TROY BILT TILLER

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   This is old...maybe late 1970's. Any ideas on how to remove the wheels which are rusted FAST unto the shaft? I used Acetone/ATF and been soaking for a day now. 
Also, the bearings are all shot on both shafts and I can't figger how to remove the pinion...(input)..shaft to replace bearings and packing.
Is the pinion outboard bearing pressed into the front of tranny? I can't see any joint there. 
Any help will be greatly appreciated..THANKS!

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JohnThomas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Traverse City Points: 332	Post Options Post Reply Quote JohnThomas Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: TROY BILT TILLER Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 11:00am
	This is old...maybe late 1970's. Any ideas on how to remove the wheels which are rusted FAST unto the shaft? I used Acetone/ATF and been soaking for a day now. Also, the bearings are all shot on both shafts and I can't figger how to remove the pinion...(input)..shaft to replace bearings and packing. Is the pinion outboard bearing pressed into the front of tranny? I can't see any joint there. Any help will be greatly appreciated..THANKS!
	Life is short...Make haste to be kind

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rw Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 28 Oct 2009 Location: United States Points: 384	Post Options Post Reply Quote rw Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 12:54pm
	I downloaded a bunch of literature and service manual from their website years ago. It had the factory service literature. I would check there first.

jaybmiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 23160	Post Options Post Reply Quote jaybmiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 1:45pm
	What I've done in the past, is to take a few open ended wrenches and used as 'shims' between the case and the rear side of the rim leaving a small gap. Then take a 'pickle' fork.aka .tierod end fork and whack it into the small gap.Hopefully the rim will move, keep adding more wrenches as required to get the rim off.Yes, you have to have a trained octopus to hold the wrenches,but it's a tried and true way that works up here. Also squirt some oil on the shaft as you go. Patience is important ! You don't want to damage anything especially the helpers hands holding the wrenches !! Jay
	3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

RoyR (MI) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Reading, MI Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote RoyR (MI) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 6:38pm
	For the truly stuck ones, I have used the torch and heated the wheel hubs quite hot then cooled with water. You have to be careful pounding on the shaft because there is a woodruff key in the middle of the transmission that you can drive out of the gear and cause you to tear into it a lot deeper than you planned ( don't ask me how I know). When you do get the wheels off, be sure to clean the shafts up really well before installing the new seals and clean the rust out of the wheels. I grease the snot out of both before reassembly.
	-------------- Roy

SIMPLICITY Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 19 Sep 2009 Location: ERATH LOUISIANA Points: 497	Post Options Post Reply Quote SIMPLICITY Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 9:14pm
	I HEAT THE WHEELS AND GET A LONG SHANK AIR CHISEL AND CUT THE END WITH A TORCH,IN DOING THAT IT LEAVES THE END KINDA JAGGED END ALLOWING IT TO BITE INTO THE RIM. DON'T TRY TO PUSH IT OFF ALL AT ONCE, IF IT MOVES ONE WAY PUT LOTS OF OIL AND MOVE IT BACK, THEN JUST BACK N FORTH, **** PUSH AS CLOSE TO THE CENTER OF THE RIM AS YOU CAN AND ROTATE DON'T PUSH IN THE SAME PLACE YOU COLD GO THROUGH THE RIM*** I REMOVE RIMS FROM FROZEN LAWN MOWER AXLES ALL THE TIME. CAN'T TELL YOU THE LAST TIME I HAD TO CUT ONE OFF. HOPE THIS HELPS

JohnThomas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Traverse City Points: 332	Post Options Post Reply Quote JohnThomas Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 6:19am
	Thanks for the input....I go try both the wrench and heat method together today....MAP gas should do it......don't have the long shank chisel tho....but thanks!
	Life is short...Make haste to be kind

SIMPLICITY Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 19 Sep 2009 Location: ERATH LOUISIANA Points: 497	Post Options Post Reply Quote SIMPLICITY Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 9:01pm
	HI JOHN REMOVED 2 RIMS FROM A OLD CRAFTSMAN FROZEN SOLID, HEAT AND A AIR CHISEL REALLY NEED TO FIND ONE IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM. GOOD LUCK

JoeM(GA) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4702	Post Options Post Reply Quote JoeM(GA) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 9:07pm
	my Dad had one of those, they had to weld a washer and nut to the wheels and then used a bolt to thread in and push against the axle shaft
	Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB

DREAM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 06 Jan 2010 Location: Elberton,GA Points: 1828	Post Options Post Reply Quote DREAM Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 9:15pm
	I have made a puller by using a piece of 1" x 2" flat bar steel. Drill 3 holes, one in the center with a 3/4" bit, and one at each end with 1/2" bit. This needs to be a little shorter than the diameter of the rim. Weld a 3/4" nut(fine thread works best, but more expensive) over the center hole, so that a piece of 3/4" threaded rod will pass through. Grind one end of the threaded rod to a point so it will center in the axle shaft. Weld another 3/4" nut to the other end of the threaded rod. Pass a length of 1/2" threaded rod through each hole on the ends of the bar. Mark and drill 1/2" holes directly opposite each other through the rim. Pass the 1/2" rods through. I have had the best luck using 3/8" thick steel with holes drilled in them to distribute some of the load for the 1/2" rods. This keeps from bending the rims. Once you have everything in, level, straight, and tight, put some pressure on it, then heat. Should come off that way. I've never had one yet that wouldn't give up. Just remember to clean everything well before reassembly, and use lots of anti seize compound.

JohnThomas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Traverse City Points: 332	Post Options Post Reply Quote JohnThomas Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 5:44am
	Thanks Guys..Dream's machine sounds like a winner. Think I'll try that... Cheers
	Life is short...Make haste to be kind

Stan IL&TN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stan IL&TN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 7:23am
	After removing the tires I used a large gear puller, lots of heat and then smacked it with a sledgehammer as the 5 pound ball peen wasn't doing it at all. I'd smack it 3-4 times and then tighten the puller a turn, smack it again and then tighten it more. It was quite the work out but they came off.