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D171958 
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Joined: 03 Aug 2024
Location: Iowa
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 Topic: 6v or 12v
Posted: 25 Dec 2024 at 6:12pm |
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I got a series one d17 and I was wondering if 12v or 6v would be better and if I should leave the points in the distributor or get an electric conversion kit.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20785
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Posted: 25 Dec 2024 at 6:34pm |
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Any age D-17 was always 12 volts. Never 6 volts. Electronic ignition won't make it run any better, just reduces maintenance over the years.
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jvin248
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Joined: 17 Jan 2022
Location: Detroit
Points: 344
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Posted: 25 Dec 2024 at 6:34pm |
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I rebuild for function, not authentic factory features which you and other comments may chase, this is the setup I prefer:
12v neg ground
LED lights or bulbs
Good quality ignition key switch for boating wet conditions
Electronic ignition won't survive an EMP event... Verify your coil is 12v internal resistor type Alternator with internal regulator, either the big Delco/GM or the Denso small one used by the hot rod builders as it tucks away easier.
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Edited by jvin248 - 25 Dec 2024 at 6:42pm
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DrAllis
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Posted: 25 Dec 2024 at 6:36pm |
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12 volt POSITIVE ground with a generator on an A-C.
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youngorange2000
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Joined: 27 Mar 2019
Location: eastcentral MN
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Posted: 25 Dec 2024 at 10:25pm |
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I just did one for a guy that had the original 12v generator with the external voltage regulator and positive ground. We trashed that rats nest for a new brillman 12v neg ground 1 wire alternator harness and a new alternator. I the end it was cheaper to go with a $85 alternator rather than have the generator rebuilt for $60 and still have to buy a $115 USA made voltage regulator.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 82041
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Posted: 25 Dec 2024 at 10:30pm |
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if your present generator is working, it would be Positive ground... no problem... BUT, if it is bad or goes bad, that is definitely the time to consider an alternator and NEG ground.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11863
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Posted: 25 Dec 2024 at 11:40pm |
The cheaper way to go is usually with an Alternator. Some people don't like the look of an Alternator on the older Tractors. Some what the reliability not the originality. Your call there. If you go with an Alternator, its better to wire it three wire not one wire especially on the older Tractors. Loose the Ammeter and install a Voltmeter for safety and accurate charging rates.
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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D171958
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 26 Dec 2024 at 8:15am |
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Ok so what kind of coil should I use if it’s 12v positive or negative.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 26 Dec 2024 at 8:19am |
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Same coil. Just switch the wires around. Positive ground on the battery needs + post on the coil to the distributer. Negative ground on the battery needs - post on the coil to the distributer.
Edited by DrAllis - 26 Dec 2024 at 8:19am
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 26 Dec 2024 at 8:30am |
My 'vote' is for 12v alternator. I use the CS130 series...small in size, 40 amps, free. Wire into 'idiot light'. If someone whines about 'ewww an alternator' tell them,'fine YOU pay for a generator. Either way, as 12v , use negative ground. saves a lot of spark when you jump start that guy's truck who said 'ewww, an alternator' !!!
Electronic ignitions are NOT bullet proof. Hooked up wrong and zappp.... $150 piece of artwork, and no running tractor....
In the end ,it's your tractor, your choice.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 26 Dec 2024 at 12:37pm |
your coil should say 12v with INTERNAL resistor on the case.... any coil like that will work.
if the system is NEGATIVE GROUND then the neg side of the coil goes to the distributor point... If it is POSITIVE ground, then the POS side of the coil goes to the distributor point.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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jvin248
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Joined: 17 Jan 2022
Location: Detroit
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Posted: 26 Dec 2024 at 6:10pm |
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Use an ohm meter on the coil to verify it has the internal resistor. 3ohms = resistor, 1.5ohm = coil for external resistor.
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jvin248
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Posted: 26 Dec 2024 at 6:13pm |
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Many of us have found the distributor tune up kits have bad condenser/capacitors and retrofit the old one that was in the tractor. So don't throw out all the old parts when fixing it up.
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D171958
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 26 Dec 2024 at 6:30pm |
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Ok thanks for the help I’ve decided to keep it 12 negative and put an alternator on with the electric conversion
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 26 Dec 2024 at 6:40pm |
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great..now consider a 100% rewire while your at it. That way you KNOW you have GOOD wires..here,there, everywhere.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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D171958
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Posted: 26 Dec 2024 at 7:10pm |
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I was planning on it because it sat outside for years and it’s an ffa project and family project and I don’t want to skimp on it.
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WF owner
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Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
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Posted: 27 Dec 2024 at 7:33am |
As Steve in NJ says above, changing from an ammeter to a voltmeter is a good idea.
An alternator charges at a lot higher rate than the old generator. Every bit of current (amps) travels through the ammeter. The ammeter isn't built to handle the higher current flow from an alternator.
After changing a tractor, I sometimes wonder why they weren't equipped with a voltmeter from the factory.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 27 Dec 2024 at 7:41am |
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Whenever I converted a D-17 over to an alternator, I replaced the ammeter with one from a 185 or 200 which are 60 amps.
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Randy_Larson
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Location: NW Wisconsin
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Posted: 30 Dec 2024 at 7:58pm |
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I installed an 8 volt battery on my D14...starts great everything.
Happy New Year!
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G,D10,D12,D14,D15,D17gas,D17 diesel,D19 Diesel, D21 Series II,160,190, B1,Bumble Bee 10,B1,HB 212,ACC 30 forklift and snap-coupler equipment
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 30 Dec 2024 at 9:51pm |
re: I sometimes wonder why they weren't equipped with a voltmeter from the factory.
Simple, a voltmeter does NOT show CHARGE or DIScharge. A voltmeter can show '14 volts - solid green' and yet when you turn the key ...click, grr, nada. The battery HAS a 'surface charge but no quantity of electrons in it. A ammeter shows ACTUAL current flow( in or out ) which is far more important than 'volts'.
Voltmeters on vehicles are a cheap, universal 'fit', but do not tell the important part of the electrical system. properly maintained they'll last decades. Ammeter on my 1st D-14 is still operational(3 decades) even with 100A CS130 alternator. Since tractor starts great, not many electrons have to go back into the battery, so 'high' amps charge rate is only a few seconds. Yes, needle pegs, but it's old skool, built for rough service. BTW not all alternators charge higher than generators. 1st CS130s I had were 40 amp units from 90' cavaliers,think the D-14 genny is 35 amps ?
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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D171958
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 31 Dec 2024 at 8:28am |
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I wouldn’t even know how. Many amps the generator would have I haven’t ever used one.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Dec 2024 at 8:34am |
"MOST of the generators in the 1950s were about 20 amps output (MAX)... In the 1960 era they were 30- 35 amps.... First alternators were also 30- 35 amps... With new cars having air cond, big radio/ amps , fuel injection, elect everything , big output lights.. they went up to 100 - 130 amps output... Some now up to 200 amps... The BATTERY does not need that kind of charge.. The allternator might only put out 10 amps while charging a battery.. as you add more LOAD, the alternator increases output to keep the battery from being drained.
Look at the amp gauge on a TRACTOR without all the elect... You can have a 30 amp generator or a 100 amp alternator and you very seldom see it running above 20 amps... Normally it will be around 5 amps.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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