D17 oil pressure

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   Okay, had the D17 out yesterday doing some cultivating.  First time I could really work it since the new rods/rings put in last fall.  The snowblower doesn't load it as much as the quack digger.
Worked it for about an hour - the engine warmed up nice, in the 180 range, but the oil pressure kept going down - lower than I have ever seen it, at the left side of the N on the pressure gage.  Wish it had numbers!  No knock from the engine but when I looked down and saw that it scared me a bit.  The rear main seal I know leaks like a sieve - prolly lost a quart of oil in that hour.  But does that seal hold in any pressure?  If the seal was good, would the oil pressure be higher?
I've got to split it to change the seal and there is a voice in my head telling me I should just drop the krank and change the mains as well, but just thought I would get a second opinion.
My doctor told me when the voices in my head start making sense I should double up on my medication..........but this time it might be right!
thanks and cheers,
Creek

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Creek Jenkins Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Northern Minn Points: 812	Post Options Post Reply Quote Creek Jenkins Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D17 oil pressure Posted: 03 Apr 2010 at 9:37pm
	Okay, had the D17 out yesterday doing some cultivating. First time I could really work it since the new rods/rings put in last fall. The snowblower doesn't load it as much as the quack digger. Worked it for about an hour - the engine warmed up nice, in the 180 range, but the oil pressure kept going down - lower than I have ever seen it, at the left side of the N on the pressure gage. Wish it had numbers! No knock from the engine but when I looked down and saw that it scared me a bit. The rear main seal I know leaks like a sieve - prolly lost a quart of oil in that hour. But does that seal hold in any pressure? If the seal was good, would the oil pressure be higher? I've got to split it to change the seal and there is a voice in my head telling me I should just drop the krank and change the mains as well, but just thought I would get a second opinion. My doctor told me when the voices in my head start making sense I should double up on my medication..........but this time it might be right! thanks and cheers, Creek

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CTuckerNWIL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823	Post Options Post Reply Quote CTuckerNWIL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Apr 2010 at 9:48pm
	New main bearings might not help if the cam brgs are wore out.
	http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Lars(wi) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Permian Basin Points: 7417	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lars(wi) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Apr 2010 at 9:52pm
	what weight of motor oil are you using? a 30 or 40 weight will work best for summer time
	I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.

Creek Jenkins Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Northern Minn Points: 812	Post Options Post Reply Quote Creek Jenkins Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 8:29am
	I've been using straight 30w oil all year around. Didn't use it much last winter as we didn't have much snow, I heated it up with a propane salamander and got the oil pan warm before starting it if it was below zero. Prolly will switch to 10-30 next winter. Yah I was thinking about the cam bearings as well - if I split it and drop the crank I guess it wouldn't kill me to go the rest of the way and put in cam bearings. I prob should have popped off a main cap last fall when I changed the rod bearings. I imagine if the mains are shot the cam bearings can't be far behind. There are 4860 hours on the tach, but it didn't work when I got it so who knows how many hours the old girl has on her and when the mains/cams were last changed. I know it threw a rod at one time so some parts were changed - the sleeves and pistons are fairly new but they didn't put any money into the head, it was a mess. Happy Easter! cheers, Creek