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Bee 
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Joined: 14 Jun 2010
Location: NC
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 Topic: Welding on a Torque Tube
Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 11:52am |
Looking to build up the pitted sections on a torque tube under the battery box. Can anyone recommend a good welding rod for cast iron? Wish they had mounted the battery under the tube..... 
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Bob, North Carolina
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Burgie
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Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 12:07pm |
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Nickel
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"Burgie"
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Bee
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Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 12:08pm |
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I'm seeing Lincoln 55ni
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Bob, North Carolina
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john(MI)
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Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 12:12pm |
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I would think bondo, or lead would be the best choices.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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GregLawlerMinn
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Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 12:44pm |
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I have used Bondo with good luck. Wire brush the area real good and smear it on in several layers.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Clay
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Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 1:04pm |
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If you are going to use a paste grade filler material, blast cleaning is your best option.
Use an angular abrasive such as Black Beauty. Blast to a near white 3 mi finish (blast standard SSPC10)
Belzona 1111 (Super Metal) can be applied in one application. There are no solvents thus no shrinkage. This material is not subject to chipping compared to JB Weld or Bondo. The Super Metal will not corrode or rust.
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DMiller
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Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 1:31pm |
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To get the weld to adequately adhere you would need to preheat the entire tube, to keep it from warping or twisting it will need to be reheated to red hot after the weld and allowed to slow quench, not really possible. The best alternative, bondo as suggested above or leave as is and paint it after wire brushing. Cast welding is an art that I after 30+ years of welding a lot, I have trouble with, it is more black smithing.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 1:40pm |
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If it were mine, I would go the Belzona route or use a primer filler and sand between layers.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 24 Jun 2010 at 12:05am |
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I 2nd the sandblasting. All of the rust will be removed. You can then do the Belzona thing or maybe even braze up the deep pits. Once you have the sheetmetal on it, you're not going to be able to see the pitted areas.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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olivershagnasty
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Posted: 24 Jun 2010 at 8:52am |
I have a tube that is not pitted you can have. Just pick it up. but you can do a lot of bondoing by the time you drive here.
Shagnasty
NC
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JC-WI
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Posted: 24 Jun 2010 at 8:59am |
Clay, what a salesman you are!
Just a courious question, could Bee take something like a small barrel and cut/slot the ends out so torque tube would slide into barrel, then line the with plastic to get the ends to seal and fill it with the frankeinstine fluids and hook up the battery charger and clean the metal that way and then wash it off and grind it smooth or Belzona it and paint?
That torque tube was not really smooth to start with from the factory...
or Could just find another tube that isn't all ate up.
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Bee
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Posted: 24 Jun 2010 at 9:03am |
 olivershagnasty wrote:
I have a tube that is not pitted you can have. Just pick it up. but you can do a lot of bondoing by the time you drive here.
Shagnasty
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Oliver, I sent you a private message. Thanks1
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Bob, North Carolina
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 24 Jun 2010 at 9:34am |
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As it is cosmetic , I would not try to weld , only going to lead to problems. Something like the Pour 11 or surface rust covering products would be a good thing to try.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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