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WD45 hydraulic pump |
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Ryan Renko ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2325 |
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I'm thinking about tearing into the pump to see why my remote outlet pressure is only around 1500psi instead of the 3500psi. Whats the best manual one can get?? I have seen the I&T and I would like something very detailed like a dealers manual. Also, does anyone else on this site have any of the many pump parts or will I just have to take it in the rear from agco??? Thanks in advance, Ryan
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Before you take the pump off, adjust the linkage under fuel tank to raise the pump linkage up more. See if it increeses the pressure.
I keep most of the parts for the pump, but are not expence from AGCO. MACK
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Roddo ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Jul 2010 Location: Brant, Ontario Points: 466 |
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If you can get ahold of some sort of manual for it I'd be interested in a scan or a copy. The pump on my 45 needs some love as well. It doesnt seem to work with the traction booster at all. When I try to set it it creeps up or down wont maintain a set height.
It works with the hold valve but that does the traction booster no good.... |
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wkpoor ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 25 Apr 2010 Location: Amanda, OH Points: 825 |
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I bought all the stuff from Sandylake but in reality it probably just needs a good cleaning out. The slightest bit of FOD in there can mess things up. Same pump on the CA and there is no screen and to make matters worse it pulls from where the metal is. They have a rebuild kit with gaskets, balls, springs and the such.
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Chris/CT ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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If you decide to re-build it, I have gaskets, small parts kit, I bought years ago from SLI to do one, don't think I will need the stuff. Also, have a couple used pumps I need to find homes for.
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Don't buy the rebuild kit. It has more parts you won't use than you will use.
5 small springs-4 big orings-1 small oring- 2 gaskets and free the spool valves most likely will fix it. If plungers are stuck or rollers worn out they won't come in the kit.
MACK
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Dakota Dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3962 |
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I did the pump on My CA last year. It had a couple broken springs in it . Agco dealer had them in stock I think I spent $20 on springs . I did wind up taking it apart 4 times befor it worked correctly. It only takes a very small piece of FOD to keep it from working correctly. so after you think you have it clean clean it again . There is really very little to go wrong inside the pump. I also made the pump gasket out of cerial box after I ripped the one I bought on the third disasembly.
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Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
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Have a bucket and pan full of clean diesel fuel to rinse parts in and good clean area so if you drop a part you can find it.
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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink I am a Russian Bot |
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Brian G. NY ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2244 |
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When my Dad and I rebuilt his WD back in '58 (I was 17 at the time), he gave me the task of rebuilding the hydraulic pump. Keep in mind the tractor had been thru a barn fire and then left to stand outside for a few years.
Anyway, I don't remenber exactly what all was involved except that all those balls, springs, O-rings and pistons looked a little scary.
I did complete the task and I'm still using that WD today.
Never had any problem with that pump!
So.........if a green 17 year old kid can rebuild a WD hyd. pump, I guess most anybody can. LOL
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Ryan Renko ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2325 |
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Thanks for all the imput guys!!! I'm not the kind of person to jump into something half @ss , so I value all your info!! Ryan
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Chris/CT ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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I have some pages here that I was going to try and post. I have problems scanning and posting to forum. If someone can take and post them maybe I can e-mail along.
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Chris/CT ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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I will forward the scans to you. Maybe you can post them here?
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Ryan Renko ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2325 |
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I'm not very computer literate either!!!!
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Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Sewanee, TN Points: 443 |
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I can help post as well. Will be in need of more detailed info for the pump on my 45.
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1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater"
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Ryan Renko ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2325 |
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I will say one thing. Anytime you can get parts and input about a problem with a 60 year old tractor you must have a good one!!!!!
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Steve M C/IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Location: shelbyville IL Points: 691 |
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I'd say that keeping track of the position and direction of the sleeves and valves in the bore the plungers feed would be the most important thing.They are not all the same but close enough to confuse you.Been too long since I was in there but it seems that one sleeve is different and it goes in front?Anyway,if you can take it apart carefully and note how it was,you should be alright.I have the luxury of an old AC service manual to help keep it straight.Difficult to not cut the o-rings on the unloader valve when pushing it past the inner passages. My 45 never did have good,consistent pressure.Replaced the springs and seats a couple times and even put a new unloader valve in but still no luck even with 11 shims in it.Even sent it to Bill at Sandy Lake a few years ago and still behaved the same.Not Bill's fault.He basically re-did all I had done years before other than fixing some worn internal linkage but still the same end result.I finally drilled the center of a flat washer and stuck it in there in place of the shims(even thicker)and now it's usable.Not perfect but better than it ever was.The odd thing is that it always did/does good at idle or just above but at part throttle or more it wants to "unload" before it fully extends the ram.The only thing I wonder about is the ball and seat after the unloader valve which has not been replaced.
I hope you have better luck than I did.Back in the day,my dad was the neighborhood mechanic and had worked on plenty of AC pumps but never could "fix" mine.
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Chris/CT ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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Sounds like maybe the body of your pump was defective or developed some internal problem not easily detected. Could have/can try another pump? There seems to be plenty used on the market, small parts are not to costly, worth a try.
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Ted J ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18897 |
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Well, here you go, thanks to Chris/CT. He emailed to me and I am posting them for you here.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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Steve M C/IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Location: shelbyville IL Points: 691 |
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Chris,I put all the guts in another body with the same result.I even put the good working pump off the WD on and it was better but not as good as when on the WD.Pump lobes look excellent.No play in brgs etc.You tell me what's wrong. I'm the guy who has the "unusual" things happen.It's apparently my lot in life.
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Chris/CT ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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Oh, well my theory is NG, somethings in life are never explained I guess!
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Chris/CT ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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Thanks for posting, Ted. I can print these out from originals a nd mail them to anyone if they are something you would like. These are from my "Old" AC service binder, actually has pictures of B/C pumps showing oil flow in "red" ink, alway's thought that color ink was unusual for older manuals.
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wdchalmers ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Mar 2011 Location: Gretna, NE Points: 1 |
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i have a 1949 wd that is leaking prefusly out of the adjusting screw on the front side of the tractoe. any thoughts? also when i set the screws to the manuals recs for hold position ( i built a 3 point for this tractor and need to hold some implements a certain heights) it doesnt seem to change response ( all the way up or down). Any help would be appreciated!
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Ryan Renko ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2325 |
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Maybe I am over thinking this. I just need a very good service manual. I'm not talking a manual from a farm store. I want to get one that dealer mechanics would use. I really want to understand this pump. Ryan
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Chris/CT ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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I'm not sure a dealer service manual is going to be all that more informative than what is currently available. In the years those tractors/pumps were made, the service manual was adequate for most AC mechanic's to understand and service this part. They are not that complicated, no rocket science degree needed. maybe call MACK and pick his brain some, he might have some more technical lit to send you.
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Ryan Renko ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2325 |
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Maybe I am over thinking this. Thanks Chris!! Ryan
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