Best way to set float level on WD-45

Since I have problems setting the float level, how does everyone else do it? I tried the drill bit. But what is the distance from the bottom of the float to the carb surface where the halves go together. I have seen it done this way also. This shouldn't be that hard but for me it is.

I usually set them level by eye.

With the carbutetor upside down and the float needle in place and for sure closed, the drill bit or the ruler should work equally well.

The first thing in setting the float level is that the float needle must be closing. And it should shut off flow with less pressure upward than the weight of the float while the carburetor is upside down. I blow (lung power) on the inlet fitting and see how freely it takes air with the float lifted and how solidly it shuts off as I let the float begin to rest on the needle. If it doesn't shut off, I work on the needle and seat (preferably by trying another set) until I get that condition. Sometimes with metal parts it means polishing or grinding. That needle can be ground to the seat with a bit of apprasive just like grinding the valves in the engine head. That doesn't work with a neoprene tipped needle though.

If a needle and seat won't pass my blow test, its not going to work with gasoline whether gravity fed or supplied by a fuel pump.

After then carburetor is assembled, it would be a good idea to repeat my blow test with the carbureter right side up it should flow freely, and upside down it should stop flow. Roll it over a few times both directions to check for the float dragging on the float bowl.

Gerald J.

Level, by eye; after all, it ain't rocket science!  LOL

The drill bit shank is used as a "feeler gauge" to measure the distance from the top of the float to the flat of the top of the float bowl chamber, usually with the carburetor upside down, hopefully with the float need actually shutting off flow. A round rod or square bar even a rectangular bar of the specified thickness will work. But those writing the manual figure most shops will have more drill bits on hand than a collection of drill bit sized metal stock, though brass, aluminum or wood would do just as well.

Gerald J.

Gerald J.