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WD 45 piston/sleeve question

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LouSWPA View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 10:15pm
I just tore down a WD-45 engine that I have had for quite awhile, came into my possession "locked up". I found rather new 4 1/8 inch after market pistons, but, the rings were froze to the sleeve real bad on two of them. I got the pistons out w/o doing damage to the pistons, but the rings and sleeves are toast. Can I have a 4 inch bore sleeve bored to 4 1/8 inch and use these pistons?
 
On a side note, this engine had fairly new piston/rings, bearings appeared to be newer, no shims on the rods, but the mains are shimmed. BUT, the cam bearings are so bad, I can wiggle the cam in them! Who in the world would go to all the trouble of pulling an engine, replacing the piston/rings/sleeves and probably bearings AND NOT THE CAM BEARINGS!
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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Steve M C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve M C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 10:28pm
Lou; 45's has precision rod but shimmed mains.The 4 1/8 sleeves I just put in had larger outside dia than the old ones(M&W) and were turned down where they fit in lower block.Used the thicker o-rings on theses new ones.Don't know how much "meat" is in std 4in sleeve wall.Unless boring is cheeeep,you can buy just sleeves.I think Jim D sells just sleeves(oktractor)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 10:41pm
Originally posted by Steve M C/IL Steve M C/IL wrote:

Lou; 45's has precision rod but shimmed mains.The 4 1/8 sleeves I just put in had larger outside dia than the old ones(M&W) and were turned down where they fit in lower block.Used the thicker o-rings on theses new ones.Don't know how much "meat" is in std 4in sleeve wall.Unless boring is cheeeep,you can buy just sleeves.I think Jim D sells just sleeves(oktractor)
 
Uh oh! I better pay a little closer attention. These are M&W pistons (and, I assume sleeves. I intended to use an almost new set of piston/sleeves that I salvaged from another engine that some poor soul botched the rebuild on and turned a new crank into junk. From what you are saying, they may not fit


Edited by LouSWPA - 01 Jan 2011 at 10:42pm
I am still confident of this;
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 10:50pm
the sleves you are talking about are likely Mahle/ Clevelite, they use that O ring and fit your description.  New cost about $60-$65 per hole.  Add it up and your gaskets, etc and an overhaul kit is likely going to cost you less.
 
The M&W sleves used a flat and smaller O ring.
 
I just bought a brand new set, but it's for something special.  I bought a whole kit, a friend is a dealer and prices were reasonable, I could buy the complete kit with valves, berrings etc, for about the same money as a set of sleves, gaskets and berrings.
 
Of the 4" sleves I've measured, you can't bore them to 4 1/8. 
 
Don't throw the 4 1/8 sleves away, they bore nicely for a .030 over automotive piston for someone messing around with a light duity pulling engine.  I'd even buy them if they were cheap, I need to set up a boreing bar one of these days and bore some for a project.
 
I do have a new set of Mahle 4 1/8 sleves here if you wish, and I have a decent set of used 4 1/8 ones that I power honed on a rigid hone and bore gauged, they had some rust and a wrist pin gouge, likely alright for a cheap fix, chore tractor or to use up some other used parts, but not for one that will get used hard


