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Questions about my D17 |
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arkfisher ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Sardis, AR Points: 128 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 31 Mar 2011 at 10:37pm |
I finally got my barn finished where I have a place to work on my restore projects! I've decided to work on the D17 first...I think that there may be less to fix on it mechanically than on the D15 that I have.First, I have a question about Series... What is the difference between series I, II, III, and IV? I'm pretty sure that mine is a series I, but it looks different than other Series I tractors that I've found on the internet.
Here is a pic: Serial # is 36222
![]() I know that I need a new exhaust manifold, but I want to make sure I get the right one. How do I know what part number that I need?
Here is a picture of the manifold on the tractor currently:
![]() I removed all of the sheet metal today, with exception of the fenders.
Next question is... Where do you guys start on a restore project? I want to get everything mechanically sound before I start on body work, but where should I begin? My thought was to start with the fuel tank and follow it to the carb, then plugs, wires, points, etc....
I would like to clean the 'ol beast up a little first though? Steam pressure washer?
Thanks in advance for all the help guys.
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D15 #3057
D17 #36222 F-12 Farmall #FS42332 |
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Matt (NEIA) ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Butler Co. IA Points: 168 |
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I think series four had live 2 way hydrollics, a first for AC but i could be wrong about that, i think that's when they switched to low compression ???
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1955 WD-45 with factory PS
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Orange Blood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053 |
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You have a series II, just like mine, except for the narrow front.
As far as where to start you are on the right track, most guys like to get her running, then fix other mechanical issues, then work on paint if that's where they want to end up. One thing I would caution about working on the engine first, is don't get the urge to drive her aroundright after getting her running, without at least looking into the rear galleys, i.e. tranny, diff, torque tube. the very minimum would be check the oil for wter, discoloration, smell etc. If all looks good, then go play. As far as what manifold you need, mine is threaded, but it still uses the straight muffler, this is what I believe stock is, but I want to open that up for discussion, my parts book on the tractor lists 0275485-3 as the manifold part number effective with serial number 320001 and up, since that is used through the end of production, and the series III & IV had the threaded manifold, I think it is right.
Hope this helps!
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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You have a series 2. I guess the way I've been working on mine is I had to overhaul my engine so once I had it out of the tractor, I've been working my way toward the rear starting with the front wheels. Anything worn, broken, or otherwise not working right has been fixed from the grille shell to the input shaft in the torque housing so far. Once I get it running again, I know I have noisy bearings in the final drives to fix...
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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