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tnrichkris22 
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Joined: 15 Nov 2010
Location: greeneville tn
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 Topic: wd hydraulics problem
Posted: 15 Nov 2010 at 2:39pm |
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i have a 1954 wd tractor i am have problems with my hydraulics. i can get them to go up an down and they will stay up . the problem i am having is i cant get them to hold where i want them so i can brush hog. any info would be a big help thanks
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Matt MN
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Silver lake MN
Points: 1491
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Posted: 15 Nov 2010 at 3:02pm |
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they actuall need some weight on the lift arms to go down. And for the "hold" position follow the set-up directions on the hydraulics.
there are 3 different settings, delayed lift, hold, and draw bar control.
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Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!
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tnrichkris22
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Joined: 15 Nov 2010
Location: greeneville tn
Points: 6
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Posted: 15 Nov 2010 at 7:43pm |
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i have tried all the settings on it but it will only go up an down.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22823
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Posted: 15 Nov 2010 at 7:51pm |
I have 2 cylinder stops on my rotary mower. Let it down to the stops and go, no messing with the hold position control. http://www.depthstop.com/why-grip-rite.htmIt would be easy to make something up that will hold the mower where you want it.
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fixer1958
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Joined: 13 Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Points: 2434
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Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 7:23am |
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I made stops for when I'm mowing. I never was able to get the hold to work more than a minute or two at a time. I've tried on two WD's and one WD45. Stops are easier and more consistent.
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jjwo
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Wapak, Ohio
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Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 7:39am |
I and a lot of others have used a lengthof chain, it works.
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Bill Long
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Points: 4556
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Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 8:16am |
If the hold position does not work consistantly you probably have a problem with the valve in the bottle top of the pump. It can be removed and rebuilt or perhaps just cleaned since sometimes there is some dirt in there.
That said, I have to agree with what is said above about chains or stops. Works good and does not present a large job.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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TedBuiskerN.IL.
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Davis, IL.
Points: 1959
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Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 11:27am |
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I cut two pieces of pipe that will fit around the lift cylinder shaft. Pull the pins at the lift arm end of the cylinders, slip the pipes over the cylinder shafts and a cheap and easy positive stop. Works good.
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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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fixer1958
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Joined: 13 Feb 2010
Location: kansas
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Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 12:33pm |
 TedBuiskerN.IL. wrote:
I cut two pieces of pipe that will fit around the lift cylinder shaft. Pull the pins at the lift arm end of the cylinders, slip the pipes over the cylinder shafts and a cheap and easy positive stop. Works good. |
I tried that at first and considered it to much work. Especially if I wanted to change the height. My FIL told me that they made a factory setup which amounted to a piece of 2" angle iron attached to the LS where it bolts to the clutch footrest. Has a hole in it where a rod goes through. Attach a rod to the end of the cylinder and run the rod through the hole and use a stop of somekind.
I upgraded and have them on both sides and use 1 1/8" rod with holes drilled every 3/4" for the 8" of travel and use hardened pins. Works a whole heck of alot better and easy.
I tried 7/8" rod and kept bending them. i have tried 4 different ways of doing it and this is by far the best for me.
I would take a pic but my leg is bunged up and I can't get out there.
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tnrichkris22
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Joined: 15 Nov 2010
Location: greeneville tn
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Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 9:23pm |
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thanks everyone for the helpful info.... fixer 1958 how did you attach the rods to the cylinder
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fixer1958
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Location: kansas
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Posted: 17 Nov 2010 at 7:50am |
I welded an approx. 2"x 4"x 1/4" piece of flat iron offset to the end of the rod. Drilled I think a 7/16" hole in it and enlarged the hole in the lift arms and cylinder. Made some longer pins and use hairpins clips to hold the whole mess together.
I would recommend 3"x3" x 3/8" angle that mounts on the frame rail because it will bend if you have a heavy mower and drop it alot. Same goes with the rods also. That's why I changed to a 1 1/8" rod.
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