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Priming the oil pump when rebuilding

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paulinkansas View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
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    Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 9:14am
D17 series III gas.  I'm replacing the pistons, rings & sleeves.  I'm using Lucas assembly lube on the moving parts on the new connecting rod bearings and new piston pins.  I plan to put some of the lube on all the moving parts in the head.  Do I need to prime the oil pump before starting it for the first time?  If so, do I just manually turn the engine over (with the plugs removed) until I see oil flowing into the head?  Are there any other things that would need lubed besides what I've already mentioned?  Thank you.
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skipwelte View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skipwelte Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 10:11am

Ive got a pre lube tool at home, you pressuize the top of the tank and it pushed oil into the oil gallery. Its real old, Ive used it only a couple of time.    Id take the plugs out so there is no  compression, then roll the eng with the starter until you see pressure on the oil guage.  it will take longer to get oil flowing over the rockers, as long as there is pressure on the guage youve got the system primed.  HTH

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Robert Mull Georgia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robert Mull Georgia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 12:06pm
On my D-15 series 2,  I took a new cheap oil filter and cut the top out of it to use as a funnel and filled up the Engine  to the full mark on the dip stick by pouring the oil into the open top filter to make sure the pump was primed, replaced the cut out top filter with a new one and started it up. Had pressure in a couple of seconds.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 3:20pm
Fill the crankcase with 6 quarts of oil. With the oil filter removed, slowly pour the remaining quart into the oil filter base (center hole and outside hole)....spin on the filter and start it...everything will be primed.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 5:12pm
I do it Skip's way. O'Reilly's has a pre lube tank you can rent. It plumbs in through the oil pressure gauge or other port on the engine that connects to the pressurized side of the system. I always use one to fill the engine. That way everything is fully oiled and primed. No other way will do a better job. It's the same as turning the oil pump with a drill.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Rawleigh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rawleigh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:02am
Couldn't you do the same with a cheap grease gun filled with oil?  Or one of those big syringe type suction guns?


Edited by Rawleigh - 01 Apr 2010 at 9:02am
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:42am
I just crank the engine, not letting it start, then once oil pressure gauge reads something, let it start. I always spin a gauge into an oil galley if it only has light on dash. On my gas/alcohol drag motors, I spin the oil pump shaft with a socket(Fords) and speed handle, and make sure all 16 rockers are oiling, but for tractors thats not required. Ed.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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