Edited by wi50 - 01 Jan 2011 at 10:52pm
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Steve M C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve M C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 2:41pm
the rest of the story...My loose crank pulley turned into a TOTAL rebuild.Started out just pull crank and get nose turned and pulley sleeved.Found 0-rings leaking antifreeze.Took crank for polish,really needed turned but was cracked.New crank.Gutted engine to replace 0-rings but top ring lands had excessive clearance(1980 circa M&W's).New Power Seal sleeve kits 4 1/8(M&W style but 6.5:1 instead of 7.3:1).These sleeves are larger dia than old M&W's but turned down at bottom bore dia and use the thicker 0-rings.If I knew at the beginning the new stuff was lower compression I'd followed Dr's orders and put the 170 or 175 AGCO guts in.Hindsight is great!Had the block line bored(no shims),decked and counterbores trued.Head got planed with new guides and valves.New cam bushings and transformed it to full flow oil system with guidence from DrAllis.It should last longer than me now. We were both born in 56.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 2:52pm
 lou if you have a old set of allis 4 inch sleeves i believe they can be bored to go to the 4 1/8. or as wi 50 mention a 413 chrysler had a bore of 4.188 and the piston has a two inch compression height and cost about 55 bucks a pieces from trw.  rods could have possibly been resized not to use shimms. In the case of reusing old pistons that have been run they are usually undersized than what they wher originally so boring and honing a sleeve to fit each one of them is the best way to do a used piston.

Edited by mlpankey - 02 Jan 2011 at 2:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 5:59pm
Originally posted by LouSWPA LouSWPA wrote:

I just tore down a WD-45 engine that I have had for quite awhile, came into my possession "locked up". I found rather new 4 1/8 inch after market pistons, but, the rings were froze to the sleeve real bad on two of them. I got the pistons out w/o doing damage to the pistons, but the rings and sleeves are toast. Can I have a 4 inch bore sleeve bored to 4 1/8 inch and use these pistons?
 
On a side note, this engine had fairly new piston/rings, bearings appeared to be newer, no shims on the rods, but the mains are shimmed. BUT, the cam bearings are so bad, I can wiggle the cam in them! Who in the world would go to all the trouble of pulling an engine, replacing the piston/rings/sleeves and probably bearings AND NOT THE CAM BEARINGS!
Lou, it was probably the same guy I got a 125 Cub Cadet with a K301 Kohler from several years ago. Someone put a new std rod on a crank that was too far out of round to clean up with a .010 rod and a new std piston. The cylinder was also so bad that a .030 over bore didn't fix it. Nice thing about that is the 301 block can be bored to fit a std 321 piston.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 7:05pm
I can't prove it but, I've always felt the 4 1/8" M&W sleeves were of "harder" better material than an A-C sleeve because they never showed the ring edge wear like an A-C sleeve did. I'd be concerned about boring an A-C sleeve and expecting it to last without possible breaking off of the flange at the top if the masterial is of poorer quality like I suspect.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 7:14pm
I may not be looking at the sleeve I think is a allis sleeve . but .0625 material removed all the way around isnt much. I was more concerned  at the depth of the oring grooves on the ones i was looking at boring plus most pistons are a 1/4 inch down or better just bore from the bottom and dont let the boring bar come all the way out to the ledge in question if I have .090 to .125 wall thickness I wouldnt worry with breakage.

Edited by mlpankey - 02 Jan 2011 at 7:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 7:19pm
I have measured the sleves and I'm pretty sure you can't bore 4" sleves to 4.125 and have any durability
 
I have measured the 4 1/8  Clevelite Mahle sleves in the O ring grove, to go to 4.155,  I think you will still have .090 left in the grove
 
In the morning I can measre a few and post.  THe CLevelite sleves use a larger O ring than M&W, but the Clevelite sleves are thicker than the M&W.
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 7:23pm
Originally posted by wi50 wi50 wrote:

I have measured the sleves and I'm pretty sure you can't bore 4" sleves to 4.125 and have any durability
 
I have measured the 4 1/8  Clevelite Mahle sleves in the O ring grove, to go to 4.155,  I think you will still have .090 left in the grove
 
In the morning I can measre a few and post.  THe CLevelite sleves use a larger O ring than M&W, but the Clevelite sleves are thicker than the M&W.
  I may be crazy but if the bore on the block is the same bore for sleeves to interchange in them then the 4 inch sleeve has to be .0625 thicker in wall than a 4.125

Edited by mlpankey - 02 Jan 2011 at 7:30pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 7:41pm
Also, every 4 1/8" bore sleeve I've ever seen has smaller diameter (thickness) O-rings than the A-C sleeves.....they must be worried about sleeve strength or they wouldn't do that, would they???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 7:49pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Also, every 4 1/8" bore sleeve I've ever seen has smaller diameter (thickness) O-rings than the A-C sleeves.....they must be worried about sleeve strength or they wouldn't do that, would they???
bigger od oring would require a deeper groove making for less wall thickness in the grove . I know as well as you do that some pullers have been boring one of the sleeves out to 4.250. I just dont know which one and I have heard of breakage in the oring grooves at 4 1/4 from one of them. I personally could be a little thinner than .090 if I knew the piston rings were above that thin area and nothing but piston skirt was there. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 8:11pm
I personally don't know of anyone boring an OEM sleeve to 4 1/4".....I only deal with 4 1/2" and 4 5/8" and that requires block boring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 8:19pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

I personally don't know of anyone boring an OEM sleeve to 4 1/4".....I only deal with 4 1/2" and 4 5/8" and that requires block boring.
OK I shouldn't implied you knew my mistake . I do know of some pullers that are boring and using the 427 truck piston .  I assumed  you had thought of it by asking for interest on manufactured sleeves at that bore. One of them told me He bore a gleanor combine engine that had stuck pistons to the 427 Chevy piston so I made another assumption that it would have had Allis sleeves in it.  He hasn't had any problems for two season but I have heard some are breaking the sleeve at the o'ring grooves when boring to 4.250.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 10:04pm
 Not really, the barrel of the 4" sleves is smaller OD than the barrel of the 4.125 sleves, well at least all the ones I've seen.  The top of the sleves is the same where the counterbore and top deck areas are, but the barrel is much smaller than the overbore sleves then tapers out for the O rings and bottom counterbore.  4.125 will not fit in a 4" sleve verry well, it gets to thin to live.
 
You'll never get any sleve made for the allis block to take a 4.25 piston and live.  If someone is than it won't live long, or be capeable of much power.  The M&W's use a small O ring, but there still isn't room, the barrel portion of the M&W liners are smaller diameter than the Clevelite.  The Clevelite-Mahle use a larger O ring, I beleve the O ring to be smaller than the OEM sleves, though I'd have to check to be sure,it's verry close.  
 
I was going to make some 4.25 or 4.28 bore liners to lightly press fit in the bottom counterbore, ther just isn't room for an O ring on the liner at that bore size.  If I rember correctly the bottom counterbore is only .060, maybe up to .090 (per side) over a 4.25.  I had measured things up and decided it could safely be done, but no o ring, useing a light fit and sealent instead.  I was going to make them from sutiable stock o  I got ahold of Quaker City casting, EZ slyder cylinder liners and was quoted $125 for finished liners to my dimensions to fit the Allis block with no modifications.  I beleve it is SOuthern Illinois Crankshaft (bot not certain) that has 4.25 bore liners in stock for them but they use an O ring and need to have the counterbore of the block cut for it.  I just figured that for the time and money, it was going to be 4.125 or slight variation or go for a 4.5-4.6 type bore
 
I'll measure in the morning and post the dimensions of the O ring groves in the sleves and the barrel diameter.
 
Dr Allis,
do you run a flange on top of the sleve in the larger bore sizes?  Or seat them in the bottom counterbore?  I've alwayse ran a top flange in the past, and pinned the bottom to help support the deck.  The counterbore seat is easier, but easy isn't alwayse right.  My neighbor has a boreing bar and I have a verry nice set of sleves from a John Deere 7.6L that I am putting into a block for a new engine.  I don't have to worry about any water, as the block will be dry and the cylinder head is solid. 
 


Edited by wi50 - 02 Jan 2011 at 10:30pm
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 10:17pm
Guys,
I appreciate all the info given here. Bottom line is, on this particular engine I'm just looking for the cheapest but reliable way to get this motor back together. If it smokes a tad, or consumes a little oil, no big deal, as long as it doesn't break something. It's going in a tractor with an end loader and won't be used that often.
Like I said, I have a set of real good, but used stock sleeves/pistons/rings that I planned to use.....as long as they fit.
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve M C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 10:24pm
My original M&W sleeves were thinned down through the main length and swelled back out just above the 0-ring area.The OD of entire sleeve is no larger than the 0-ring area.The new sleeves are a little larger OD all the way down then turned to smaller dia to fit in lower block bore.I didn't have a way to measure the diff but stuck one of those "C" shaped calipers with the thumb screw on them over both and it was maybe a 1/16in larger dia.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2011 at 6:28am
All I use is straight sleeve material and machine a .020" flange on the bottom and lightly press fit and loctite in the bottom bore.  Sleeve wall is 1/8th inch full length except where it is stepped on the bottom. Any good machine shop has this material available in hundreds of sizes as it can be used to repair a block with a bad hole and bring it back to Std size.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2011 at 7:09am
 
Lou you can get new 1/8" over sleeves from several sources and they could be cheaper than boring a sleeve over depending on who quote the work and the sleeves. Also as the Dr said I have not seen 1/8 over sleeves that used std o-rings but I am far from expert. Be carefull  when mix matching M&W to anyone else's 1/8" parts over as M&W used slightly differant bores and piston sizes than everyone else. As a matter of fact in the old M&W kits the pistons were matched to each sleeve individualy and you were warned not to mix them up.  I saved a set of used M&W pistons for our WD rebuild. Luckily my local NAPA machine shop guy has been around a while and reminded me about the M&W vs everyone else's bore deal.  He ordered in the sleeves and even though the pistons were not worn visably we had to knurle them to achieve acceptable skirt clearance with Clevite 4 1/8" sleeves.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2011 at 8:30am
where can i find the markings to figure out who manufactured the sleeves I have been taking measurments on . Wi 50 if the sleeve is  a 4 inch bore and is thinner looks like they would be to much slop requiring a larger diameter o ring with lesser depth cut into the sleeve bUt then the outer ring would need to be close or it could move side to side . The sleeve I measured is a 4 1/8 sleeve it can go 4.188 and be fine . The 37  4 in wc sleeve I will remeasure but i was thinking it was a good candidate for a 4.200 bore if not the 4.250 427 chevy truck piston. IF you interference fit the sleeve.002 then you dont need anything to else to keep the water out of the oil. I will talk to the fellow who is running the truck pistons again . He told me he didnt do anything but bore the sleeves that were in the block I will ask him if he knows who made the sleeve. He had no reason to lie to me .I just didnt ask enough questions I guess. WI 50 Be sure to use the .125 repair sleeves and not the thin wall .090 .

Edited by mlpankey - 03 Jan 2011 at 8:50am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2011 at 9:47am
I'm making my sleves from some thick John Deere liners from a 7.6 L diesel, they are hard, no electrolisis and long enough for good sleve stock, figured on leaving them at .150 wall, over a max bore of 4.625, or maybe 4.950 to keep it even, that way I can cut the top counterbore to 4.9, the flange counterbore to 5.05 and the bottom counterbore can be smaller.  I don't think I'll go for that much press fit, I don't plan on useing any water, and I want the ability to easily replace one if I score a liner.
 
I measured some OEM 4" sleves, a low hour Gleaner E engine that has never been apart,  and the 4" sleve measures 4.360 on the barrel, the O ring grove measures 4.28 at it's smallest point. 
 
Clevelite/Mahle sleves,  I have a new set here and an old used set, 4.450 barrel and 4.310 in the O ring grove. 
 
The top counterbore of a standard E and D-17 block is 4.525 and bottom is 4.475 if one was going to make sleves intended to go in a block with no modification.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2011 at 1:54pm
you can replace them easy with a .002 fit just run a weld up the center to draw them.
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