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AC WD45 
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
Points: 2060
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 Topic: WD45 frame separation question
Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 7:12pm |
I Am debating on pulling the frame from the tractor. Can this be done without removing the engine, clutch housing etc from the rear differential? I have a tractor dolly built for this sort of thing and would support the frame on jack stands. I need to get into the inside of the frame with the putty knife to get at the grease. It also seems like it'd be easier to paint that way.
If possible, I'd like to undo the four bolts that hold the frame to the fly wheel housing, and the four bolts at the rear, and then just roll the tractor away from the frame.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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JohnThomas
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Traverse City
Points: 332
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Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 7:19pm |
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That's a lot of work to clean out the channels WC... I made a bent tube up in a J and squashed the end a little ..fastened to my power washer and clean them right up. Make sure you put goggle's on tho!!!! :<)
I first soaked them in that Purple Cleaner from the auto supply store here...as I did most of the engine.
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Life is short...Make haste to be kind
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Alberta Phil
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
Points: 3868
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Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 7:22pm |
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You can do that, only just remove one frame rail at a time and clean the inside and paint then re-instsall and do the other side. Toughest part will probably be getting the front pedestal bolts out as they are often well rusted in place.
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wfmurray
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Bostic NC
Points: 1225
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Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 7:22pm |
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I read on hear you take one off at a time.
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Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Sewanee, TN
Points: 443
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Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 7:47pm |
I am debating doing the same thing on my WD45. I have asked this before. Do one side at a time and support the drive line under the clutch housing. With that plus the opposide side still in place, others have said this works well. I am interested in hearing more adivce too.
Jeff
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1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater"
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AC WD45
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
Points: 2060
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Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 7:52pm |
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OK. Sounds good. Those pedestal bolts where recently removed last fall so I could put a chain bar on. They all came loose with my breaker and a cheater pipe. Power washer is not an option. everything has been cleaned up and prepped for primer and there is just two much bare metal to involve water.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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Orange Blood
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Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4053
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Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 8:04pm |
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If you don't plan on moving it, don't worry about supporting anything, as long as you leave one side on and tight. If you are concerned about stressing something, throw a jack stand or floor jack under the bell housing. I did my 45 the same way, one frame at a time, with no supports, but don't start it or move it, and you will be fine.
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Thad in AR.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Arkansas
Points: 9560
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Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 8:32pm |
I just did my wc a couple months ago. I put blocks under the clutch housing and under the front of the engine. I left the angle iron front mount bolted to the engine with blocks under it sideways so the engine couldn't roll on it's side. The pic shows one frame rail left on one side but I pulled it off later without putting the other back on. 
Edited by Thad in AR. - 28 Mar 2011 at 8:35pm
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John (C-IL)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 9:01pm |
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