AC 620 60" cut ability

Did you get you a set of Hi - Lift blades to try out?

http://www.stens.com/Portal.aspx?CN=637179B36C57&SEARCH=Allis%20chalmers%20mower%20blades&GCONTENTID=DBC825CBB3E6&RND=852249787421897

Edited by Jim Hancock - 11 Jun 2015 at 10:34am

Hi Ken. 

I always wanted a 620/720. The ones I found were more than I wanted to spend.
Found a JD 318 (52" cut I think it is for $150. Good shape bad engine. Redid the junk Onan that was in it and used it about 5 years. Got tired of fixing the pos engine, flywheel/starter issues and most everything else except the deck and hydro.

Was looking at zero turns and the prices I couldn't justify so....I was going to spend money on something so I got a 24hp Briggs repower for that JD 318. Took a hour and 30 minutes to get going and then bought a deck speedup pulley. That is a mowing monster now, no comparison from the way it was before.

But as fate would have it I came across a 1990 Ford 1320. 20 hp 3 cyl diesel, FWA, hydro drive in pieces for free. Came with a 6' belly mower and a 5' front hydro blade.
Finally figured out that cluster puck and got it going. Parts prices are insane on those Jap tractors. I have $700 in it now.
It is as close to a zero turn as you can get. Cuts golf course like, twice as fast and half the fuel. Not a single problem with it yet and I have put close to 60 hours on it just this spring. I would never believe it's a 20hp. goes through 18" tall grass and not even bog down. Granted I may have to run over the real tall stuff again but it goes through it like it was nothing.

The JD will just sit in the wings as a backup I guess. The WD doesn't get used much anymore for mowing, just driveway work (1/2 mile drive) or just finding something to use it for because I like it.
My 2 cents

Ken, yeah stick with that Lowes-MTD, looks to be in great condition. Sounds like you have a lot of obstacles and such since you need to use a push mower. I set up the landscaping such that things are not in my way. Maybe you should consider that approach.
When I mow, it can involve 4 machines, yes I like to play on power equipment,
I got a John Deere x320 48" for the fine lawn around the house. It is quiet, mows good, just the right size, no power steering, but absolutely doesn't need it.
I use the JD318 46" for the dirty work- around the periphery of the fields and woods, mowing between the blue berries. Engine is good transmission is not so good.
Up front we have a road fronting field. For this I use "Pretty Boy", the Allis Chalmers 620. Because it is so good looking, I won't get close to any nasties- don't want to scratch it up.
In back there is a pasture. Normally I use the Allis 160 tractor with 72" woods finish mower. Lately I have been using the 620 because the 160
always seems to have an implement attached that is reason I need to use next. The decision to use the 620 comes with the knowledge that the Onan is a gas hog, going to cost a few bucks extra, especially compared to the 160.

So I saw one of the little 1320 Ford tractors on side of road, I drove past, but then had to turn around. Walking up towards it, big for sale sign $500! Read the fine print- mower only, not the tractor". Darn.

Hi Ken! 

Edited by Jim Hancock - 15 Jun 2015 at 1:21pm

Hi Brian!

I just thought you guys deserved a final update. I found a way to calculate blade tip speed. At the RPM I was running, 2600RPM blade speed was way too low. Partly due to me never lubricating the govenor linkage. Doing that brought it up to 3000RPM then adjusting the spring anchor and now at 3300RPM my blade tip speed is just around 19,000 FPM which is the legal limit. So now in 4th Gear (it has 7) and in high range it cuts grass fast as physically comfortable and does a great job of it. I can do the whole acre in 50 minutes without trimming. Good enough for me as this is a hudge improvement. Top speed on pavement in high gear is 8.5 MPH on gps!

Yes, the mower operates much more efficiently in tall grass without the stone guard.I have used it 3 times since removing it and it is an obvious improvement. It does throw sticks (and stones I assume) way further. I do no use it around people or property, so I accept the increased hazard risk. I wouldn't use it around the house or cars now.
This thread got started in part about mowing time. So stone guard out
is all around improvement. For cutting in the rectangular field, the full size 160 tractor with 6ft finish mower still faster than the 620. 40hp and 72" beats 18hp and 60". The 160 has a relatively short wheelbase, it turns pretty well.

I wanted to check the 620's deck for level and got a BIG SURPRISE reading the manual. Manual can be downloaded from the Simplicity support site. Deck model number is 1690074. My expectation was that the front (center) blade tip would be lower than the rears (as HudCo stated). But the manual says the rears should be lower! Why, is this because this deck has rear rollers vs. the now usual suspended type decks? I guess I should follow the manual. Can someone comment on the leveling issue?

I gave up looking for high lift blades. As far as I can see, Stens
doesn't have them for this deck.

So Ken has his machine running better and so is mine, pretty good.