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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson, WI
Points: 1826
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 Topic: Trick to taking out spring pins on deluxe seat
Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 8:21pm |
Was going to try and take the seat apart on my D17 as all the rubber grommets and bushings are all worn out. Anyone have a trick to removing the spring pins out of the three spots so I can drive those 1/2 rods out to dissassemble the seat. I tried to drive them out with a punch and they just mashed over. I tried to drill them, but because they're hardened. I might as well move the seat right next to the bench grinder as I will be sharpening drill bits for eternity. Was wondering if someone who already took theirs apart found a trick to it? Thanks.
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Pilot Grove, MO
Points: 3115
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Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 8:33pm |
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Chuck - no real "trick" that I know of...btdt... soak them in PB Blaster, etc. repeated for a long time first. Just cut them off flush on both sides so the don't mash over and use a very good punch and a BFH...when they don't budge, soak some more, give some more time and come back another day and repeat...its what it took for me. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson, WI
Points: 1826
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Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 8:45pm |
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Thanks Mike. I will give them a soaking tonite.
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daveingreenbay
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Joined: 09 Oct 2009
Location: Green Bay
Points: 245
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Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 9:40pm |
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Chuck, try using a roll pin punch. It has a tit in the middle of the punch to keep it centered in the roll pin. Less chance of mushrooming the roll pin. You can get complete sets of roll pin punches or purchase them individually from your favorite tool salesman. Got mine from Snap On. They work really well. HTH
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20883
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Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 9:56pm |
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Forget driving the roll pins out....take a big hammer and punch and drive out the 1/2" pins while shearing off the roll pins. If you then want to attempt to drive out the roll pins, they may cooperate, but I usually installl new 1/2 pins and tack weld them in place anyway.
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gallatin,TN
Points: 10657
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Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 10:49pm |
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It is best to support the workpiece against a solid surface. Use a short drive pin punch to get the pins started. Then use a longer one to finish removal. HTH Tracy Martin
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bigfish_Oh
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: West Liberty,Oh
Points: 1226
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Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 8:47am |
 daveingreenbay wrote:
Chuck, try using a roll pin punch. It has a tit in the middle of the punch to keep it centered in the roll pin. Less chance of mushrooming the roll pin. You can get complete sets of roll pin punches or purchase them individually from your favorite tool salesman. Got mine from Snap On. They work really well. HTH
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I've saved several hours in several places on 45's with roll pin punches, you must hit a solid surface, wise investment. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-5802-sk-hand-tool-6069.aspx
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1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p.
1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe
1951 WD, factory p.s.
1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale
2014 HD Tri Glide
2009 GMC CC SLT Dually
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