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Fred 
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Joined: 28 Jul 2010
Location: Laurel Delaware
Points: 48
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 Topic: Final Drive Allis Chalmers Tractor B
Posted: 29 Aug 2010 at 9:42am |
There is no doubt that my bearings are bad in the final drive on the right side of my Allis Chalmers B. Since the shaft rocks back and forth and in and out and the seal is dangling on the shaft like a loose wedding ring. I thought of putting a whole complete used final drive assembly but the tractor salvage yard in my town which is about 8 miles away wants $200.00 and I have to take it off. He has at least a half of dozen to choose from. I am thinking that it would be better to repair mine if I'm able to get the bearings and hopefully that the shaft is ok. All the rollers are out of the bearing, they came out with the dirt from under the brake drum.
My question is Help! I have an engine hoist so I'm sure that will assist in the removal of the unit. I don't have any gear pullers. Has anyone attempted this job and have any words of advise. Did I mention that I'm 70 years old and have only half of my strength, well I'm estimating it at half. My neighbor who is willing to help is 75 years old. Both of us are taking water pills so there will be many a bathroom breaks.
Seriously I need to fix this so any help will be appreciated.
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Jeff Z. NY
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Points: 7326
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Posted: 29 Aug 2010 at 9:49am |
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If I remember right those bearings are top $$$$$$$$.
You may want to check on bearing prices first.
I think then the $200.00 deal will sound good.
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Dusty MI
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Charlotte, Mi
Points: 5058
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Posted: 29 Aug 2010 at 10:04am |
But how good are the bearings on the $200.00 deal.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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pumpkin man
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Joined: 10 Apr 2010
Location: Michigan
Points: 106
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Posted: 29 Aug 2010 at 11:21am |
Fred go to the scrap yard take your tools mbefor you take the housing off remove the bearing cap and check the shaft for slop you will have end play with end cap off if no good try another one 200 is not a bad price dont forget to get the shaft out you have to take the brake drum off if you break it more $ I am 70 to so do it the ez way then take the old apart keep the good bearings brake drum ect. scrap the rest
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olivershagnasty
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Beautancus, NC
Points: 29
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Posted: 29 Aug 2010 at 9:45pm |
Hey fred, I have one I will give you - The only problem is it is in North Carolina. If you want it, it is yours
Shagnasty
Beautancus NC
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bigfish_Oh
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: West Liberty,Oh
Points: 1226
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Posted: 29 Aug 2010 at 11:40pm |
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This is how I end up with more tractors and 1/2 tractors !!!! If it wasn't for RAiken I could find a junk rolling B for $2-400. around here !!!
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1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p.
1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe
1951 WD, factory p.s.
1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale
2014 HD Tri Glide
2009 GMC CC SLT Dually
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Ken in Texas
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
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Posted: 30 Aug 2010 at 8:01am |
Best way to go is find a good final drive and swap the entire assembly out. $200 seems a bit high for a U-pull-it unless the yard can say for sure the unit is completely good and useable as is, Brakes, wheel and all.
Early Bs and later Bs are different . If you want a match for what you have, pay attention to all details to be sure they match They all will bolt up to the tranny the same and work provided the axles are the same to work with your wheel type.
If yours is the most common B final drive with the splined axle and one big nut that holds the wheel on you should be able to find one for around a $100. A good indicator of usefullness is a Big nut that looks like new indicating the wheel has not been off the axle. Swap out the whole thing wheel and all.
There is no left or right final drive. They are the same and will interchange on a B. The brake band may be backwards but that is a easy fix.
They are heavy and a portable engine hoist type floor crane is almost a necessity to make the swap easy. Put a new axle seal in the tranny while you at it. Good luck
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Fred
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Joined: 28 Jul 2010
Location: Laurel Delaware
Points: 48
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Posted: 19 Sep 2010 at 3:24pm |
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Ok guys, I made the decision to swap it but instead of going the 8 miles to the local tractor salvage yard we drove 1800 miles round trip and got two final drives for $150.00. They were already off the tractor and he helped me load them up. The guy even threw in a worn out Ross steering box which was good for me as I needed some parts off it for my tractor. On taking off the pan of the old one I found that there was about a 50/50 mix of water and oil and after cleaning up and sandblasting the pan my wife wants it in the kitchen for straining spagetti. I took the pan off one of the replacement ones it was full of oil and everything looked beautiful in there. The splines are in good shape. It goes to show you that care and maintenance is very important since the two I got in Michigan were actually from somewhere in the 40's and my B is a 52. We made it a nice camping trip to Michigan and got to visit to the Henry Ford Mueseum which we were planning to go to someday. We also visited Steiner's and left them some of our money. They gave me a nice hat! Thank you guys for all you advise. By the way I also got the wheels with it.
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R Aiken
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wc Ohio
Points: 1370
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Posted: 19 Sep 2010 at 3:55pm |
 bigfish_Oh wrote:
This is how I end up with more tractors and 1/2 tractors !!!! If it wasn't for RAiken I could find a junk rolling B for $2-400. around here !!! |
What do you mean? I dont have them all. Only bought 1 junker and used parts off it revive the rest.
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Fred
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Joined: 28 Jul 2010
Location: Laurel Delaware
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Posted: 29 Sep 2010 at 6:34pm |
It was good decision to replace to whole entire drive. I took the old existing one apart and found that the bearing was gone. Some of the rollers may have gotten between the teeth and sheared some of them almost completely off, but left just enough to still funtion if you call that functioning, clunk clunk clunk.
Thanks guys for all your help.
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