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D19 snap coupler arms |
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D-Terp ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: IL Points: 3 |
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D19 snap coupler arm hydraulic problem. When I raise the arms they will not stay up they just go back down. HELP
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7379 |
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Sounds like the tube that feeds the lift cylinder has a leak in it and will need to be replaced.
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D-Terp ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: IL Points: 3 |
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Thanks. I have not notice any oil leaks but I will check it out.
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Denis in MI ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Norvell, MI Points: 832 |
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If it is like a D-17 the tube is inside the rear end
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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The check ball and seat in the stack valve needs to be replaced. Common problem on the D19's.
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ALLIS EXPRESS!
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Brad Kelley ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 02 Jun 2010 Points: 13 |
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I'm having some trouble with the hydraulic lift on my 1962 D19 diesel also. I have the 3 spool valve, but the arms won't lift when I pull up on the inner valve lever. However, if I move the traction boost lever to the top, the arms will go up slowly and lift a fair amount of weight with my boom-pole, so the traction boost plunger in the pump is working properly. The hydraulic lift lever will lower the arms. I put a pressure gauge on the remote port for the lift arm valve, but I didn't read any pressure from the main pump, and the traction boost plunger put out around 1900psi if I remember correctly. Does this sound like a stuck relief valve, or check ball problem? Do I just need my control valve rebuilt, or is it possibly a pump problem? I'm thinking about disconnecting the hard lines from the hydraulic pump and plumbing in a loop with a gauge and ball valve to see if the main pump is putting out any pressure.
By the way, this is my first post. This looks like a nice forum and I'll probably be visiting often during my restoration. Here's my tractor:
[TUBE]GqJEcWOvHQE[/TUBE] Edited by Brad Kelley - 02 Jun 2010 at 8:39pm |
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Jim Lindemood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Dry Ridge, KY Points: 2569 |
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Brad - Welcome to the site. Sorry, I cant answer your question, but somebody should have some advice. Nice D19D ya got there. Your question is kind of buried in with other posts --- if you don't get help, try starting a new topic with just your question. You figured out how to post video, cool -- I'm still haven't figured it out - LOL
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skipwelte ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 29 Oct 2009 Location: Anthon, Iowa Points: 723 |
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Brad, be sure the knob below the single hyd coupler is scewed all the way in. It sounds like the either the relief valve is out of adjustment or the pump is not pumping on the 3 pistons. Its defenatly not a check ball problem, the check ball keeps the arms from dropping. Try screwing the relief valve in a turn or two and see if that helps. Ususally a relief valve will let it build some pressure but will open to soon and wont lift a load, it sounds like you may be pulling the pump to have a look at it. Ive got two D19s a gas and a diesel, yours sounds just like mine!!!!
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Matt MN ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Silver lake MN Points: 1491 |
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hey, Skip, Where is this "relief valve" you are talking about?
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Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!
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skipwelte ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 29 Oct 2009 Location: Anthon, Iowa Points: 723 |
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Ya know Matt, I halfta to go home and look at my D19, Im sure its on the vavle stack, but exactly which one Ill hafta look!!!
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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I'm pretty sure it is on the back of the stack valve to the left of the valve bodies. You have to take the nut/cap off to get to the screw inside.
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ALLIS EXPRESS!
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Brad Kelley ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 02 Jun 2010 Points: 13 |
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Thanks for the replys guys. Yes, the relief valve adjustment is on the back of the valve stack above the left hand remote port. My father had the cap off and gave it a few turns both ways, but it didn't change the reading on the test gauge or change the operation of the arms. I also adjusted the control knob on the valve both ways, and it didn't make any difference. When I get a chance I'll try to plumb in my bypass loop and see if there's any flow, but I guess if there isn't I'll be pulling the pump to see what's going on inside.
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Brad Kelley ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 02 Jun 2010 Points: 13 |
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I discovered the problem with my hydraulics:
![]() Luckily, I have a used pump that I bought on ebay. The cam shaft appears OK, but there has been some heat generated by these rollers.
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skipwelte ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 29 Oct 2009 Location: Anthon, Iowa Points: 723 |
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That was the next place to go Brad. Not to often do the rollers go bad as they run in oil all the time. You might want to take it apart and replace the oring and be sure to look at the check ball springs as they are pretty lite and are probably broken. Dont be afraid, just lay it all out on the clean bench, clean it up, put it back to together. A parts book helps a lot on reassembly. good luck
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