penetrating fluid

I have seen various posts regarding what makes best penetrant for rusty objects that won't budge. Among them was a mixture of acetone and ATF. What portions of each works best? I have some wheel locks from WD/WD45 that won't budge after many soakings of Kroil, PB blaster, WD-40.

Another thing you can try is the WAX method - using color crayons or other paraffin wax - heat the part enough to melt the wax when applied to the part at thread intersection .
  Wax will seep down  into joint and break the rust bond . 
If that doesn't work the heat then shock may work - Heat up and quick cool down - Another method if accessible is heat and Hammer shock - striking the part when hot - in some cases red hot - to break internal bond of metals to each other   

I really like the stuff that is call free I got it at Napa I think it's better then kroil and I used Kroil a lot of years.

I’ve had good results with ATF. Mixing different compounds may complicate things? ATF alone, tolerates some higher temps? Its flash point(vapors ignite) is somewhere between 300-400F & it’s boiling point is nearer to 500-600F. Maybe try spray soaking ATF onto rusted areas before heating? Then low temp heat <300F will help draw ATF inside rusted parts?? Once ATF has been drawn inside, then carefully heat up metal & listen for boiling sounds of ATF. The cherry red metal stages are nearer to 800-1500F? If you go to those temps, best to understand ATF’s properties.

Thanks Kenny , I'll check it out soon .

Link to NAPA Free-All

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCBRE12?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=pmd_ZOqDdIdfX8Vwkhlr9.Dawud.4tscUXOQOXzdz2DV6P8-1634246066-0-gqNtZGzNAjujcnBszQi9

I prefer Kroil but because my "supplier" is no longer in business I use it sparingly. After my dads passing I found several partial bottles of type F ATF (my mom and dad had several '64-'65 T-Birds) so I been mixing acetone with the ATF and have it in a old style pump oil can. 

I have used Kroil up until I discovered Free-All. it is hands down far more effective than any other penetrant available. No contest. Also, It is available at Auto Zone, Napa, Rural King etc. Getting easier to find all the time. Part # is    RE12

Keep in mind that when these tests are using artificial rust process it is whole bunch different than 40 years of real rust. Each situation is different. Lots of heat can work well in some cases but not so much in others. If you are using heat then red hot with oxygen acetylene torch. Not half hot. When I am doing press in bearings I just pound them apart. When you get to final race put 4 red hot spots in it.  Let it cool. That shrinks it and then it comes out with some light taps. Each case can be whole new ball game. Long and short of it the oils seldom work but it is the first thing to try.

Edited by Ed (Ont) - 24 Dec 2021 at 7:53pm