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CAL(KS) 
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
Points: 3786
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 Posted: 14 May 2020 at 7:28am |
 DMiller wrote:
CAL(KS) wrote:
you can do it with a sledge if you have the fortitude but you need to buck the rail on the backside tightly so it doesnt bounce. ive had the pleasure of doing hd16 rail by hammer and driver. best driver is shaft welded to a long handle so helper can hold and be well out of way swinging sledge. even then you may need a little heat to expand the rail a touch and get it started. |
I am about to send my 20# to the scrapper or donate for a boat anchor. Have had one the better part of forty years and just about to the Done Moment!!! |
well im a young buck yet (39) so can still swing a bit. I will tell you it wasnt much fun though!
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 31155
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Posted: 14 May 2020 at 7:42am |
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I have a couple decades PLUS on you!! And I can state unequivocally that 20# gets heavier EVERY Time used!!
Dropped rails on the 7G as first bought it, then dropped rails on Donor when got it repeated process this LAST and FINAL time on it for me, next poor bustard owner is ALL HIS! I will use it awhile then she goes Ta Ta, Byebye!!
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HD6 Merv
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Joined: 03 Aug 2010
Location: New Zealand
Points: 480
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Posted: 14 May 2020 at 1:40pm |
Naah; don,t work like that Dave You will use it abit; then abit more; fall in love with it again. . . . And then bang. . .hiccup back to square one again lol. Cheers mate Merv
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tits tyres and tracks
they all cost you money
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krusty
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Joined: 09 Jan 2012
Points: 60
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Posted: 28 Jul 2020 at 9:50am |
Gang,
It has been a stinkin hot summer which while I do love the heat, I can no longer work outside in it like a dog. Finally got the machine home and its getting back to seasonal temps tomorrow. Does anyone have a parts book of the front idler pages they could send to me? I figure I will order the bearings and have them on hand for when the guy is here to press the pin. If it comes apart easy will just make him wait while I change out the bearings and he can press it back together instead of a second trip. That of course if it is easy to do once apart!
Krusty,
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CAL(KS)
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
Points: 3786
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Posted: 28 Jul 2020 at 10:41am |
free parts book here. covers all 6g its at the bottom
Edited by CAL(KS) - 28 Jul 2020 at 10:41am
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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krusty
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Posted: 28 Jul 2020 at 3:12pm |
Cal
Thx for that link!
Also found the early parts manual here:
Seems to be the 3720/3780 Timken and I cant match a seal so will go with the equivalent seal dimensions as with the Timken unless someone knows the specific width of the Allis equivalent!
I know I am not supposed to mess up the spring assembly for the seal but I wonder if it is even required anymore? The modern bearings I have access to are pre lubed and sealed as a unit already. Since I have yet to take it apart it may become obvious when it is actually apart.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 28 Jul 2020 at 4:39pm |
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Allis seals were a spring loaded boot affair, keep lube in dirt out, spring load kept pressure on running faces that oozed a bit of lube to keep lubricated enough not to gall. No one makes a replacement.
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krusty
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Joined: 09 Jan 2012
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Posted: 28 Jul 2020 at 4:53pm |
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Indeed. I am aware of the allis seals but alas, there is obvious bearing wear and I suspect the seals in there are no longer functional. I will grab the bearings I guess from the store and 2 regular seals per side and go from there at least while the guy is here.
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gemdozer
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
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Posted: 28 Jul 2020 at 7:12pm |
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I am still have some idler ring seals and bellow seals but no more bearings
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krusty
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Posted: 29 Jul 2020 at 5:45pm |
Had to reprime the fuel system. Last time I had it running at the dude's place there was a 1/4 tank of fuel. Not sure if it leaked out or what! There was none today when I checked it. Still need to make a pin for the lift pump gear but the machine has lots of power. Keep in mind my other functional machine is a JD40C which has hardly any weight to it. iI cant imagine working on an old machine like that for 8+ hours a day.
Right side steers well but the left side wont lock up. Will look into adjustments this eve after dark with a frosty cold one in hand.
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gemdozer
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Posted: 29 Jul 2020 at 8:10pm |
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You could check your motor oil if he is overfull by fuel or maybe the fuel line is leaking in pan maybe full dirt
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JohnColo
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Joined: 03 Apr 2020
Location: Niwot, CO
Points: 1258
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Posted: 01 Aug 2020 at 10:22pm |
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Or perhaps someone decided they needed a quarter tank of fuel...
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krusty
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Joined: 09 Jan 2012
Points: 60
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Posted: 03 Aug 2020 at 2:25pm |
You know, the fuel is not in the oil. There was no obvious 10 gallons of diesel underneath the machine. Anyways it is bled and am now very pleased how quick it starts. The injector pump has a slight trickle at one bolt and will get a new washer for it shortly. It does not cause me concern. The left side clutch will not disengage. I have rebuilt both sides of my JD40C and have a general idea how these work. Played with the adjustment and it just wont release. Does not even feel right. The is far too much water in there so I suspect it is rusted up. http://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/HD5HD6STEERINGCLUTCH_wm.pdflooks to be a reprint for the clutch service manual. for any of you guys who have taken it out before does it really come out the top like that magically? Man that would be great if it did. On my old JD you have to take the final drive housing off which can be a pain. If I can just lift this clutch assembly out I can determine where it is binding and get new fiber disks if needed. Am still very pleased with the machine so far. Also need to figure out the shift pattern 
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AC Mel
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Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Location: N.Ca.
Points: 1101
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Posted: 03 Aug 2020 at 10:55pm |
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Yes....I'm here to tell you....the only way you will get that out....is through the top. But sometimes it's not quite magically getting it loose first ..to come out the top. Your earlier posts indicate to me you might have some trouble getting it loose from the flanges. But keep us posted.
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krusty
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Joined: 09 Jan 2012
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Posted: 13 Aug 2020 at 9:45am |
A little pin pressing video....
Edited by krusty - 13 Aug 2020 at 9:46am
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krusty
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Posted: 13 Nov 2020 at 9:38am |
had some spare time yesterday so I took the front idler wheel off. one side had been welded to the track frame. buddy said a front bearing was shot but the bearing is fine, its the shaft that is bent! wonder how they were able to do something like that. should be able to turn a new one in short order thankfully. will take it apart tomorrow. the track adjuster is the hydraulic type. wondering if I should take it apart and clean it and put a new seal in while it is all apart? I put grease into it and it seemed to work fine as is. maybe I have answered my own question in my mind, new seal while it is apart.
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krusty
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Posted: 17 Nov 2020 at 9:47am |
Got the idler apart and indeed the shaft is very bent. All I could imagine is that one side being welded to the track frame and the other side free. Someone must have tried to tighten the track and bent it. Am surprised more was not damaged but the bearings inside are fine. I did break one seal and think someone said they may have a replacement. The spring mechanism is fine. Will hopefully get a new shaft turned this week unless someone out here has a used one!
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