I cant get D 17 started, HELP!

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   Just installed 226 from a 170 into a D17, turns over good until I use the choke then it acts like it gets tight so it wont turn over very fast. Is it the timing? I took out a plug and it was dry. It is getting spark. The carb is getting gas, there is power to points/coil. Without using the choke it wont start or really try, when I used choke it did fire a little bit, but like I said the engine acts like it gets tight so it is hard to turn over and also the starter gets rather hot after cranking over for about a minute or so. thanks

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boscoe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165	Post Options Post Reply Quote boscoe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: I cant get D 17 started, HELP! Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 4:20pm
	Just installed 226 from a 170 into a D17, turns over good until I use the choke then it acts like it gets tight so it wont turn over very fast. Is it the timing? I took out a plug and it was dry. It is getting spark. The carb is getting gas, there is power to points/coil. Without using the choke it wont start or really try, when I used choke it did fire a little bit, but like I said the engine acts like it gets tight so it is hard to turn over and also the starter gets rather hot after cranking over for about a minute or so. thanks

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Denis in MI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Norvell, MI Points: 832	Post Options Post Reply Quote Denis in MI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 4:44pm
	General rule on making starters last is no more than 30 seconds of cranking followed by 30 seconds or more of rest so they can cool down or frequent replacement could be in your future. Does your choke butterfly have a flap to prevent over choking if it does not engines will usually turn slower when choked, this has been my experience any way. I would try a little starting fluid, if it will fire on it then carb is probably out of adjustment if it does not it is probably out of time.
	1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14

Creek Jenkins Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Northern Minn Points: 812	Post Options Post Reply Quote Creek Jenkins Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 4:51pm
	After I overhauled my D17 I now have to choke the liver out of it or it won't start. Before the overhaul I barely ever used the choke, now gas will run out the carb hose just before she lights up. Dunno why - might be the tighter engine turns slower. I had the starter rebuilt, but my battery is a tad tired. cheers, Creek

boscoe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165	Post Options Post Reply Quote boscoe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 4:54pm
	I was exaggerating on the starting time I didnt turn over for more than 15 sec at a time it just seems like longer. I am using the governor from from my D 17 on this engine of which is from a 170 and 226cuin but about 10 years newer or so i would guess, maybe that explaines the timing issue? I dont know, If it fires a little from starting fluid then it would be the carb? I took it off and cleaned and set the best i could, didnt help.

boscoe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165	Post Options Post Reply Quote boscoe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 4:58pm
	When I bought replacement engine it was sold as Ran as it should, before they tore down the tractor, that is all i know about it. Has anyone elso had any luck with ether?

boscoe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165	Post Options Post Reply Quote boscoe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 7:43pm
	I give up, maybe I should move on to my 190xt, does anyone have a starter and carburator for 2800 gas.

akmarty Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Talkeetna AK. Points: 114	Post Options Post Reply Quote akmarty Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 7:49pm
	is there any way you can try pull starting

GregLawlerMinn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lawler, Mn Points: 1226	Post Options Post Reply Quote GregLawlerMinn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 9:33pm
	You may also want to check the ignition wire order; 1243. Remove the plugs, place your finger over #1 and turn over the engine until you feell compression on your finger. The run a wire down #1 spark plug hole and contact the piston. Turn the engine until the wire is at the top. Remove the rotor cap and dust cover and verify that the rotor is pointing to the #1 sparak plug wire. Have seen a few cases where someone mis-installed the plug wires.

ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826	Post Options Post Reply Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 9:39pm
	Carb cleaner will work as well. I did this when I was having problems with my WD. Couldn't get it to fire, but if I sprayed carb cleaner in the carb, it woud fire and run so I knew that it was a carb problem. I still don't have it perfect, but it runs now at least. I was going to take the carb off and clean it with the baking soda air nozzle treatment that someone posted on here a while back, but I haven't gotten that far.

JC-WI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 33864	Post Options Post Reply Quote JC-WI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 11:15pm
	Sounds like your ignition system is set a tad before TDC possibly. Do as Greg Lawler said and set piston on TDC then disconnect points and hook a meter or light to it and turn distributer base in direct of rotation untill light goes out. See if that helps. Which carb did you use, D17 or 170?

boscoe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165	Post Options Post Reply Quote boscoe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 7:55am
	carb from d 17 is the one that is being used, I just cant get over the fact that the governor housing locating hole does not line up with the locating hole on the block could that possibly make it out of time? I will check the wires today ,hopefully I just crossed one. And also try the carb cleaner that might be safer than starting fluid?

Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 2:00pm
	What I do when I have had an engine apart and need to get the the distributor back in place reasonably close to being in time is: Turn the engine over until #1 is coming up on compression stroke. Center the "Fire" line in the window. Then put the distributor in with the rotor pointing at #1 tower on the cap. Lay the coil wire where it can spark, turn the switch on, and rotate the distributor against rotor rotation and stop when a spark jumps. The ignition system should be very close and the engine should start. A battery with a bad cell can still turn the engine, but the voltage will drop low enough that the coil won't produce a spark under compression.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

boscoe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165	Post Options Post Reply Quote boscoe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 2:26pm
	Does the governor gaer have a timing mark? I installed the distributor and governor all together as one as it came off the old engine so dist should be in time?, as I said earlyer the location hole from the gov and block dont match , how much clearance does gov gear need between timing gear. I just dont want to do ant major damage to the engine with regards to the gov gear. Are the gov gears the same on a wd45, d17, and 170?

boscoe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165	Post Options Post Reply Quote boscoe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 2:46pm
	Ok the governor is probably not the issue so I will try some of the ideas shared by all of you. thanks.

ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826	Post Options Post Reply Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 3:32pm
	I'm just thinking out loud here, but if it's anything like when I put a distributor on my WD, there wasn't a timing mark for the governor gear to match with the engine, so what I did was look for the timing marks on the flywheel to time it, and got the engine on the fire mark, and then just moved the distributor so it would line up with one of the spark plug locations on the cap. Once I did this and tried again, it started right up. Hope that helps.