D-14

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   Guys I'm new to the scene and I am starting a project of rebuilding a D-14 with a gas engine. I am wanting to rebuild the engine, install a new clutch and re-line the brakes. These are the main items and I am curious of what this work should cost, just a ballpark idea. this tractor is running so its a good candidate for a average overhaul.  I will do the wrench turning myself just the cost of machine work and new parts is what I am curious about.
Thanks,

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fat boy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 06 Oct 2010 Location: Augusta Ga Points: 2	Post Options Post Reply Quote fat boy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D-14 Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 11:12am
	Guys I'm new to the scene and I am starting a project of rebuilding a D-14 with a gas engine. I am wanting to rebuild the engine, install a new clutch and re-line the brakes. These are the main items and I am curious of what this work should cost, just a ballpark idea. this tractor is running so its a good candidate for a average overhaul. I will do the wrench turning myself just the cost of machine work and new parts is what I am curious about. Thanks,

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Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 12:09pm
	It all depends on what your engine needs to put it back in shape. One of the sponsors of this site is Sandy Lake Implement. I have gotten nearly everything to rebuild my D17 engine. I highly recommend them for parts. I will also say avoid anything made in the "Land of Almost Right" (China). If you plan to use the tractor for more than a yard ornament, you will never regret using good parts. Call Sandy Lake and talk to Bill, Brenda, or Betty. They know their stuff.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Gary in da UP Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EUP of Mi. Points: 1885	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gary in da UP Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 12:18pm
	Budget 3 grand, and see how far that takes you.

Rogers Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Georgia Points: 2176	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rogers Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 12:34pm
	Off the cuff I'd say: $600 engine kit, $200 clutch and bearing, and a $75 break lining kit minimum. With miscellaneous material you are looking at $1100 dollars. If you have to rebuild the heads add another $450, and cam bearings and shaft add $250. My best guess if you go all out on the engine rebuild, clutch and breaks you are looking at $1800 to $2000 with everything internal. Bare minimum somewhere around $1100. Hope that helps.
	Think for yourself and be your own expert. Be willing to change your mind; however, willingness to change your mind doesn’t mean that you will. Blindly following any path is the pinnacle of insanity.

jaybmiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 23473	Post Options Post Reply Quote jaybmiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 3:44pm
	Be aware that 'relining the brakes' will almost certainly include rebuilding the rockshaft hydraulic cylinder and line,new seals for the rear end and gee, while you're at it maybe some new bearings for the bull drives. Oh, yeah, if the PTO engage levere has a bit of oil weeping out, best fix that oring while you have the rear of the tractor split.... When you do the clutch, be sure to put in new throwout bearing and the pilot bearing as well, seeing how you have the front half split.... Be sure to take lots of picturs of where stuff 'was' before you tear her apart.......
	3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

Dave H Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central IL Points: 3527	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dave H Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 4:58pm
	I think Gary has been there and done that. The very reason that I don't keep track of the cost. I spend it on the D 15 II when I got it. One thing on the clutch. There is a shop in the local town that is titled clutch and brake. They did the D 15 clutch and resurfaced the flywheel and there was no hastle with core stuff if ordered on the interned and the price was less.

Gary in da UP Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EUP of Mi. Points: 1885	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gary in da UP Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 5:30pm
	fat boy, the really hard core Allis addicts will be along shortly , a good whiff of 50 year old 80/90 will suck them in; good topic for a first post, I'm sure you'll get you a lot of response. Your plan concentrates on running & stopping, don't overlook steering. As you are an unknown here as far as tools and ability , fill us in so your profile leads to pertinate answers and this could be a very long - lived thread, especially if you share pictures of your project. Be aware that not all advice , including mine, may not be applicable in your case.

Rick of HopeIN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1324	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rick of HopeIN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 5:46pm
	My 51B had no brakes on one side. Opened it up and found that a mouse family had slid the drum out of the way to make room for a condo and sewage system. Almost two years later almost every cover had been removed and many parts replaced. It would scare me to death if I ever kept track of the costs but I did it a few dollars at a time and enjoyed every step. Still work on it today. Should bring a 57 D14 home Friday. Needs brakes redone.... Oh no! Here we go again.
	1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless

Rogers Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Georgia Points: 2176	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rogers Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 9:27pm
	I assumed that you will not use AGCO parts. I would stick with American made as much as possible though on the internal engine parts. If you go with AGCO parts then 3 grand is about right to get it running right. With you doing all the work yourself and good parts I stick by the $1100 minimum. I expect that it will be $2000. If you do it all and go through all the work then you've almost got to paint it. It will be worth every penny if you are doing it for yourself. My advice is to do it all. You won't regret it, and that 14 will last forever after a rebuild.
	Think for yourself and be your own expert. Be willing to change your mind; however, willingness to change your mind doesn’t mean that you will. Blindly following any path is the pinnacle of insanity.

DSeries4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7379	Post Options Post Reply Quote DSeries4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 9:51pm
	Always expect to spend more when you start tearing down! The pivot on the front axle always gets overlooked until it breaks. If the engine is coming out, you might want to get a new pivot pin welded on. Had the local machine shop do mine.

fat boy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 06 Oct 2010 Location: Augusta Ga Points: 2	Post Options Post Reply Quote fat boy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 7:27am
	Thanks for the input guys! I plan on doing 90% of the work and I know I got my work cut out for myself. I have a parts tractor and one that runs, the one that runs has a tricycle front end and the other one has a wide front end and I'm going to swap them around because I like the wide front end better. When I was a teenager I was driving an Oliver row crop 77 and it had a tricycle front end and as I proceeded to cross a plowed field I ran of in a low spot and the steering wheel almost took my thumbs off and at that point I made a decision that I didn't like tricycle front ends anymore. Hahahaha

Dave Richards (WV) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fairmont, WV Points: 881	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dave Richards (WV) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 9:39am
	FB, I like the WFE on the 14 also, but want to let you know, when hitting a ditch or dead furrow, the WFE will Whack you hand almost as bad. That's why I type funny. (The bad spelling comes from trying to hand crank a WD45 with distributor stuck on advance.)