HD6G main clutch, dry type cost

Looking at buying a semi-derelict machine. I'd like to ask if anyone has changed one of these clutches recently, and how much was the parts cost. Labor I will do myself. Please mention the source of the parts. Serial number of the machine is 10xxx. Thanks

Thanks Hector. I'm pretty sure the guy who is selling it knows about the clutch adjustment, as he's had it a long time. I'll keep you in mind when I get it tore down. Good thing is, all the undercarriage is in great shape. 

I just did my HD6G last October, there are two types of clutch disc options I don’t recall what I paid . Ended up having to replace all the springs also . They crumbled , also had to order a new used clutch housing mine was cracked in many spots . I have the card of who i ordered from but don’t know off the top of my head

No just lost a bunch of money on it. Selling for three grand or best offer , I did a ton of work then spun a bearing and I don’t have a place to pull the engine so if you need a great parts machine I have one in iowa. New starter, alternator, fluids , batteries

gemdozer wrote: The hd6 use a AUBURN and ROCKFORD master cluch, the AUBURN  have for adjustement cluch with small teeths  on ring and have 6 link adjusting lever and the ROCKFORD   have a ring adjusting with big nutch and have 3 big camshaft.

Can you tell from this picture?

This cluch  what I can see is AUBURN cluch.

Sourcing the friction disc should be no problem , on my HD5 I uses a local supplier that just sold Automotive clutches , and Truck clutches , driveshafts , U Joints . 
 I put in a bi-metal (ceramic friction disc) that was easily sourced through them . The disc I had put in earlier (years back)  was the same disc as used in IH L190 truck with Black diamond engine .
 The brass sleve (bushing) that sets in the shift yoke I had to make as could not find the part so using a brass stock I turned a new one .
 The bushing wears out from leaving the engine running with clutch disengaged - rather than putting the transmission in neutral and engaging the clutch so input shaft turns with clutch disc . Not mentioned in owners manual ! 
  Rear housng is same as HD5 with shims to set pinion depth into ring gear , but side movement of the ring gear is also set with shims on side gear bearings .

Edited by Coke-in-MN - 13 Sep 2022 at 6:50pm

Yes you can use a jack to loosed the nose

One step forward, one step back. The idiots who left the inspection cover off of the clutch housing, allowing water to accumulate there, left me with 3 clutch cover bolts whose heads are rusted to appx. 1/2 inch size. If I can't get something to grip on them, I'll be stuck with grinding the heads off of them, then drilling out and tapping 4 bolt holes, all the while resembling nothing more than a giraffe trying to dress in a phone booth. Decided to wait till daylight and consider my options, and took up the BFH and keep working on the tracks, which I have freed up the entire topside. Also bought a RB-A'dMFH (use your imagination) for when the BFH can't hack it. 

Codger wrote: doctorcorey wrote: One step forward, one step back. The idiots who left the inspection cover off of the clutch housing, allowing water to accumulate there, left me with 3 clutch cover bolts whose heads are rusted to appx. 1/2 inch size. If I can't get something to grip on them, I'll be stuck with grinding the heads off of them, then drilling out and tapping 4 bolt holes, all the while resembling nothing more than a giraffe trying to dress in a phone booth. Decided to wait till daylight and consider my options, and took up the BFH and keep working on the tracks, which I have freed up the entire topside. Also bought a RB-A'dMFH (use your imagination) for when the BFH can't hack it.  If you have a mig machine grind the bolt heads flat and shiny, but don't remove much material. Mig weld a grade 8 hex nut to the bolt head with the heat turned up just a bit. Fill the threaded area of the nut complete. After allowing to cool about a minute the fastener will usually easily remove. If it snaps off, repeat the process.  I seen your tracks were tight in your first photo post. Most times they break free with slow movement of the tractor but extremely rusted tracks can break things so best to start off slow and not force destruction.

  I do have mig. I might have to make a LONG extension cord. I'm a decent welder but doing it upside down may be interesting. There's not much side clearance or I could weld a pretty large nut on them. I've just used jacks, hammers, and a big steel bar on the tracks. 

Codger wrote: A "swan neck" mig gun is your friend in this type scenario. When you mention "clutch cover" I assume you are referencing the pressure plate for the main clutch and have seen several instances where the capscrews are recessed into the cover stamping with little side clearance to the fasteners. In this type atmosphere use a die grinder and carbide burr to clean the head of the fastener to weld to. Just make sure you weld the existing fastener to the new nut and not the nut to the fastener as you want to drive the heat into the fastener.  I've had tracks so tight it's taken a torch, tractor weight, and a lot of patience to get them broken free to rotate.

I used my air file to shine up the top of the bolt heads. I think I may use my mig tomorrow to build up material on the top, grind it flat, then (assuming I can't turn them with vice grips, weld a large, thin nut to them. That will give me more room for error, and more welding surface. After I get this clutch off, I'm going to fire her up and use the boom to lift the front of the tractor so I can see how the bottom tracks move. They had been doused with a lot of waste oil before I got it. 

I have been into clutch 3 times and last time I went to button clutch - other times it was fabric friction disc . 
 Last time I had a problem was when one of the 3 arms broke and fell into housing , had another clutch core to replace the arm and a long flex tool and magnet to fish the old part out .
  The button clutch works good but there is no slipping clutch - in or out - 
Be sure to check that brass bushing in the sliding clutch collar for wear as it's important in how clutch engages .