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grebma 
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Joined: 09 Oct 2010
Location: central MN
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 Topic: D14 final drive fluid plug
Posted: 09 Oct 2010 at 3:42pm |
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Hi I have a D14 that I want to check and probably add fluid to the final drives. First, I can't even find the plug(s) to check or add fluid. Can anyone tell me where they are? Next, my manual says to use SAE 20W. Is this correct? I would think that since it's a final drive unit it would need more like a 80W or 90W. Any help you may have is appreciated!
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
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Posted: 09 Oct 2010 at 4:02pm |
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One needs to remove the pan from the bottom of the final to remove/add fluid. There is a pipe plug on the pan to check the fluid levels. I always use 80 wt gear oil in the finals.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Rogers
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Georgia
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Posted: 09 Oct 2010 at 7:05pm |
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Like Greg says there is a plug on the pan. It is to the inside. I use the universal hydraulic/transmission fluid equivalent to AGCO 821 fluid for the final drives. It is the equivalent to the 20W oil specified in the manual.
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Think for yourself and be your own expert. Be willing to change your mind; however, willingness to change your mind doesn’t mean that you will. Blindly following any path is the pinnacle of insanity.
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GregLawlerMinn
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Posted: 09 Oct 2010 at 9:38pm |
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I use a suction gun with a small diameter plastic tube that goes into the fill plug on the side. Works good to suck out the old fluid and to fill with fresh fluid. However, I generally remove the pans on a "new" tractor just to clean out the gunk (have seen, and smelled, some awful messes in the old tractors). After that I use the suction gun to change fluids.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Brian G. NY
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: 12194
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 8:42am |
Somebody please answer this question. Why do the manuals for the B and CA call for 20W at all times, while the C manual calls for 140W above 32 deg and 90W below 32 deg?
The WC manual even calls for 250W above 32 deg and 140W below 32 deg.
Both the WD-45 and D-17 manuals call for 80W EP at all times.
I always thought there was an error in the B and CA manuals??
I can see modern 80 or 90 gear lube being used in place of 120 or 140 but the difference between 80W and 20W just seems too big a leap in my mind.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 9:39am |
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Many specs on fluids have changed over the years as the additive packages and lube properties have changed in oil. Multi weight oils in both gear lube and engine oil are common now as are anti-wear, anti-foam properties. water dispersent additives are also used in some applications. 85/120 or other such nombers in GL5 lubes or the Universal trans-hyd fluids have replaced some applications.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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firebrick43
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Joined: 10 Dec 2009
Location: Warren County
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 10:33am |
 Brian G. NY wrote:
I can see modern 80 or 90 gear lube being used in place of 120 or 140 but the difference between 80W and 20W just seems too big a leap in my mind. |
You have to remember that gear oil viscosity is rated different than motor oil. Why I don't know? 75 weight gear oil is equivalent to 10 weight motor oil in viscosity. That does mean you should neccessarly switch them as the gear oil will contain high pressure additives and most dino oils shear very easily in gear trains. 75 gear = 10 motor 80 gear = 20 motor 85 gear = 30 motor 90 gear = 40/50 motor 140 gear = 60 plus motor *many modern transmissions call for 30w synchromesh oil which is synthetic. Most gear lubricants that are GL-5 can eat up brass/bronze synchronizers* Most motor cycles have used motor oil for quite some time and even harley you can use a gear dino oil or a synthetic motor oil without friction modifiers(causes wet clutch slippage) in their tranny.
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 2:41pm |
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But why 140/120 gear lube in the C and 20W in the B? Was Allis testing and using the repair results as a means of evaluation? I might consider using modern Hytran oil in the final drives but never straight 20W engine oil!
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norm [ind]
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 6:33pm |
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requiremebts are stiil the same today lighter oils were used for the hydraulics then [nohydraulics then the heavier oils were recomended] it was in the original manuals
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Rick of HopeIN
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 6:57pm |
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Seems like I remember being told that 20W in the finals of a B was a printing mistake. The final drive oil stay separate from the hydraulics so there is no need to lighten it up. Although in very cold weather that 90W gets mighty stiff, sort of like a built in parking brake.
Edited by Rick of HopeIN - 10 Oct 2010 at 8:00pm
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 9:26pm |
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Yeah Norm, but...............The B and C were essentially the same tractor. The C manual says 140/120 and the B manual says 20W. I still say it don't make no sense!!
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grebma
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 1:28pm |
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wow thanks for all the info. It looks like the 20W oil is OK to use. Also, I did find the plugs on the final drives. I just had to lay on the floor and look! Couldn't see them from a standing point.
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Rick of HopeIN
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 7:48pm |
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I just saw my D14 book says 20W in the finals too. Only the transmission case gets 80W. I always run the heavy stuff in my B finals.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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norm [ind]
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 8:29pm |
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do not beleive eveything printed in the books why is a b pictured in the wd book being cranked ?????????? for starting it
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Rick of HopeIN
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 9:39pm |
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You did not read close enough Norm. The recommendation was if your WD would not start, first see if you can crank start the B, then use it to pull start the WD.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
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Posted: 12 Oct 2010 at 8:26am |
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LOL - Now that was funny Rick! Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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