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6140 stuck left brake

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Flying F Farms View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Apr 2010
Location: Eastern Indiana
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flying F Farms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 6140 stuck left brake
    Posted: 22 Apr 2010 at 1:55pm
I just bought a nice little 6140 diesel at an auction this weekend and the left brake appears to be stuck. It will move but it is definatley putting a lot of pressure on things.
 
Does anyone have any suggestions on freeing that side up?
 
Also I bought a universal loader for it and will be building the mounts this weekend. Where do I need to plumb my valves into for continuous flow?
 
Oh and glad to have an AC on the farm now.
 
Thanks
Wade
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Flying F Farms View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Apr 2010
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flying F Farms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2010 at 6:50am
No thoughts? Any suggestions to access the brake the easiest possible way?

Thanks
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shieldslx View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Dec 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shieldslx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2010 at 11:59pm
I think the problem is that a 6140 is a Fiat made tractor(pretty sure) and Im not sure the style of breaks, ca you upload some pics?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stan-tn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2010 at 6:05pm
My take on the brake problem is there is water in the hydro fluid. I own a 6140 and have noticed a sticking brake lately and upon looking at the trans fluid it appears to have some water in it. I will be changing the fluid soon and will see if this is the problem. This tractor is not a Fiat by the way it was mfg in Japan
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tbran View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2010 at 8:54am
not  uncommom - if any water gets in the hyd oil it swells the brake discs. First change the oil and flush.  IF that does not work we take the final drives off and machine off  floater plate or a mating surface about  .100   Worked fine so far.  Brakes are expensive. This is a Toyoshia (bankrupt - however in Japan one does not go bankrupt - someone takes you over and mgmt goes to work for that company sweeping floors or cleaning toilets or they do the honorable thing i.e Hari Cari  The business who bought Toyoshia did not  retool to build parts so beware)  The compact 200 series 205- 1040-1045 MF's and the 5015-5230-6140 were Toyoshia - not Toyota - built.  There were also 2 series of 6140's  - look at steering - if it is hydrostatic it is late series if it has a steering box (can't get anymore) and pivot on lh front axle it is early style.  This is a shame. The 6140 was probably the best 40 hp tractor since the AC160.   Ind PTO, syncro reverse, 10 speed syncro
(5X2) wet brakes, planetary - fuel efficient - flip up hood - old AC type remote valves -cranks well with glow plugs - and dependable.  We have several approaching 10,000  hours and sold over 30 of these units. 
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Flying F Farms View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flying F Farms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2010 at 9:03am
Great, at least I have a start. I am getting ready to paint the hood and fenders, put on new rears and have them loaded. I really love the little tractor. What's this critter worth? 1700 hrs on working tack.
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tbran View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr 2010 at 5:46pm
early models that are 6-7 on a 10 scale $3500-4500  late model production units $3500-$5500 for the units with power spread wheels and remotes. FWA models (rare) go about $1500 more - add 2000 for a loader.    Units with problems or that are ruff are hard to sell at any price. 
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