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Fellenz 
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Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Location: Phelps, NY
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 Topic: How to pull sleeves on a 160
Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 2:44pm |
I've been doing some more work on the 160 in the shop and have a pretty good idea of what I need to do to get it running well again thanks to a friend stopping by and giving me some tips.
Right now I have just finished pulling the pistons and need to pull the sleeves next. I don't know how tight of a press fit it is that holds them in so I wanted to get some advice before I tried to tackle this blindly. What is the best way to go about this? Thanks! Erik
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kip in cny
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 3:56pm |
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not to be a smart butt Your going to need a sleeve puller maybe someone can post a photo of theirs
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160 CA 920diesel 5020 HD-3
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Fellenz
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 4:04pm |
 kip in cny wrote:
not to be a smart butt Your going to need a sleeve puller maybe someone can post a photo of theirs |
Yup, I figured as much, I did some looking around after I posted my question and found a few examples. I guess it's time to go tool hunting! Now for a better question. Does anyone have a recommendation for a sleeve puller?
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 6:29pm |
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perkins dry sleeves are in there very tight. Generally need a hydraulic sleeve puller. If the sleeves look good, I wouldn't pull them out. A few minutes with a hone may make it last a little while. You probably need sleeve and piston assemblies though, since this one scored a piston, or had a broken ring? Cant remember. good luck. Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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BrettPhillips
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 6:53pm |
They will be scrap once you remove them, so an easy way to do it is to run several beads of weld down the length of the ID (parallel to the axis of the bore). Set the welder to run cold, and don't use a rod that gives a lot of penetration (NO 5P or 6010!!). The welding will shrink them to the point that they will slide out by hand. Install the new ones by chilling them in dry ice or liquid nitrogen (best) and warming up the block with a torch or space heater (a hundred degrees will likely be plenty), then slip them into place as quickly as possible. (EDIT: Deleted wrong info on boring liners. I engaged my keyboard before engaging my brain) I would let the machine shop install them. That way, you don't have to worry about scrapping a new liner if it gets hung up during installation.
Edited by BrettPhillips - 28 Oct 2010 at 7:56pm
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Fellenz
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 7:16pm |
injpumpEd wrote:
perkins dry sleeves are in there very tight. Generally need a hydraulic sleeve puller. If the sleeves look good, I wouldn't pull them out. A few minutes with a hone may make it last a little while. You probably need sleeve and piston assemblies though, since this one scored a piston, or had a broken ring? Cant remember. good luck. Ed.
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Two of the three sleeves are cracked so they will have to come out, the third looks to be in OK (not great) condition and I was planning to replace all three as it shouldn't be much more work than removing two and I'd feel better having everything new.
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Fellenz
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 7:20pm |
Brett, I was reading about the welding technique but wanted to keep that as a last resort as I'm rebuilding the engine in the tractor and don't want to risk having any weld spatter fall on the crankshaft, I know that's a pretty minimal risk but I'd like to avoid it if I can. I was not aware that the new liners would have to be finish bored after installation, can you tell me more about this?
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BrettPhillips
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 7:54pm |
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After I wrote that post (perfect time, right?), I pulled the I&T manual for the MF 50 (also used the 3-152 Perkins) that we once had and re-educated myself. The manual says nothing about boring after installation, but I really thought that we had to bore ours when we rebuilt it, but that was over 20 years ago. I guess I might be confused with the 8N Ford I once rebuilt for a friend... I apologize for the misinformation. BTW, there is lots of information on the Perkins 152 at the YT Massey Ferguson forum. I'm sure you will find it more reliable than what I posted.
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j.w.freck
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 8:34pm |
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i have removed several sleeves with a block of oak and a big hammer.once broken loose they come out really easy.the main thing is to make really sure the "o" ring seating surface in the block is super clean.i use vasoline on the "o" rings and plenty of it.when the sleeves are installoed make sure you have .004-.006 stand out on the top of the sleeves above the top surface of the block.good luck
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 8:42pm |
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JW, they are talking about dry sleeves. They won't come out like wet sleeves that you're talking about, whole different animal.
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 9:13pm |
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very important to hone the block a little and clean the parent bores before freezing and pressing in the new sleeves. They will come out hard all the way, and you dont want it to fit too tight or it will distort the inside. We used to hone the block until you could hand fit the sleeves half way down, this was on 354's in White 2-105's.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Fellenz
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Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 6:35am |
Thanks for all the advice.
I will ask around and see if anyone has a sleeve puller I can borrow for the job, failing that I will probably make my own puller in the shop. I will keep welding in mind as a last resort though I would prefer not to give myself the chance to make a real mess of this overhaul. Thanks everyone! Erik
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gcalent
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Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 9:05am |
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On a Perkins we normaly need to true up the sleeves after install anyway, boring bar or a hone. I personaly don`t care for the weld method, we usualy just bore them out paper thin and remove them no damage to the block that way. there is not much of a lip on these sleeves to get a sleeve puller on and they are usualy very hard to move.
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Pullin With AC
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paulinkansas
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Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 9:14am |
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I used a 1" thick metal bar for the top section of my sleeve puller. It was a towbar that I found at a scrapyard, and it had a 5/8" hole in it that I put the allthread rod through. For the puck, I used some 1/2" stock and welded on some rib reinforcements on the side. It looked like a pice of C channel when done (the puck).
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DMiller
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Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 9:15am |
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I have also done the weld method a few times, a few with bad results as the sleeves had 'grown' to the block and the welding damaged the bore to the extent we had to true hone the cylinder bores anyway. If a puller is not readily available I would separate the tractor from engine and take it to a machine shop to have sleeves removed/installed and properly fit honed for the pistons. It will also be a good time to tank the block and see to it that any time built residues are removed from oil galleries and the water jacket.
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