-Teck 96451, I checked my 8070 gauge with a 180 thermostat and when i checked the thermostat housing it read pretty close to 180 deg. within 5 degrees. then i checked the radiator at different places, could tell the difference from inlet to outlet of radiator.
|
|
CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
|
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |