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Albow44 
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Joined: 25 May 2015
Location: PA
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 Topic: 912H Carb/Engine Trouble
Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 2:33pm |
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So, I've replaced the carburetor and she still won't stay running. After installing new carb and adjusting the valve/needle screws to the service manual recommendations it ran for 15-30 seconds then sputtered out again and won't restart. Any suggestions?
Thanks
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split51
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Guthrie, OK
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Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 3:08pm |
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Do you have good flow from the tank? Take the fuel line off at the carb and see if you have a constant stream. I had problems with the fittings at the tank being clogged causing slow fuel flow. My tractor would run for a short while and die, after sitting a few minutes, it would restart and run fine for a short while before dieing again.
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1929 20-35 sn17662
B1 w/snow blade
B10 w/sickle mower
B110 w/mower deck
B110 w/tiller
B112 w/grader blade
B210 w/plo
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Wade (IA)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Osceola, IA
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Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 7:16pm |
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Can u buy a replacement filter/ bung fitting or do you need to replace the entire tank? Those little strainers on the fitting gets smashed.
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Toscani NE SD
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Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 8:44pm |
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I just took the gas tank out and pulled the fuel screen out of my 912,lines where cracked bad and I wanted to see how plugged my screen was,blew the junk off and used a john deere new rubber bung cause its all I had at the time,there pretty universal everything went fine,i used some blue colored snowmobile hose I had lying around,fit good an I don't use any clamps,its snug enough
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Albow44
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Location: PA
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Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 9:14pm |
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Yeah, when I was doing all the electrical I took out the tank and replaced the bushing and lines and also cleaned the screen. I seem to be getting good flow from the tank and the fuel pump is pumping fuel just fine. The needle was messed up in the old carb, it was just pumping fuel right out of the air intake. When I put this new one on, it started up after a few cranks ran for a few seconds or so then puttered out and wouldn't restart.
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split51
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Location: Guthrie, OK
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Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 9:52pm |
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Have you checked to see if it's an ignition problem or fuel problem yet?
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1929 20-35 sn17662
B1 w/snow blade
B10 w/sickle mower
B110 w/mower deck
B110 w/tiller
B112 w/grader blade
B210 w/plo
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Albow44
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Location: PA
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Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 10:17pm |
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What exactly do you mean? Like I said it started then stopped, so I don't think it would be an ignition problem, unless I'm missing something it will also start and stop with starter fluid. As far as fuel goes, I'm pretty sure it's reaching the carburetor.
Edited by Albow44 - 02 Aug 2015 at 10:18pm
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Jim Hancock
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Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 11:58pm |
Hi Albow. After it starts and runs for a minute or less, do you have to wait for a couple of minutes or more to try and get it to fire off again? You commented that you did the electrical, did this include the points and condensor and/or coil? Or just the wiring harness to everything? If you have to wait a little bit, it sounds like the condensor and/or coil is heating up and breaking the circuit in the short time that it runs. Once it cools down, the circuit re-connects. Possibly, it might be the mag next to the flywheel. But, I'd wait on that and see if it's the coil and/or condensor and replace the points while in there, if you haven't been in there yet. You have changed the plug, right? It could also be going bad and heating up and break the circuit until it cools back down. And I'm guessing that the plug is wet when it's not firing off, indicating that gas is getting to the cylinder.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 03 Aug 2015 at 12:07am
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Albow44
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Posted: 03 Aug 2015 at 12:15pm |
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Ok, I haven't replaced the coil or condenser as of yet but the plug was changed for sure. Call me stupid, but what are the "points" everyone keeps referring to? Are these points different from the ignition coil and condenser?
Edited by Albow44 - 03 Aug 2015 at 12:16pm
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Dgrader
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Posted: 03 Aug 2015 at 12:49pm |
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Yeah they are. Wire runs from the coil to the points. A small metal cover is over them. Down left of the carb.
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Ya cain't fix stupid.
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Jim Hancock
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Posted: 03 Aug 2015 at 12:57pm |
They're under the vertical rectangle box. It's cheaper to replace those than the coil and that "should" take care of it. If I remember right from your previous post when you picked this unit up, you've already replaced the ignition module. If it still doesn't, then look at your coil as it's next. Hang in there and we'll get you there.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 03 Aug 2015 at 12:58pm
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Albow44
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Posted: 03 Aug 2015 at 5:23pm |
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Yep, all of the other electrical components have been replaced. I just looked at the points, they seem nice and shiny, but that's really all I can say lol. I believe I can get it at tractor supply for around $12, and that includes the condenser. The coil is 6volt right? TSC sells them for around $25, I may as well just replace it all, looks like the coil may have gotten wet.
Edited by Albow44 - 03 Aug 2015 at 5:24pm
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Jim Hancock
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Posted: 03 Aug 2015 at 9:40pm |
Hi Albow. The points may look ok and they might be, but the condensor may have gone/or is going bad and it's a good idea to replace the points while you're there being as you don't know how long it's been since they were all installed the last time. The coil should be for a 12v system.
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Albow44
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Posted: 04 Aug 2015 at 5:36pm |
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I'm getting ready to order the parts, my engine is a K301S. Does that fall between the K91-K361 series? Thanks for all the help guys!
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Jim Hancock
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Posted: 04 Aug 2015 at 7:11pm |
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Yes, it does.
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split51
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Posted: 04 Aug 2015 at 7:53pm |
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One question for Jim. If it has an ignition module, it shouldn't have a coil would it? Sounds like the module went out and someone wired a coil into the system. i have never had a K301S but none of my Briggs or my Kohler Magnums run a coil.
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1929 20-35 sn17662
B1 w/snow blade
B10 w/sickle mower
B110 w/mower deck
B110 w/tiller
B112 w/grader blade
B210 w/plo
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Albow44
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Posted: 04 Aug 2015 at 7:59pm |
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I believe he was referring to the actual key ignition I replaced.
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Jim Hancock
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Posted: 04 Aug 2015 at 8:58pm |
You are correct Split51. Good call. I stand corrected. Thanks. I think that I got my two engines mixed up at that late hour. My 301s and 321s has an external coil along with points and condensor. Briggs and Magnums don't have an external coil. Now with 44's description, he replaced the key switch, which I apparently misinterpreted. I've replaced "ignition modules", as they're called now, next to the flywheel.
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split51
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Posted: 04 Aug 2015 at 10:28pm |
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My mistake, Thought you were referring to a (mag) ignition module.
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1929 20-35 sn17662
B1 w/snow blade
B10 w/sickle mower
B110 w/mower deck
B110 w/tiller
B112 w/grader blade
B210 w/plo
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Jim Hancock
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Location: EL Reno, Ok.
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Posted: 04 Aug 2015 at 10:39pm |
I was. I've also had them called a magneto. As you well know, it's the passing of the magnets on the flywheel the generates the electric impulse to the spark plug. Nowadays, one can get a "solid state" 'ignition module' and do away with the points and condensor. I did that with my 8hp Briggs on the Sears Rotospader.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 04 Aug 2015 at 10:42pm
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Albow44
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Posted: 05 Aug 2015 at 8:07am |
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Parts are ordered! Thanks Jim, I'll let you know if this stuff does the trick.
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Albow44
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Posted: 14 Aug 2015 at 2:42pm |
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Ok. I have all of the parts in place, I just need instructions on how to hook up and set the breaker points.
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Jim Hancock
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Posted: 17 Aug 2015 at 10:25am |
Hi Albow. Rotate the engine to a high lobe- which opens the points to a set gap- I'm guessing about.020, maybe .018, measure it with the feeler gauge. Pay attention to what's placed where. Set the new points and condensor in and slide the condensor down the clamp to get the gap and tighten the clamp. Attach the wire back to where it was with the old condensor. See if the engine will start now. If so, replace the cap. If not, check and/or adjust the gap a tic smaller or wider.
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Albow44
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Posted: 23 Aug 2015 at 4:29pm |
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Well, everything is hooked up but she still won't start. Everything seems to be sparking, and I put a new plug in just in case, but it just won't start.
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Albow44
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Posted: 23 Aug 2015 at 9:42pm |
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The only thing I haven't replaced, other than the magneto, is the cable from the plug to the coil.
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HudCo
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 11:26am |
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spray and clean with either on the pionts to make sure there is no oil onthe pionts
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HudCo
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 11:30am |
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also check valve lash and do a leak down test and see if the valves are sealing
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Albow44
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Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 5:01pm |
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Clean the points with ether? Also, I've never done a leak down test...
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