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am i missing a part? |
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skip(MO) ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: kansas city Points: 192 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 03 Jan 2011 at 11:42am |
now that i have made space in the barn for the old girl, i finally am doing some repair work. i took the fuel gauge out because the gasket leaks and it always says 1/4 tank. i can handle the leak, but i'm not sure if i'm missing a piece or not. i see how it goes together, i see how the rising and lowering of the float turns the shaft that goes into the guage, but as that shaft turns, nothing happens to the guage. should there be another piece between that shaft and the guage? is something broken off the shaft or guage?
came off a d17. thanks, mike for the seat....my body appreciates it. http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff78/sa1765/100_6295.jpg http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff78/sa1765/100_6296.jpg
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Skyhighballoon(MO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
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Skip - glad the seat worked out...I assume you figured out the square tube mounting bracket in back and a few washers stacked up under the front bolt.
The needle in the guage and the float mechanism are magnetically coupled right behind the gauge. Maybe yours needs re-magnetized? Here's your pics: ![]() ![]() Mike |
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
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skip(MO) ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: kansas city Points: 192 |
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thanks for the picture help. i'm sure i could have poked around long enough to get it right after 5 or 6 attempts....but i knew a link would work too.
the seat wasn't an issue to mount. other than me making it difficult. bought the right size, but wrong thread for the bracket....so that was fun searching through the various hiding places of spare bolts to find the right one. then finding enough washers....and actually a small 1" nipple to fill the front gap. it's done now.
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skip(MO) ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: kansas city Points: 192 |
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okay, mike....or anyone. educate me. even magnetized i don't see how this should work. are you saying the small "U" piece of the shaft should be magnetized? are you saying that it's magnetism works through the back of the guage and turns the needle? if that's right, how the heck do i re-magnetize something? and from what you said above, the needle should also be magnetized? if so, i'm assuming opposite polarity?
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Skyhighballoon(MO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
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Skip - I don't know for sure 100% so I may get corrected here but I thought the needle inside was not magnetized but the "U" part was. I'm not sure if each size of the "U" had opposite polarity or not. Can you take another magnet and get the needle to turn by placing it to the back of gauge.
As far as re-magnetizing, I thought you could do that if you placed the part next to a very strong magnetic source. Here's one link from doing a google search. Maybe others that have done this to a gas gauge can chime in. http://www.ehow.com/how_4878360_old-magnets-using-neodymium-magnets.html Mike |
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
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